There’s a common fantasy among vanlifers about opening your doors to a private sandy beach and running into crystal clear water while colourful fish leap around you and a local man cracks open a fresh coconut. It’s the kind of easy living that has made vanlife into the instagram sensation it is now, almost all glitz and glamour and hardly any hint of reality. But it is a reality— in Baja, Mexico.

So much of Baja is wild and untouched, and yet it’s surprisingly comfortable to travel through its small towns and along its windy coastal highways as a foreigner— almost every experience a world away from the dangerous version of Mexico plastered across the nightly news. In reality, Baja is the kind of place people return to every year for decades, enchanted by the lifestyle and natural beauty of a coastline that really has no equal in North America.

This is a complete itinerary to exploring Baja in a van or RV, including 16 incredible destinations, what to do in each, driving directions (+ info about military checkpoints), and absolutely everything you need to know to plan the ultimate Baja road trip!

Baja road trip logistics

Best time to visit Baja, Mexico

Baja is a wonderful year-round destination (although the east does get a bit hot during summer), but for the best weather and the best chance to see unique wildlife, you should plan to travel in the winter from December – March.

• Whale shark season in La Paz: October to April
• Grey whale season in Guerrero Negro: January, February & March
• Blue whale season in Loreto: February & March
• Sea turtle hatching season in Todos Santos: December to May
• Humpback whale season in Cabo Pulmo & Los Cabos: January, February & March

Getting to Baja, Mexico

There are 6 ports of entry between California, USA and Baja California, Mexico accessible to public vehicles, with the busiest being San Ysidro (the busiest land border in the entire world!) and the least trafficked being Andrade (about 15min from Yuma, Arizona, although the actual crossing is in California).

I definitely recommend Calexico East/Mexicali II for a quick, hassle-free border crossing into Baja, and this itinerary is specifically designed to start in Mexicali (although it can be adapted to suit any crossing with a little additional driving).

In order to legally cross from the US into Mexico, you’ll need to prepare several important documents:

• Passport
• Proof of Mexican Auto Insurance (read this post for more details: HOW TO GET THE BEST MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE FOR A CONVERTED VAN OR CAMPER)
• Vehicle Registration (original & copy)
• Vehicle Title (copy) or Lien Agreement
• FMM Tourist Card (read this post for more details: A GUIDE TO CROSSING THE BORDER + ALL REQUIRED PERMITS (FMM & TIP)

Note: you do NOT need a TIP Import Permit if you’re ONLY travelling in Baja!

So many people are intimidated by the border crossing and this is what ultimately prevents them from experiencing vanlife in Baja— but it is genuinely not hard! With the proper information and a bit of planning, you’ll be relaxing at the beach with a Tecate in hand before you know it.

Vanlife Baja & Mexico: A guide to crossing the border + all required permits (FMM & TIP)

Driving around Baja, Mexico

Mexican auto insurance

You are legally required to have Mexican auto insurance before crossing the border and, after extensive research, I choose an affordable policy with Baja Bound (which worked in Baja & mainland Mexico).

Spoiler: we had an ACCIDENT in Mexico a few months later and the agents at Baja Bound handled the entire process for us, from speaking to the police, getting insurance information from the other driver, and we didn’t pay a single PESO out of pocket— I truly can’t recommend this company highly enough!

Road conditions on the highway

A good portion of this itinerary involves driving on the highway, and although there used to be dicey stretches (particularly in Baja Norte), I’m pleased to report that all major highways are in excellent shape as of 2022 and driving on the highway in Baja is now fairly straightforward!

The only thing worth noting is just how narrow the roads are, often with no shoulder, so be cautious as large trucks come flying by.

Road conditions in town

One of the bigger challenge of driving a van through Baja is on small town streets, like in Mulegé or Loreto. These street are often cobbled and only wide enough for one car at a time (despite technically being two-way), so proceed with caution or even consider parking slightly outside of town and walking in to avoid hitting your side mirrors on the side of buildings, as we’ve done multiple times.

Google Maps

Although still the best navigation option available, there are A LOT of errors we discovered with Google Maps in Baja, particularly when it comes to one-way streets, which the app doesn’t seem to recognise. Locals are very friendly and will usually wave you back out, but it’s not always easy to turn a van around (as you may know), so be aware of this and don’t blindly trust Google!

Topes

This is perhaps the most boggling feature of Mexican driving and you’ll come to loathe them with a fierce passion. A tope is essentially a speed bump, but in Mexico, the height and shape of these bumps have absolutely no standards and are placed with WILD abandon throughout town streets, highways, dirt tracks, and basically anywhere you would never expect to find a speed bump.

You’ll only have to hit a few surprise topes to realise how damaging these can be to your van, and for some inexplicable reason, a majority are not painted or signed in any fashion.

Military checkpoints

There are half a dozen military checkpoints located along the length of the Baja Peninsula and you’re likely to hit most of them on this itinerary. For the most part, this is no big deal— you’ll be asked where you’re from and where you’re going, and then the officers will have a look inside your van. For us, this was always super quick (I genuinely questioned the point— if someone were to smuggle weapons or drugs into the country, surely they wouldn’t be hidden under the pillows, but ok).

