Mexico’s dazzling capital of 22 million people and easily one of my favourite cities in the world, Mexico City is a dynamic fusion of Indigenous heritage, Spanish colonial history, and modern Mexican identity expressed through food, art, architecture, and a kaleidoscope of neighbourhoods. Even after 6 weeks spent exploring its chaotic charm, I’m still discovering new pockets of magic, bold new flavours, and unexpected favourites each time I return!
This PACKED 5-day itinerary is designed to show off the very best of Mexico City— an irresistible blend of ancient ruins and speakeasy cocktail bars, street tacos and award-winning fusion dining, surrealist art and leafy parks, epic day trips, and a mouth-watering introduction to some of Mexico’s oldest traditions. Each day focuses on 1–2 standout neighbourhoods, with thoughtfully curated experiences based on a LOT of time spent roaming from Roma Norte to Coyoacán!
Mexico City trip logistics
Best time to visit
Mexico City is a year-round destination thanks to its mild climate and high altitude (2,240m), but the dry season from November to April offers the clearest skies and most comfortable temperatures for sightseeing.
How many days in Mexico City
5 days is enough to fall in love with the city, but you could easily spend weeks/years here without running out of things to do! This itinerary is packed with the all essential highlights, best cultural experiences, and my favourite hidden gems to make the most of a short trip.
Getting around
Uber is widely available and very affordable in Mexico City— most rides within the city cost a few dollars, and even to more distant spots (like Xochimilco, which is about 1hr away from Roma Norte), you can expect to pay ~$30USD.
Where to stay
I’ve stayed in a few different parts of the city over several visits, and Roma Norte is my absolute favourite— trendy, walkable, perfectly located, and packed with amazing restaurants, cafes, and bars. Other good options: nearby Condesa is a bit quieter and leafier; Juárez has a boutique vibe; and Polanco is more upscale and closer to museums and fine dining.
Mexico SIM card
Purchase and install a Mexico eSIM before you arrive for instant mobile data upon landing. It’s the easiest way to access maps, Ubers, and restaurant bookings while you’re out exploring!
Detailed 5-day Mexico City itinerary
Follow this exact 5-day itinerary for a perfect introduction to Ciudad de México (CDMX), stretch it over more days for a relaxed approach, or even pick and choose your favourite experiences for a unique visit— however you explore, prepare to fall head over heals in love with magical Mexico City!
- Day 1: Centro Histórico, Chapultepec & Polanco
- Day 2: Coyoacán, Xochimilco & lucha libre
- Day 3: Roma Norte & Juárez
- Day 4: Teotihuacán & intro to mezcal
- Day 5: day trip to Grutas Tolantongo
Day 1: Centro Histórico, Chapultepec & Polanco
Your first day in Mexico City is an essential line-up of the city’s most iconic experiences, perfectly arranged to make a big first impression:
- explore the beautiful Centro Histórico (historic centre) on walking tour
- fuel up on classic street tacos at one of the best taquerías in the city
- wander the lush expanse of Bosque de Chapultepec, CDMX’s sprawling city park
- deep-dive into the most comprehensive museum of Mesoamerican history in the world, the National Anthropology Museum
- cap it off with an elevated Mexican dinner in Polanco and cocktails at one of the top bars in the world
⚠️ Re-arrange the order of this 5-day itinerary as needed! Museo Nacional de Antropología is closed on Mondays.
Walking tour in Centro Histórico (10am-12pm)
Start your morning with a walking tour of the historic centre to get your bearings and dive into Mexico City’s vibrant history. Most tours run daily from 10am–12pm and cover highlights like the Zócalo, Templo Mayor, and other grand colonial buildings around the centre— you’ll get a much deeper appreciation for the city’s layers (literally, with the Catedral Metropolitana built directly on top of the ruins of an Aztec temple!).
Lunch in Centro (12-1pm)
After your walking tour, make a beeline to Taquería El Torito for some of the best tacos in the city! This unassuming hole-in-the-wall is usually standing room only, cranking out hot tacos right in front of a quick-moving line of locals.
I highly recommend the suadero (tender, slow-cooked beef), topped with onion, cilantro, lime, and colourful salsa for a classic chilango street taco experience. Tacos are just 25p (barely over $1USD) and are made fresh to order in a few minutes; 3-5 tacos should be enough for most people!
🌮 CHILANGO TACO CULTURE
The term chilango refers to anything or anyone from Mexico City, and nowhere is that local identity more deliciously expressed than in taco culture— tacos aren’t just a cheap meal here, they’re part of the rich culinary and cultural fabric of Mexico City, and the best taqueros approach the preparation of meat, hand-pressed corn tortillas, and flavourful salsas like a sacred art!
Distinct from street tacos in other parts of Mexico, chilango tacos tend to be super small, doubled-up corn tortillas (for extra support and flavour!), filled with flavourful meats like al pastor (marinated pork cooked on a rotating vertical spit) or suadero (tender beef cooked in its own fats and juices), and topped with simple, fresh ingredients like thinly diced white onion, cilantro, lime, and colourful salsa.
Some of the best places to appreciate the classic chilango street taco: Taquería El Torito (above); Taquería El Califa de León (the only taco stand with a Michelin star); Tacos Los Güeros (amazing al pastor); Los Cocuyos (featured on Netflix’s Taco Chronicles; try the suadero and cabeza); and El Vilsito (also on Taco Chronicles for their epic al pastor).
Make sure to save room for a cheeky dessert at Churrería El Moro, an iconic Mexico City institution that’s been serving up sugar-dusted churros since 1935. Introduced to Mexico by Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century, churros have become a beloved local staple— and this is hands down my favourite place in the city to try one fresh from the fryer.
The location closest to Taqueria El Torito is the 1935 original, but El Moro has more than a dozen shops across CDMX, including locations in Polanco, Roma Norte, and Condesa right next to other bars/restaurants I’ve recommended on this itinerary; make sure you visit at least once before you leave. Their churro ice cream sandwiches (served as 3 mini churros stuffed with vanilla, strawberry, and chocolate ice cream) are my go-to order!
Bosque de Chapultepec (1-2pm)
After lunch (and dessert), grab an Uber to Bosque de Chapultepec, a sprawling green space that feels like the lungs of the city— the Mexican version of Central Park in NYC or Hyde Park in Sydney. Covering more than 1,600 acres, it’s one of the largest urban parks in the world and home to 9 museums, an amusement park, and botanical gardens, as well as countless lakes, fountains, and monuments!
Whether you’re in the mood for a lazy stroll, a paddleboat ride on the lake, or just some good people-watching, Chapultepec is local favourite sure to impress! Street vendors line the walkways, selling snacks, toys, and souvenirs, and there are dozens of shaded trails and quiet corners to explore along the way.
Museo Nacional de Antropología (2-6pm)
Located inside Bosque de Chapultepec (in the NW corner near Polanco), the Museo Nacional de Antropología (National Anthropology Museum) houses the most comprehensive collection of pre-Columbian and Mesoamerican artefacts in the world, alongside compelling exhibits on modern Indigenous Mexican culture, tradition, and art.
This is easily one of the best museums I’ve visited anywhere in the world, and if you have even the smallest interest in human history, ancient civilisations, or Mexican culture, this is a MUST! Highlights include the Aztec Sun Stone, colossal Olmec heads, reconstructed Maya tombs, and entire ceremonial platforms and temples.
The museum is enormous, and if you’re the type to read every placard, you could easily spend a full day here— at a minimum, aim to arrive around 2pm so you’ll have enough time to explore most of the 23 rooms before the museum closes at 6pm. Entry costs around 100p ($5USD) and I’d recommend buying tickets online to avoid lines at the entrance.
Dinner & drinks in Polanco (7-10pm)
After the museum closes at 6pm, stroll along Paseo de la Reforma, one of the city’s largest and most important avenues, to connect with the heart of Polanco in about 20min.
A polished contrast to the chaos and vintage charm of Centro Histórico, Polanco is known for its elegant streets, luxury boutiques, high-end galleries, and some of the best restaurants in all of Latin America. Enjoy your first dinner in CDMX at one of my two favourite spots:
- Comedor Jacinta is a beautiful restaurant with excellent traditional Mexican dishes, a warm neighbourhood vibe, and indoor/outdoor seating. It’s Michelin-recommended as one of the best-value culinary experiences in the city and I reckon it totally lives up!
- Rosa Negra is more of a splurge (but still a fraction of what you’d pay for a comparable meal in Europe or N America), and an instant add to my list of “best meals in my entire life”— no joke, I’ve kept this list for nearly a decade and it’s got fewer than 20 entries, so you know this spot is good! I’d specifically recommend the bone marrow tacos and rack of lamb with sweet potato.