However, there is always the potential that the officers will swing to the other extreme and spend an hour tearing your van apart, possibly with drug dogs. It’s impossible to say for sure, but I believe having a clean and tidy van makes you less of a target for these wild searches! *The location of military checkpoints are noted within the driving directions below so you can plan ahead.

Driving on the beach in Baja, Mexico

Some of Baja’s best free camping spots are located directly on the beach— it’s a big part of what makes vanlife in Baja so spectacular, but can also be concerning for those (like us!) who have a heavy 2WD van and little experience driving on sand.

Here’s how to make all of your sandy beach camping dreams a reality:

• Invest in all-terrain tires: before travelling to Baja, we swapped our tires for what many consider to be the BEST all-terrain tires on the market (BF Goodrich KO2). Costco & Discount Tire routinely run specials, but even at full price, they are absolutely worth the money and have been invaluable in safely navigating sandy or rocky terrain!

• Travel with an air inflator and pressure gauge: deflating your tires is probably the single best thing you can do to avoid getting stuck on the beach and often lowering the pressure further does more than traction boards OR hours of digging if you do get spun in. We run 65/80psi (front/rear) for standard road driving, but air-down to 30/40psi for sand and have found it makes a huge difference. 

• Walk the route: whenever we arrive at a new beach, we park the van and walk through the sand to check for loose/deep areas that we need to avoid and suss out the best route forward. We know this has saved us from getting stuck several times, since the sand can get deep quickly in areas where it’s not possible to turn around, but often there are alternate routes that we can identify if we take the time to look.

• Chat to other travellers: we always try to introduce ourselves to at least one other camper on the beach, knowing that people will be far more inclined to help us (if we did get stuck) after a friendly conversation than if we just come over as strangers. And as a rule, we never push our limits on a super sandy beach when there are no other cars around!

• Know your limits: the best tires aired down to 20psi still won’t get a 2WD van onto every sandy beach, so knowing when to turn around and find another camp is very important. Typically, there will be easier-access sites a few dozen metres from the beach, and a 30sec walk to the water is much better than spending 2hrs getting your van un-stuck. When that fails, we just head to the next beach— there’s no shortage here in Baja!

Camping in Baja, Mexico

I’ll say it again: Baja has some of the BEST campsites we’ve ever experienced in our van. All your dreams of camping on the sand with the ocean a few steps out your door are totally possible— no 4WD required! Here are some of your options:

RV Parks

• Facilities: electrical hook-ups, dump station, toilets, hot water showers, laundry, WIFI, sometimes even a pool
• Typical cost: 250-800 pesos ($12-40USD)

Established campgrounds

• Facilities: toilets, palapas, occasionally a restaurant (which might offer WIFI for customers)
• Typical cost: 100-300 pesos ($5-15USD)

Boondocking

• Facilities: none
• Typical cost: FREE!

Following this itinerary for 6 weeks, we spent just $24USD on camping. Check out this post to find out how, plus for a downloadable Google Map of every single campsite we personally recommend in Baja!

The ultimate Baja camping guide (+ 35 of the best vanlife & RV campsites!)

Other tips for travelling in Baja Mexico

• Is Baja safe? Generally speaking, Baja is an incredibly safe place to road trip, with well-maintained roads, friendly locals, and accessible services. Travelling in Baja typically is no more dangerous than travelling in the US, and as long as you use common sense and don’t go looking for trouble, you’re unlikely to find it. A good rule is to avoid driving at night and only boondock alone if you’re completely hidden from the road (otherwise find a spot with other travellers!).

• Speak a little Spanish! Although you’ll certainly find some English-speakers in larger cities and tourist areas, much of the peninsula is very remote and the family selling fish tacos on the side of the road or the military personnel at checkpoints won’t speak a single word. A little Spanish goes a long way in Baja, so learn how to exchange basic pleasantries (por favor, gracias, mucho gusto, yo soy de…), ask directions, order food, and understand prices before your trip. It will help A LOT!
• For mobile service in Mexico, I use Airalo, an amazing app that offers data eSIM packages for nearly every country in the world— you can activate the eSIM entirely from your phone, so you’ll have service as soon as you drive across the border without needing to track down a local mobile shop! Use code BROOKE2994 for $3 off your first eSIM with Airalo!

*Overview: Baja Norte & Baja California Sur itinerary

1. Mexicali, BCN
2. Guadalupe Canyon, BCN
3. San Felipe, BCN
4. Bahía de los Ángeles, BCN
5. Guerrero Negro, BCS
6. San Ignacio, BCS
7. Mulegé, BCS
8. Bahía Concepción, BCS
9. Loreto, BCS
10. La Paz, BCS
11. La Ventana, BCS
12. Ensenada de Muertos, BCS
13. Cabo Pulmo National Park, BCS
14. East Cape, BCS
15. Los Cabos (San Jose del Cabo & Cabo San Lucas, BCS)
16. Todos Santos, BCS

-BAJA NORTE-

1 | Mexicali

The capital of Baja California and one of the two large border towns situated within spitting distance of the United States, there’s nothing particularly special about Mexicali other than being your first taste of vanlife south of the border! 