After dinner, head to Licorería Limantour for a few drinks. Currently #32 on the World’s Best Bars, the Polanco location of this award-winning cocktail bar is just a 3–5min walk from either restaurant. Be sure to try some of their experimental mezcal cocktails, these were my favourites!
Day 2: Coyoacán, Xochimilco & lucha libre
Day 2 delivers just as much wow-factor as the first, but with a deeper dive into the city’s cultural heart and some of the best local traditions:
- visit the iconic Frida Kahlo Museum to learn more about one of Mexico’s most prolific artists
- explore the colourful, bohemian neighbourhood of Coyoacán & its lively market
- cruise ancient Aztec canals on a traditional trajinera (wooden gondola) in Xochimilco
- grab dinner at a cult-favourite taquería or a trendy craft brewery in Colonia Roma
- witness the high-energy spectacle of lucha libre (Mexican wrestling)
- try pulque, a fermented agave drink with more than 2,000 years of history, at the coolest pulquerías in the city
⚠️ Re-arrange the order of this 4-day itinerary as needed! Considering the weekly schedule of relevant attractions and events (Museo Frida Kahlo is closed on Mon; Xochimilco and Pulquería Los Insurgentes are most lively on the weekend; lucha libra takes place on Tues, Fri, Sun), “Day 2” is best followed on a Sunday (1st choice), Friday, or Tuesday.
Museo Frida Kahlo (10am-12pm)
Start your day with a visit to Casa Azul, the bright cobalt-blue house where Frida Kahlo, one of Mexico’s most prolific and beloved artists, was born, lived, worked, and eventually died. Today, it’s one of the most visited museums in the country, housing original paintings and sketches, personal artefacts, traditional clothing, and the famous custom corsets Frida wore to manage her pain and physical injuries.
The museum offers an intimate glimpse into Frida’s life, art, politics, and physical struggles, all set within the vibrant home she once shared with her husband, Diego Rivera— another of Mexico’s most iconic artists (if you find yourself in Guanajuato, his childhood home has also been converted to a museum displaying a great selection of his work!).
Book tickets online in advance (these DO sell out!); entrance is 320p ($17USD). Do your best to grab the first slot at 10am and allow 2hrs to explore the house, gardens, and exhibitions at a relaxed pace.
Mercado de Coyoacán & lunch (12-2pm)
After your museum visit, take a short walk to Mercado de Coyoacán, a lively local market filled with vibrant produce stalls, handmade crafts, and the smell of sizzling antojitos (street food) wafting through the aisles. It’s a great place to browse for souvenirs or simply take in the sights and smells of Mexican market culture!
For lunch, head to La Cocina de mi Mamá. This cozy, no-frills eatery tucked inside the market serves up hearty, home-style Mexican dishes at incredibly reasonable prices, perfect for a casual, satisfying lunch before the canals.
Be sure to try the chile en nogada, a delicious poblano chile stuffed with picadillo (seasoned ground meat) and covered in a creamy walnut sauce topped with pomegranate seeds. Although it originated in Puebla, it’s considered Mexico’s national dish (the colours are the same as the flag) and it’s undeniably excellent!
Xochimilco canals (3-6pm)
From Coyoacán, grab an Uber about 1hr southeast to Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas, the most popular launch point for exploring the canals of Xochimilco.
From the Nahuatl word meaning ‘garden of flowers’, Xochimilco was once an incredibly vast network of canals, causeways, and floating gardens conceived by the ancient Aztecs as a means of water transit through Lake Texcoco, the massive body of water that once covered the Valley of Mexico.
With the arrival of the Spanish in the 1500s, dams were destroyed to make way for the construction of roads and much of Lake Texcoco ceased to exist— but the canals were preserved and are now considered to be the last remnant of this Aztec marvel.
Today, colourful wooden gondolas called trajineras drift up and down the UNESCO World Heritage-listed canals, full of couples, families, and large groups of friends enjoying what has become an immensely popular weekend outing in Mexico City! And despite being a tourist favourite, Xochimilco has remained incredibly authentic— 99% of the people on passing boats are locals.
Tips for enjoying Xochimilco:
- Prices are government regulated, so there’s no need to negotiate or worry about finding the best deal— last I visited, it was 500 pesos ($25USD) per hour PER BOAT (all boats are private for your group, so grab some friends)
- You don’t need to book anything in advance, nor do you need to book a tour— just show up and someone will approach you to offer their boat!