In all fairness, there’s some excellent food and craft beer to be had here, as well as a whole host of dental offices (I got 5 fillings for $200), but I’d recommend scooting out of the city quickly and spending your time in Guadalupe Canyon instead (#2 on this itinerary).

What to do in Mexicali

• Tacos Cesar: These tacos are still among the best we’ve had in ALL of Baja (carne asada, pollo, al pastor; 25p), and better still, this roadside taco stand is right on the way to Guadalupe Canyon, making for the perfect lunch & take-away stop as you drive out of town!

• Tacos El Remolque: Packed with locals who flash a few fingers at the chef and seconds later receive their plate of carne asada tacos (even the tortillas are cooked fresh while you stand in line!), we loved this taco spot right across from Costco and were particularly impressed by all the fresh ingredients available for toppings at the ubiquitous salsa bar.

Drive: Mexicali to Guadalupe Canyon Oasis

• From Mexicali, it’s a 3hr drive across the dry lakebed of Laguna Salada and along a rough, rocky track to reach Guadalupe Canyon Oasis.

• While you don’t need 4WD (we made it in our front-wheel drive Promaster van), this is a VERY challenging drive and you can do real damage to your vehicle if you aren’t careful. The hot springs at Guadalupe Canyon were a definite highlight of our trip, but we wish we’d been more prepared for just how stressful the drive would be.

• For detailed driving directions (and all the info we wished we’d had before visiting), check out this post: HOW TO VISIT GUADALUPE CANYON OASIS HOT SPRINGS IN BAJA CALIFORNIA

2 | Guadalupe Canyon 

In the heart of Guadalupe Canyon, nearly 500,000L of steaming 50C (125F) water flows down from the mountains each day— and for decades, a local family has maintained a rugged campground and piped this natural water into a series of private rock pools, each tucked away among the palms to offer a unique experience for intrepid travellers.

If you haven’t been frightened off by the rather harrowing drive, Guadalupe Canyon is such a hidden gem and one of the most spectacular places to visit in Baja Norte. With careful planning, it’s SO worth the effort to get here!

• Everything you need to know to plan your visit is in this post: HOW TO VISIT GUADALUPE CANYON OASIS HOT SPRINGS IN BAJA CALIFORNIA

What to do in Guadalupe Canyon

• Guadalupe Canyon Oasis Hot Springs: Each of the 14 campsites at Guadalupe Canyon Oasis features a private hot spring pool in various sizes and with different views of the canyon or palm grove below. After each guest, Guadalupe Canyon Oasis completely drains and re-fills these pools to ensure cleanliness, so you’re free to bathe naked and bring whatever drinks or snacks you’d like into the pool!

• Hike to Las Cascadas: One of the best things to do in Guadalupe Canyon during the afternoon (when it can often be too hot to soak) is venture up into the mountains surrounding the oasis for a little hike. There are a number of rugged paths and signs directing you to a series of cascadas (waterfalls) that drop into crystal-clear swimming holes, the first of which is just 15min away from the oficina.

Where to stay: Guadalupe Canyon Oasis

• Guadalupe Canyon Oasis is home to 14 campsites, each with their own spectacular private hot spring pool and unique view of the canyon. Sites range in size and price, so the best way to choose is to look at all of the pictures provided on the Guadalupe Canyon Oasis website and email to confirm availability. Prices for the smallest 2-person hot springs start at $40/50USD (weekday/weekend) up to $105/$125USD for a 16-person hot spring; view the full price-list here.

• Camping at Laguna Salada: If you take advantage of your hot spring pool until 12pm checkout and then hike to the waterfalls as we did, you may find yourself departing Guadalupe Canyon in the late afternoon and chasing daylight to make it back to Mexicali— in this case, it’s possible to boondock on the perimeter of Laguna Salada (the dry lakebed) to avoid driving at night.

Drive: Mexicali to San Felipe

• After reversing the previous directions to return from Guadalupe Canyon to Mexicali, it’s a very straightforward 2-2.5hr drive (200km) south on Highway 5 to San Felipe.

• The entire drive is paved and the road is well maintained, with little traffic outside of Mexicali.

• Military checkpoint at the junction with Highway 3: asked where we were going, where we were from, and had a quick look at the inside of our van (but hardly opened any drawers).

• Expect spotty Telcel LTE service about 1hr into the drive, which eventually returns near San Felipe.

3 | San Felipe

This charming little beach town on the Sea of Cortez is an excellent stopover between Mexicali & Bahía de los Ángeles, and may well be your first glimpse of the ocean since arriving in Baja!

Thanks to its proximity to the border and consistently pleasant weather, San Felipe is incredibly popular with expats and grey nomads, many of whom travel south each year to wait out the harsh winter months on the sunny beaches of northern Baja. The influx of Americans and Canadians here unfortunately drives up prices (this was the most expensive camping I saw on the entire peninsula), but amazingly the town has retained enough local charm to warrant a visit.

What to do in San Felipe

• Walk the Malecón: As is typical in Mexico’s coastal towns, there’s a paved esplanade bordering the beach through San Felipe, and this is one of the best places to begin your exploration. Food stalls, local vendors, and even musicians cluster along the Malecón, which also features art, sculptures, and excellent views of the lighthouse.

• Shop in town: Although camping and food is more expensive in San Felipe than elsewhere along the peninsula, this is one of the best places to shop for local handicrafts. We bought a Mexican blanket to use as a rug in our van for just 100p ($5), and we never found better prices in any town throughout Baja!

• Mariscos La Palma: Not to be confused with Alfredos at Las Palmas, which we were told was not great, this is a little family-run seafood restaurant near the Malecón serving up delicious ceviche, tostadas, tacos, and more at pretty reasonable prices.

• San Felipe Brewing: With a good selection of craft beer and the possibility to free camp in their parking lot (see below), it’s definitely worth stopping at the brewery as you drive into town.

Where to stay in San Felipe

• San Felipe Brewing Co: With permission (and the purchase of some beer), it’s possible to camp in the sandy parking lot of this craft brewery about 10min north of San Felipe in Playa del Oro, which is a particularly good free option considering how expensive the RV parks are in town!

• Campo San Felipe RV Park: Of San Felipe’s many overpriced beachfront RV Parks, this is an excellent location within walking distance of the Malecón & many food stalls and shops; this particular RV park has great beach access, clean facilities & even a pool, but it will set you back 650p per night (pretty standard for San Felipe).

Read more: THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

Drive: San Felipe to Bahía de los Ángeles 

• Even with photo stops and a lunch break, it took us just over 4.5hrs to cover the 340km to Bahía de los Ángeles (if you’re in a larger vehicle, definitely allow more time— 6hrs to be safe).

• This is also the longest stretch of driving with unreliable fuel, so make sure you have a FULL tank in San Felipe and fill up at any open Pemex that you pass, since even Bahía de los Ángeles is known to “run out” of fuel randomly (we actually got 2x 10L jerrycans in SF, just in case).

• A majority of the drive is on Highway 5 to the junction in Chapala, then follows Highway 1 past El Crucero, and finally turns east along the access road to Bahía. The entire drive is paved, 2 lanes, and the roads are in great condition (only minor potholes on the final stretch to Bahía), although the shoulder is basically non-existent and a lot of big trucks drive this highway.

• Once you pass Puertecitos, there’s no mobile service the entire way to Bahía (and no service in town, either).

• We noticed a checkpoint that wasn’t marked on iOverlander just before Punta Final on Highway 5 (which appeared abandoned, so we passed right through). Note that you WILL encounter an active checkpoint (south of Punta Prieta) when leaving Bahía de los Ángeles if you head south on Highway 1.

• Just after the abandoned check point, stop at Rancho Grande— there’s a mercado selling beer, snacks, water with a restaurant attached, as well as a taco truck out front with amazing fish tacos for 30p; this is also the first fuel we saw since San Felipe (apparently it’s not always open, but it was when we passed through)

• From Rancho Grande, the scenery transitions to abundant yucca, giant saguaro, and peculiar cirios (boojum trees) on either side of the road, and we found ourselves stopping for photos with regularity all the way to the bay

• There are 2 Pemex stations in town, but as mentioned, finding fuel in Bahía isn’t always reliable!

4 | Bahía de los Ángeles 

A classic stop on any Baja road trip, due in part to its location but equally to its superb scenery, Bahía de los Ángeles (Bay of the Angels) is a real highlight of the north.

You won’t find sandy beaches or Mediterranean coves here, but the diversity of marine life flourishing in the bay is truly amazing, and you’re likely to encounter hermit crabs, sea snails, clams, sting rays, and dolphins on any given day and possibly even bioluminescence at night. Pure magic!

What to do in Bahía de los Ángeles

• Kayak or SUP: The absolute best way to enjoy the bay is on your own kayak or SUP, cruising out into the calm water at sunrise or lazing around the shore in the afternoon sun. Explore beaches around the point and visit sea lions on the rocks, all from your own beachfront campsite!

• Snorkelling: It’s no Cabo Pulmo, but there’s still fun snorkelling to be had in Bahía de los Ángeles. We saw stingrays gliding over the sand, colourful fish darting between the rocks, dolphins swimming gracefully on the horizon, and millions of hermit crabs & sea snails, their polished shells catching light and drawing us below the surface to investigate.
• Explore: there are heaps of wonderful coves and beaches hidden over the hillside that you can explore on long walks around the bay!

• Whale watching tour: During the autumn and into early winter, it’s possible to see humpback whales, grey whales, and even whale sharks around the bay. Most whale watching excursions last 4-5hrs and are offered at $200USD per boat or $4-50USD per person if joining an existing tour.

• Siete Filos café: The cafe on site at Campo Archelon (below) is truly worth a visit, no only for the lightning fast WIFI and comfortable work atmosphere, but also for their gourmet vegetarian food.

• Las Hamacas: Another good restaurant in town, though a bit more local.

Where to stay in Bahía de los Ángeles

• Playa La Gringa: One of our favourite campsites in all of Baja was this beautiful rocky beach just 15min out of town with excellent access for kayaking, snorkelling & fishing (crabs, clams, octopus, etc). There’s heaps of space and privacy, yet it’s easy to socialise with some of the other RVs and vans who come to stay for a while.