- Sundays are the liveliest, with mariachi bands, floating food vendors, and locals celebrating everything from birthdays to baptisms; Fridays and Saturdays or public holidays can also be festive
- BYO snacks, drinks, and speaker (I’ve seen locals literally grilling taco meat on a portable stove and nearly everyone has a reggaeton playlist for the occasion); you can also buy cold cervezas, margaritas, and other food from vendors on passing boats
Dinner in Roma Norte (7-8pm)
After Ubering an hour back to Roma Norte, grab dinner at Tacos Orinoco, a beloved local chain with the cult following and near-religious devotion of In-N-Out… but make it Mexican. Think retro vibes, a short and focused menu, cheap prices, and insane flavour!
Originally from Monterrey, Tacos Orinoco now has several CDMX locations and their trompo tacos (the norteño term for tacos al pastor) are out of this world— if you haven’t had al pastor tacos (marinated pork cooked on a rotating vertical spit), prepare to have your mind blown. I’d recommend the gringa de trompo (a large, cheese-filled flour tortilla with all the usual taco fillings)!
Or, if you want something a little different, I highly recommend grabbing dinner and drinks at Lagerbar Hércules in Condesa/Roma Sur. The bar is owned by Cervecería Hércules, a phenomenal craft brewery in Querétaro that’s churning out some of the best and most inventive beer in all of Mexico.
Since stumbling across the brewery on my first 6-month road trip through Mexico and becoming friends with the owners, I love visiting the Lagerbar every time I’m in the CDMX— they’ve got truly excellent beer, an inventive menu del día, and the perfect chilled-out, leafy patio for hanging out in the afternoons.
Lucha Libre at Arena México (8-10pm)
Head next to a lucha libre match at Arena México, the legendary home of Mexican wrestling. Matches take place on Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday nights, featuring masked fighters (called luchadores) performing acrobatic stunts, elaborate entrances, and dramatic storylines that blur the line between sport and theatre. Grab a beer, join the rowdy crowd, and lean into the chaos!
Lucha libre dates back to the early 20th century and has become one of Mexico’s most beloved traditions, celebrated for its flamboyant costumes, over-the-top personas, and heroic underdog narratives. The fanfare is absolutely hilarious and you’re guaranteed to enjoy the performances, no previous interest in wrestling required.
Purchase tickets online through Ticketmaster or directly at the Arena México box office (show up a bit early on the night of); tickets typically range from 100–300p ($5-15USD). I recommend staying for ~2hrs— there are several bouts throughout the evening, so just hang out until you’ve had your fill of flying body slams!
Late night pulque (10pm-12am)
After the wild spectacle of lucha libre, wind down your evening with another essential Mexico City experience: pulque. My favourite spot to sip this ancient beverage is Pulquería Los Insurgentes, a lively three-level bar (and super local hang-out) a quick 20min walk from Arena México.
Each floor offers a totally different vibe, usually with a live band playing downstairs, a sweaty reggaeton dance floor on the middle level, and a more laid-back rooftop scene upstairs. It’s most popular with 25-45yo locals, always buzzing, and serves up a rotating menu of flavours (curado = flavoured pulque) that range from classic to creative: tamarindo (tart/sweet tamarind pods), apio (celery), and jamaica (hibiscus) often make an appearance, and all are excellent!
I know it’s about to sound a bit weird, but PLEASE stick with me… pulque is incredible and all of the dozen-some people I’ve taken to this pulquería over the years have really enjoyed it, either because they genuinely loved the drinks or because they agreed the overall experience was worth it!
🥛 PULQUE: ONE OF THE WORLD’S OLDEST ALCOHOLIC DRINKS
Consumed in central Mexico for over 2,000 years, pulque is traditional alcoholic beverage made the fermented sap of the agave plant. It’s often considered the ancient precursor to tequila (which is made from the piña, or the heart, of the agave plant), but it’s closer in taste/texture to beer and kombucha— slightly thick, lightly effervescent, and low in alcohol.
Because the natural sugars begin fermenting within hours of harvest, pulque doesn’t travel well and must be served fresh— meaning it remains a hyper-local tradition that can’t be bottled, distributed, or mass-produced. The places where it’s served (unpretentious pulquerías where you can get enormous cups or even jugs for a few dollars) are all part of the charm!