• Campo Archelon: This is a beautiful eco-focused, beach-front campground in town with hot showers, excellent WIFI, and a delicious onsite café (Siete Filos). Standard sites run 200p per person or you can upgrade to a larger site with a palapa for 240p/p, otherwise expect to be VERY close to your neighbours; that being said, there’s a great community vibe and this is a perfect spot to meet other travellers headed south through Baja! I’d definitely recommend to reserve during busy season.

Read more: THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

Drive: Bahía de los Ángeles to Guerrero Negro

• The drive from Bahía de los Ángeles to Guerrero Negro crosses the state border into Baja California Sur and takes about 3hrs (200km).

• First, reverse the drive through the saguaro and cirios gardens to reconnect with Highway 1 (about 45min from Bahía) and then continue south all the way to Guerrero Negro.

• Military checkpoint about 1hr south of Punta Prieta: the usual questions (where are you going, where are you from) and a very brief look at the interior of our van.

• Agriculture control stop: right before crossing into BCS, there’s a little station where they will spray the underside of your vehicle for pests and then ask for a small donation (it’s optional, so we gave 10p and got on our way).

-BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR-

5 | Guerrero Negro

If you’re here in the right season (mid-Jan to early-Apr), Guerrero Negro is one of the best places on Baja’s Pacific Coast to see grey whales, who uniquely court human affection by swimming right up to boats and offering their head for a gentle pat. Outside of the season, it’s a bit less of a destination, but still likely to be an overnight stop as you head south.

What to do in Guerrero Negro

• Whale watching: The biggest (well, only) attraction to Guerrero Negro is boat tours that bring you out to see the grey whales, usually from mid-winter until mid-spring, while they’re migrating through the bay with newborn calves in tow. It’s common for mothers to bring their babies all the way up to boats, as if introducing them to humans for the first time, and it’s one of the most unique wildlife encounters available in Baja!

Where to stay in Guerrero Negro

• Boondocking behind the sand dunes: hidden spot behind the sand dunes about 10min from town & 2min off the highway, this is certainly nothing fancy, but it’s safe and comfortable enough for a night.

• Ojo de Liebre: this is one of the best spots on the entire peninsula for whale watching and it’s possible to organise boat tours from the campsite to interact with the enormous grey whales who migrate through from mid-Jan to early-Apr (camping only open during those times, which fluctuate year to year). Basic sites are 100p per night or 200p for palapa on the beach.

Drive: Guerrero Negro to San Ignacio

• Following Highway 1 out of Guerrero Negro, it’s an easy 1.75hrs (150km) on well-maintained road to San Ignacio.

• Military checkpoint just before San Ignacio: after the usual where are you going, where are you from?, the officer stepped into our van and spent about 5min pawing through our electronics drawer, asking how much things cost and repeatedly saying “for me?”. We managed to get away without giving him the headphones, speaker, or laptop powerbank he wanted, but it made me nervous— keep a close eye during these inspection.

• There’s a Pemex in San Ignacio, but you shouldn’t be hard-up for fuel in BCS like that long drive in Baja Norte!

6 | San Ignacio

Situated along the shores of an emerald lagoon and tucked within a thick palm oasis, historic San Ignacio is one of Baja’s most delightful inland towns and an excellent stop between Guerrero Negro and Mulegé.

There’s not much in the way of “things to do” here, but the quiet pace of life and friendly locals really do make San Ignacio something special. And that’s to say nothing of the scenery!

What to do in San Ignacio

• Misión de San Ignacio: This 18th century church is the centrepiece of little San Ignacio, located right in the central square and always bustling with local events. It doesn’t take long to explore the misión and then wander along the flower-covered side-streets through town.

• Museo INAH San Ignacio: Small and free museum located just around the left side of the church, worth a short visit to learn about the ancient civilisations who thrived in this region of Baja.
• Kayak: pop your boat into the lagoon and paddle underneath the palms!

• Viktor’s: Tasty restaurant on the main square with reasonable prices and free WIFI.

• Try Licuado de Datíl: If the hundreds of date palms lining the lagoon and spilling out towards the highway were any indication, this region produces an incredible amount of dates, and locals have taken to making everything from date bread to date milkshakes with the sticky caramel-like fruit.

Where to stay in San Ignacio

• Don Chon RV Park: this is one of several basic RV parks located on the shores of the lagoon, and with towering palms and waterfront access, it’s truly an oasis experience; 100p per night for dry camping.

Drive: San Ignacio to Mulegé

• From San Ignacio, continue along Highway 1 for just under 2hrs (140km) to reach Mulegé, located on the Sea of Cortez in the east of BCS.

• This road is fairly winding and features some big crests, but it’s well-maintained and offers some spectacular views of Tres Virgenes, the peninsula’s only volcano complex.

7 | Mulegé

One of the most colourful and altogether charming towns in all of Baja, Mulegé sits just north of Bahía Concepción, ringed by lush palm trees, cut by a green river, and opening onto a flurry of marine activity just offshore.

For the food as much as the scenery and the vibes as much as the free camping, Mulegé is a fast-favourite among van lifers— you may just find the days slipping through your fingers as you kayak through pods of wild dolphins, snorkel with puffer fish, dig into a massive plate of chilaquiles, or stare down from the breathtaking Misión.

What to do in Mulegé

• Misión de Mulege: Founded in the early 1700s by a jesuit missionary and significantly compromised over several hundred years, this rustic church has been carefully restored— but the main reason to venture up here is for the jaw-dropping view over the lagoon, accessible in just a few steps from the car and completely free.

• Snorkelling & kayaking at Punta Prieta: As mentioned previously (and again below), there are heaps of puffer fish, stingrays, and dolphins right around the point, not to mention a beautiful landscape of saguaro cactuses leading right up to the beach.

• Mulegé Plaza: This little town square is usually decorated for some upcoming event and food stalls around the perimeter offer truly delicious food at a great price. Some of the best chilaquiles I’ve ever had are still from the little stand Cazuela Molcajete right here in Mulegé!

• Asadero Dany & Mario’s: Weigh-in on the ongoing debate for Mulegé’s best tacos— Asadero Dany vs Mario’s. Both are excellent, but we definitely prefer the pescado from Mario’s and the carne asada from Dany; at 220p for 8 tacos, you really can’t go wrong.

• Mulegé Brewing Co: Owned by a New York expat, this trendy spot in town makes great craft beer and tasty food (albeit at a slightly high price by Mexico standards; 80p for a pint), and there’s descent wifi in the beer garden if you need to do some work/life admin.

Where to stay in Mulegé

• Punta Prieta: This is a gorgeous boondocking site about 10min from town with excellent 4G reception. Wildlife sightings from this rocky beach include dolphins, blow fish, sting rays & sea turtles, so bring your snorkel and kayak or SUP to really get amongst it (we kayaked through a pod of about 100 dolphins, and it was one of my all-time favourite experiences!)

• Huerta Don Chano RV Park: If you need facilities or fancy being closer to other travellers, this is a well-appointed campground located in a shady part of town, easy walking distance to explore all of Mulegé. The cost is 200p for dry camping or 300p for hook-ups.

Read more: THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

Drive: Mulege to Bahía Concepción 

• Located just above the northern tip of the bay, it’s an easy 20min (20km) drive from Mulegé to Playa Santispac along Highway 1

• The views as you come over the hill and descend towards Playa Santispac are truly jaw-dropping, so have your camera ready!

8 | Bahía Concepción 

A staggering number of Baja’s best beaches are situated along Bahía Concepción, a paradise of white sand and clear turquoise water perfect for kayaking/SUPing right from the doors of your van.

In many ways, Bahía Concepción is the quintessential Baja vanlife experience, so if you’ve dreamed of living in a bikini, slurping fresh-caught clams purchased out of a bucket, and drinking cervezas while reading a good book in the sun, then this is absolutely your place.

What to do in Bahía Concepción

• Kayaking in the bay: Although there is far better snorkelling elsewhere in Baja, the sheltered bay is perfect for kayaking. If you’re up for a long paddle, venture out to some of the islands offshore and admire the dozens of sea birds that perch on shallow rocks, or go check out the nearby tidal hot springs.

• Just hang out: Much of the appeal of Bahía Concepción is the ability to camp directly on the sand with a perfect beach right in front of your door, so take some time to just soak in where you are! When I think of Baja in my mind, I’ll always think of sunny afternoons spent at Playa Santispac.

• Beach hop: Check out some of the best beaches recommended below (camping is available at all of them).

Where to stay in Bahía Concepción

• Playa Santispac: Unquestionably the BEST of Bahía Concepción’s many beautiful beachfront campsites, there are also hot springs nearby, locals selling fresh-caught seafood on the beach, gorgeous sunrise views, 2 on-site restaurants with passable WIFI (no mobile reception), and very rough bathrooms. Although this campground reportedly gets quite busy at certain times of the year (multiple rows of RVs), such has not been the case since covid and we managed to find a beachfront spot more than 150m from our nearest neighbours; 200p per night, but you can negotiate (we paid 300p for 2 nights).

• Playa El Coyote: This is another popular beachfront option a few minutes south on the bay with similar water access for kayak/SUP & basic facilities just like those describe above, also for 200p.

• Playa El Requeson: Another camping option in Bahía Concepción, unique for its narrow sand-spit that essentially offers 2 beachfronts & wonderful views. One of the best things about this beach is that it’s very protected and therefore perfect for swimming, snorkelling, kayaking, etc (just be mindful of the tide-line when parking); cost is 200p.

• Private rocky beach: One of the only water-front boondocking options on the bay, this is a rocky beach at the southern end of Bahía Concepción just off the highway among cactus gardens & thousands of seashells. It’s completely hidden from view, safe for camping, and offers great solitude (but no mobile reception)

Read more: THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

Drive: Bahía Concepción to Loreto 

• Depending on where in the bay you’ve last camped, the drive south to Loreto is 1.5-2hrs (80-110km), más o menos

• Military checkpoint: about 30min north of Loreto, there’s a military checkpoint asking all the usual questions

• There’s no mobile reception from anywhere in Bahía Concepción until after the checkpoint, about 15min before you drop into Loreto, but it’s a straight drive on Highway 1 so you should be fine to manage without navigation

9 | Loreto

An absolutely pristine beach town on the Sea of Cortez popular with expats and grey nomads, you’ll hardly find a more deserving example of a Pueblo Mágico— the government designation that recognises 132 towns around Mexico for their rich culture, natural wonders, striking architecture, or historical significance.