In pre-Hispanic times (as far back as 200CE), pulque was known as the “nectar of the gods”, a sacred drink reserved for emperors, priests, and those about to be sacrificed; but with the fall of the Aztec empire and the arrival of the Spanish, it lost much of its mystique and was relegated to the status of a “common man’s drink”. For centuries, pulquerías dwindled, and the tradition nearly disappeared altogether.
In recent decades, though, pulque has experienced a powerful revival among a new generation of Mexicans, especially with flavoured pulque (curado) offering a more approachable beverage. To me, pulque represents exactly what makes Mexico so captivating: an everyday beverage with a 2,000-year backstory, steeped in ritual, legend, and cultural pride. AND I think it’s crazy delicious (though, admittedly, a bit of an acquired taste).
You’ll rarely find pulque outside of central Mexico (it’s also popular in Puebla, Tlaxcala, and Hidalgo), but CDMX certainly has the largest number of thriving pulquerías, so make it a priority to try while you’re here!
Aside from Pulquería Los Insurgentes in Roma Norte, I also love Pulquería Las Duelistas in Centro (you’ll be close to this on Day 1 at Taquería El Torito and again on Day 3 at Masala y Maíz). Las Duelistas is set in a cramped, colourful room covered wall-to-ceiling in murals, and you are guaranteed to be the only gringo here.
Prices are excellent ($2USD for a glass of pulque curado in daily flavours), everything is fresh, and (if you speak even a little Spanish) you’ll probably make some new friends who are wondering how on earth you found out about it! I love this spot and I’ve visited alone after dark, so it’s very safe 🙂
Day 3: Roma Norte & Juárez
Today is all about CDMX’s modern face, from trendy cafes and fusion food to photogenic streets and some of the best cocktail bars in the world:
- wander the leafy streets and trendy boutiques of Roma Norte
- discover a mind-blowing fusion of Mexican, Indian, and African flavours at Masala y Maíz
- explore Juárez, another of the coolest neighbourhoods in CDMX
- hop between award-winning cocktail bars from Juárez back to Roma Norte
- enjoy dinner at one of the city’s impressive Michelin-recommended restaurants
⚠️ Re-arrange the order of this 4-day itinerary as needed! Masala y Maíz is closed on Tues; Hanky Panky is closed Mon; Expendio de Maíz closes at 6pm on Tues/Wed/Thurs/Sun, 8:30pm on Fri/Sat, and is completely closed Mon. For easier bookings, “Day 3” is best followed mid-week (Wed-Fri), but also works on the weekends if you’re prepared to reserve early.
Explore Roma Norte (10am-1pm)
Roma Norte is CDMX’s trendiest neighbourhood, a leafy and walkable area filled with Art Deco architecture, indie boutiques, third-wave coffee, and some of the best breakfast spots in the city. Spend a few leisurely hours soaking up the vibe, hopping between shops and cafés, and exploring on foot.
Start with breakfast or coffee at:
- Panadería Rosetta: iconic bakery from one of Mexico’s most renowned chefs; the guava danish is legendary
- Romaquil: cafe specialising in chilaquiles (my all-time favourite Mexican breakfast dish of fried tortilla bits/corn chips bathed in sauce and topped with cheese, onion, cilantro, and crema— like saucy nachos, but for breakfast!)
- Cuina: brunch favourites and bakery excellence in an airy cafe built around a large tree
Then wander along these beautiful streets:
- Colima Street: one of Roma’s most photogenic streets, lined with cafés, high-end boutiques, and old mansions
- Álvaro Obregón Avenue: a lively boulevard with a wide, tree-shaded median and heaps of restaurants, bookshops, and markets
- Plaza Río de Janeiro: a peaceful green square with a replica of Michelangelo’s David, great for sitting and soaking in the local life
Stop into some local favourites:
- Loose Blues: boutique fashion store with records, vintage clothes, and a cool bar/café upstairs
- Librería El Péndulo: half bookstore, half café with leafy balconies and a fantastic ambiance for browsing or catching up on emails
- Cafebrería Rosario Castellanos (in Casa Lamm): a lovely historic mansion turned cultural centre, with a gorgeous bookshop and café
- Mercado Roma: an upscale food hall with stalls from some of the city’s best chefs and producers
Lunch at Masala y Maíz (1-2pm)
Make your way to neighbouring Juárez for a late lunch at Masala y Maíz, a spectacular fusion restaurant blending Mexican, Indian, and East African flavours for some of the city’s most stand-out dining. I’d highly recommend the paratha quesadilla, pipián paneer (an epic marriage between Puebla’s signature green mole, curry spices, and milk-curd cheese popular in vegetarian Indian dishes), and the camarones pa’pelar (shrimp cooked in chile-spiced vanilla ghee).