In Loreto, it may indeed be a combination. The Malecon sparkles without a single piece of rubbish, paved bike lanes wrap through the palm-lined streets of town, colourful restaurants serve fresh seafood overlooking the beach, and the bright Misión and central Plaza truly dazzle. This is gentrified Baja at its most obvious, but there’s still enough historic charm and local culture in Loreto to feel authentic.

Off shore, Loreto is every bit as magical— thanks to commendable local efforts to protect the unique wildlife that lives in the bay and nearby Isla Coronado, Parque Nacional Bahía de Loreto was named a UNESCO World Heritage site for its diversity and ecological significance to the peninsula. By land or by sea, it’s not hard to be swept up by this little pueblo on the Gulf Coast!

What to do in Loreto

• Walk the Malecón: Either stroll or bike along the paved boardwalk that wraps along the coast through town, admiring how there’s truly not a single piece of rubbish in sight. This may be the cleanest town in the world!

• Loreto Plaza: The town’s central square is always abuzz with festivities, and it can be incredibly fun to eat at one of the restaurants on the perimeter just to sit back and take it all in. A short walk away, it’s also worth admiring the Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto de Conchó, a sunshine-yellow church still standing from the 17th century.

• El Zopilote Brewing Co: One of the best spots on the Plaza to sit and enjoy the aforementioned people-watching is El Zopilote, an excellent local craft brewery serving up some of the best beer we’ve had in Baja, as well as some truly tasty food. You’ll pay a little more in this desirable location, but it’s worth it for the atmosphere!

• Boat trip to Isla Coronado: Tour operators all over town offer boat trips and snorkelling tours to Isla Coronado, but the best deal remains the $35USD per person tour offered by Romanita RV Park (there’s a little office at the entrance where you can put your name down for tours departing in the coming days; min. 4 people per tour).

• Tacos El Güero: 2 doors down from the Big Mart, there’s a white taco stand with a large sign advertising “Tacos, hot Mexican food”; don’t let the unassuming exterior fool you, the carne asada tacos were 25p and truly excellent!

Where to stay in Loreto

• Rivera del Mar RV Park: situated a few blocks off the beach, this is a well-maintained RV park with hot showers, washer/dryer facilities (35p per load), and great WIFI, all for the modest price of 200 pesos per night

• Romanita RV Park: a bit closer to the beach and to town, this is a spacious RV park that also offers hot showers, WIFI, washing facilities (but no dryers) for 250p per night; organised boat tours to Isla Coronado depart daily for $35USD p/p (possible to sign up even as a non-guest)

Read more: THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

Drive: Loreto to La Paz

• This is your second largest section of continuous driving as you make your way south through Baja— it’s 4.5hrs (350km) along Highway 1 to reach La Paz

• Agriculture Checkpoint: 25min (20km) before you reach La Paz on Highway 1, there’s a checkpoint for pests/ticks, but we were just waved through; check recent experiences on iOverlander here

10 | La Paz

We typically prefer to be out in nature rather than in a city, but at 300,000 people, La Paz really does feel more like a town than a metropolitan centre— and as the gateway to many of the region’s best natural experiences, it routinely ranks among travellers’ favourite destinations in Baja.

Between the incredible food, lively waterfront, bustling markets, and countless beautiful beaches, you’ll want to dedicate some time to exploring La Paz!

What to do in La Paz

• Whale shark tour: For all the fascinating marine life and incredible creatures who inhabit the Sea of Cortez, perhaps none is more beguiling than the whale shark, a plankton-feeding carpet shark whose calm grace and striking beauty belie its almost incomprehensible size. The sheltered Bay of La Paz is considered one of the best places in the entire world to swim alongside these gentle giants; during the season from October to May, sightings are practically guaranteed. Strict protections for whale sharks in Baja California Sur require that you join a tour, so check out this post for more info: SWIMMING WITH WHALE SHARKS & SEA LIONS IN LA PAZ, BCS MEXICO: AN AMAZING TOUR WITH BAJA ADVENTURE CO

• Snorkel with sea lions: Either at Isla Espiritu Santo or in combination with a whale shark tour, it’s possible to snorkel with enormous and very playful sea lions in the bay, which was an unexpected highlight!

• Walk or bike the Malecón: Like any good Latin American city, La Paz has a shining oceanfront boardwalk that makes for an excellent stroll with even better views.

• Playa Balandra: This sparkling cove of bright white sand and turquoise water set against dramatic mountains is one of the best day trips from La Paz— it recently won a tourism award as the best beach in all of Mexico! The car park tends to fill by midday, so arrive early to stake out your spot on the sand, and make sure to hike up the hill for an aerial view of Playa Balandra, which is particularly staggering at low tide when the water recedes by several hundred metres to expose a narrow sand bar. Entrance is 50p, paid to conservation staff and volunteers who maintain the beach.