This Michelin-recommended spot is often booked out, so make a reservation in advance (closed Tuesdays).
Explore Juárez (2-4pm)
After lunch, continue exploring Juárez, one of the most photogenic and interesting neighbourhoods that blends historic mansions with trendy cafés, art galleries, and boutique shops.
Once part of CDMX’s aristocratic district, Juárez now has a creative, bohemian vibe with quiet side streets, leafy boulevards, and some of the city’s best people-watching. It’s the perfect place to walk off lunch and stumble upon unexpected gems!
Cocktail bar crawl & dinner from Juárez to Roma Norte (4-11pm)
Mexico City has quietly emerged as one of the world’s most exciting culinary and cocktail destinations. After many nights of research (tough job, I know), I’ve crafted a custom cocktail crawl that links four of the city’s best bars, starting in Juárez and winding back into Roma Norte— with no more than a 15min walk between each stop. I’ve done this solo and felt totally safe walking between venues at night, so just don’t get black-out and you’ll be right!
If you’re into elevated mixology and creative drinks, here’s the ultimate route:
1 | Hanky Panky (Juárez)
Begin at this hidden speakeasy disguised behind a fake taco shop entrance— currently ranked #93 on the World’s Best Bars list! The dimly lit interior, leather seating, and inventive cocktails set the tone for a stylish night out. (reservations required)
2 | Handshake Speakeasy (Juárez)
Ranked #1 in the world two years in a row, this sleek, black-and-gold bar limits its guest count to keep the vibe intimate. Expect bold experimentation on the menu— standouts for me were the mezcal negroni, matcha yuzu, and a completely reinvented piña colada. (reservations required)
3 | GinGin (Condesa)
Fun and lively, this trendy spot focuses on gin in all its many magnificent cocktail iterations. There are a few GinGin locations in CDMX, but head specifically to the Condesa bar and prepare to re-discover a love for G&T, negroni, bees knees, and other classic gin cocktails with an inventive twist. (walk-ins welcome)
Dinner stop | Migrante or Expendio de Maíz sin Nombre (Roma Norte)
Both of these are Michelin-recommended restaurants, but with very different experiences: Migrante is a modern fine-dining fusion of Asian and Mexican flavours, while Expendio de Maíz takes a more experimental, no-menu approach— serving an ever-changing stream of elevated Mexican dishes to communal tables until everyone’s full.
(Note: Migrante is open until 11pm daily; Expendio closes at 6pm on Tues/Wed/Thurs/Sun, 8:30pm on Fri/Sat, and is closed Mondays)
4 | Baltra Bar (edge of Condesa and Roma Norte)
End your night with a final cocktail at Baltra, currently ranked #83 in the world. Their weekly rotating menu always brings something creative and delicious to the table, and I really loved the indoor-outdoor seating, perfect for a more casual final stop of the night. (walk-ins welcome)
Day 4: Teotihuacán & intro to mezcal
This final day takes you beyond Mexico City to marvel at ancient pyramids before returning to the city for an immersive culinary journey through Oaxaca to experience iconic Mexican flavours:
- watch sunrise from a hot air balloon over Teotihuacán
- walk through the ruins of Teotihuacán, home to some of Mexico’s most iconic ancient pyramids
- return to Roma Norte for a mezcal & mole tasting, the perfect intro to Oaxaca’s rich culinary heritage
- dinner at Oaxaquito Roma, a casual Oaxacan restaurant serving classic flavour-forward dishes
- finish the night with incredible mezcal at Tlecān, #20 best bar in the world
⚠️ Re-arrange the order of this 4-day itinerary as needed! If you plan on enjoying the cocktail crawl above AND the sunrise hot air ballon below, consider swapping Day 3 and Day 4 so you’re not waking up crazy early after a late night on the town.
Sunrise balloon ride over Teotihuacán (5-8am)
If you’re up for a truly unforgettable experience, start your day with a hot air balloon ride over Teotihuacán, floating above the Pyramid of the Sun and Avenue of the Dead as the first light hits the ruins. It’s genuinely magical and also one of the most affordable balloon rides in the world!
Most balloon tours include:
- Hotel pickup (around 4.30–5am)
- A light breakfast
- The balloon flight (sunrise)
- A short ground tour of Teotihuacán
- Return transport to Mexico City (around 1-3pm)
You can also drive yourself if you’re picking up a rental car for adventures outside the city— Teotihuacán is just 1.5hrs from CDMX and there’s parking near the balloon launch site. I’ve driven this route personally and I found it totally straightforward, especially with minimal traffic leaving the city at 5am. Either way, book your flight at least 3–5 days in advance to guarantee a spot!
Explore Teotihuacán on foot (9am-12pm)
Whether or not you do the sunrise balloon, you’ll definitely want to explore Teotihuacán on the ground! This ancient Mesoamerican city was once one of the largest in the world, and walking down the Avenue of the Dead, climbing the Pyramid of the Moon, and admiring well-preserved murals offers a deeper appreciation of its grandeur.
How to visit Teotihuacán:
- Independent visit: Entry is just 90 pesos (~$4.50USD) and the site is easy to explore on your own. Note that most balloon tours from Mexico City will allow time for you to explore Teotihuacán, but they may not include the entrance fee or a guide, so you’ll need to pay entry separately.
- Guided tours (without balloon): Most half-day tours depart the city between 8–9am, include round-trip transport, entry fees, and a certified guide, and return to Mexico City by mid-afternoon— perfect if you want a more in-depth historical experience without the balloon flight. Expect to pay around $35–60USD per person, depending on group size and inclusions.
Mezcal & mole tasting (3-4.30pm)
Although Oaxaca is mezcal’s heartland, CDMX offers many excellent opportunities to fall in love with this distinctly Mexican spirit. Back in the city after Teotihuacán, book a mezcal & mole tasting with Daniel on Airbnb— he’s a certified sommelier who’s been running these intimate tastings for years, pairing Oaxaca’s 7 traditional moles with 7 different mezcal varietals. Tasting side-by-side, you’ll deepen your appreciation for both, discovering how wildly diverse agave spirits can be and how complex (and underrated) mole truly is!
I did this same experience with Daniel in Oaxaca and it was so outstanding that I’ve since gifted it to several friends and family members. Even my mum, who swore she didn’t like mezcal, came away raving that it was one of the best tastings she’d ever done!
There are several seatings throughout the day, but 3-4.30pm works best with this itinerary. Expect to leave full, tipsy, and dreaming of your next trip to Oaxaca.
🥃 MEZCAL: SO MUCH MORE THAN JUST “SMOKY TEQUILA”
Like many, I once thought of mezcal as “smoky tequila”. In reality, tequila is a type of mezcal (not the other way around), but the comparison pretty much ends there. While tequila is made exclusively from mass-farmed blue agave, mezcal can be produced from hundreds of different agave varieties— 190 of which grow WILD in the rugged mountains of Oaxaca, maturing for 10-25 years before harvest. And where tequila production was industrialised following the arrival of Spanish conquistadores in the 1500s, mezcal has been crafted by hand using the same traditional methods for more than 2,500 years.
In the villages of rural Oaxaca, where 90% of the world’s mezcal is produced, families have safeguarded this ancestral process for generations. There are no gleaming distilleries or corporate brands— just small backyard palenques where agave is roasted in underground pits for several days, crushed by a horse-drawn stone wheel, fermented in open-air wooden vats, distilled in clay or copper stills, and bottled by hand with deep reverence.
Mezcal isn’t just alcohol— it’s still used in spiritual ceremonies today, from temazcales (Mesoamerican sweat lodges) to Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) offerings, and even when sipped for pure enjoyment, it’s always done with a bit of reverence.
Each batch reflects the agave species, soil, altitude, and traditions of the family who made it— there’s no standard recipe and no shortcut to the deep knowledge required. The result is a stunning range of flavours, from citrusy to earthy, floral to herbaceous. Every sip is a window into rural Mexico, into generations of craftsmanship, and into a sacred tradition that remains alive and thriving.
Some essential mezcal knowledge for your tasting today:
- Espadín is the only widely farmed agave and the most common variety available outside Mexico. It’s approachable, but not the most exciting— better for mixing cocktails than sipping.
- Wild agave, on the other hand, must be enjoyed straight! My favourite wild agaves include tepextate (also spelled tepeztate), madrecuishe, and mexicano. Of these, tepextate is the slowest to mature (25 years!) and one of the hardest to distill— it takes 25kg of agave just to make 1L of mezcal. It has the most beautiful, complex flavour profile and I LOVE the dedication it represents.
- Many of the bars I’ve recommended here have rotating mezcal menus, so if you spot anything made by Berta Vásquez from San Baltazar Chichicapam, don’t miss it. One of the only mezcaleras (female mezcal producers), Berta makes phenomenal mezcal and I love to support her— several years ago, I drove by a palenque, spoke to some of the family, and ended up spending several hours sitting in Berta’s house, drinking mezcal and listening to her stories. Every time I see her mezcal on a menu, it’s a must 🙂
Oaxacan dinner & mezcal (5-9pm)
Continue the afternoon’s theme with a light dinner at Oaxaquito Roma, a traditional Oaxacan restaurant with exceptional flavours (try the tlayuda and guacamole con chapulines), and then walk about 5min onwards to Tlecān, currently ranked #20 on the World’s Best Bars list.
The mezcals at Tlecān are sourced from tiny producers across Mexico and served in their beautiful, candle-lit venue that just oozes mysticism. Staff are super knowledgeable, so I’d suggest asking for a recommendation for a few different pours and (if travelling with friends or a partner) sharing amongst yourselves! No bookings needed.
Day 5: day trip to Grutas Tolantongo
The final day on this Mexico City itinerary is another day trip, but for something totally different: hot springs! While I really think Grutas Tolantongo deserves 2 days/2 nights, if you don’t have a rental car or adequate time in your itinerary, a single day is still worthwhile.
Tucked into Mezquital Canyon in the state of Hidalgo, Grutas Tolantongo is a surreal hot spring paradise just 3.5 hours from Mexico City. This community-owned resort is built around the milky-blue Tolantongo River, where mineral-rich water flows year-round at a dreamy 25–35°C (75–95°F). It’s an absolutely mesmerising location where travertine pools cling to the cliffside and water pours out of natural caves, all against the backdrop of dramatic mountains.
The resort is HUGE and made up of three main areas:
- Pozas Termales (Hot Pools): There are nearly 100 different pools, all varying in size and temperature, built into the cliffs around the resort. The most famous are the brilliant white travertine pools hanging over the canyon, but there are countless others to explore, many of which are far less busy.
- Río (Hot River): The turquoise Río Tolantongo is delightfully warm and a fantastic place to float, swim, or relax (you can even camp for free along its shores).
- Gruta & Túnel (Cave & Tunnel): An enormous karst cave— the resort’s namesake— is located at the opposite end from the pools and is easily one of the most impressive natural features. Hot water pours from the ceiling, fills several chambers, surges through a steamy tunnel, and sparkles as it runs down the moss-covered canyon walls.
Small group tours depart CDMX as early as 4:30am, allowing you to spend the full day exploring and relaxing at Tolantongo before returning to the city in the evening. These tours start at $100USD per person, and they’re an awesome way to squeeze this unforgettable spot into your itinerary.
If you’re hiring a car for a Mexico road trip, though, definitely drive yourself and plan to stay 2 nights at the on-site hotel or camping along the river!
Mexico City itinerary extensions
- With a full week? Spend a lazy day in Condesa or San Ángel, check out Museo Tamayo and Museo Jumex for contemporary art, or dive into the foodie scene in Narvarte. You can also spread out this itinerary for a slower pace!
- Visiting in February? Head to Reserva de la Biosfera Mariposa Monarca in Michoacán or Estado de México to witness millions of butterflies gathered in the forest ahead of their 5000km migration to Canada— easily one of the most incredible experiences I’ve ever had! It’s possible as a long day trip or overnighter with your own car, or you can join a tour from Mexico City. Read this post for more about the butterflies!
- With 10 days? Continue exploring central Mexico in Oaxaca City (1hr flight) or Puebla City (3hr drive/bus). Both destinations offer incredible food scenes, vibrant colonial architecture, and deep-rooted cultural traditions.
Read more about Mexico
Practical guide to driving in Mexico & road-tripping as a foreigner
30 amazing things to do in San Cristóbal, Chiapas (San Cris travel guide)
Baja vanlife road trip itinerary for 1-3 months (+ driving directions & camping in 2023)
The ultimate road-tripper’s guide to Baja, Mexico
Day of the Dead: how to celebrate Día de Muertos in Oaxaca, México
Sierra Chincua Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary: how to see millions of migrating butterflies in Mexico