• Mc-Fisher: Winner of our own “best tacos in Baja” list (COMING SOON), you simply can’t visit La Paz without trying the Burro Maya— a large taco filled with smoked marlin, chile relleno & grilled cheese for just 45p. So good we came back 3 times for this exact taco!

• Harker Board Co.: Trendy rooftop bar serving local craft beer from Baja Brewing and others.

• Bismarkcito: Long-standing restaurant on the Malecón famous for their lobster tacos (which we can now attest are AMAZING and not much cheaper anywhere else).

Where to stay in La Paz

• Playa Tecolote: North of La Paz & just beyond Playa Balandra, this is a busy beach popular with local families, but entirely free for camping & not terribly busy after day-trippers clear out. There are several restaurants onsite, water taxis available to Balandra, paid toilet facilities (5p), and an incredible number of sea birds at sunset (but no mobile reception).

• Playa El Mogote: There is plentiful boondocking available at this prominent sandbar west of the city, some of which is accessible in a 2WD (use caution on the loose sand). In calm & clear conditions, it’s actually possible to see whale sharks right from the shore!

• Public parking outside MAREA: This is another great option for safe, free, conveniently located street camping in La Paz. Let the security guard at MAREA know you’re staying outside in the public area & they will watch your van!

Read more: THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

Drive: La Paz to La Ventana

• The drive from La Paz to La Ventana is a real quickie, just 40min (45km) SE from the centre of the city and you’ve arrived!

11 | La Ventana

Although La Ventana is regarded as one of the top kitesurfing destinations in the world, there’s so much more to this small fishing village on the Sea of Cortez than just consistent wind.

The town is essentially one long dirt road, opening onto countless beaches on one side and dozens of awesome local eateries on the other, and despite the massive seasonal gringo population here for kiting, the town itself has retained a distinctly Mexican feel— from someone who’s spent several weeks here, La Ventana is all unpretentious beauty and easy living.

What to do in La Ventana

• Kitesurf: the main draw to La Ventana is kitesurfing, and even if you’ve never been on a board before, there are several kite schools in town that can train you up (the largest 2 being Baja Joe’s and Playa Central); be warned that it’s not easy OR inexpensive to learn, but from friends who’ve gotten seriously into kiting, there’s hardly a better place to pick it up than this little Baja town!

• Hot Springs: Drive about 10min out of town past El Sargento and follow the somewhat rough (but manageable) dirt road out to the beach to find these free natural hot springs right on the shoreline. Be sure to visit during low tide (or about 1-2hrs before) for the best experience and come prepared to do some digging/rock wall assembly, since they aren’t always nicely formed (I was lucky twice, but had to build my own pool one time and it was HARD with no bucket or shovel).

• Rancho La Ventana: Not only are their fried fish tacos (pescado frito) incredible, but they also make chilaquiles large enough to share for just 95p (the pinnacle of Mexican breakfast, this dish consists of fried tortillas, beans, meat or eggs, salsa, cheese & crema).

• Taqueria Paty: Another fantastic local eatery, known for their tacos al pastor and mainland dishes like choriqueso and posole, which you won’t find in many other parts of Baja. You can also BYO beer and there’s a Modelorama right next door!

• Mariscos El Cone: Excellent and very reasonably priced seafood restaurant between La Ventana & El Sargento.

Where to stay in La Ventana

• Hot Springs: There several options for boondocking at or near the hot springs (described above) and these continue for several kilometres north down the dirt road; you may even be alone out here, with most of the campers in town!
• El Sargento Campground: You’ll find heaps of paid beach camping options in La Ventana, packed with kitesurfers and Canadian/American RVers who spend their winters in Baja. None is particularly better than the next, but this spot at the north end of La Ventana is a good place to check out for 200p/night.

Read more: THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

Drive: La Ventana to Cabo Pulmo

• From La Ventana, it’s a quick 30min (28km) drive to Ensenada de Muertos just SE of the bay.

12. Ensenada de Muertos

A snorkelling spot so good it deserves its own entry and at least one full day!

Ensenada de Muertos (“Cove of the Dead”, although they appear to be pushing for a rebrand as Bahía de los Sueños, or “Bay of Dreams”) is one of the absolute BEST snorkelling spots on the entire peninsula, and that’s to say nothing of the pristine, utterly secluded beaches or the perfect kayaking/SUP conditions. If you like water activities, this hidden gem is not to be missed!

What to do in Ensenada de Muertos

• Snorkelling: the best snorkelling is to be found on the sea wall directly out front of the restaurant, where hundreds of friendly puffer fish will swim right up to your mask and shy eels slither between the coral.
• Kayaking/SUP: calm conditions make for excellent paddling in this sheltered bay!
• Los Barriles: about 1hr south of La Ventana, this beachfront resort town is popular among gringo vacationers and easy enough as a stopover from La Ventana to Cabo Pulmo; honestly, we didn’t care for the vibe (or the prices), but there’s a descent supermarket and some restaurants if you wanted to swing through.

Where to stay in Ensenada de Muertos

• Restaurant 1535: you’re not exactly flush for food options in Ensenada de Muertos, but thankfully the restaurant right next to the snorkelling spot serves good food, has wifi & will let you sleep overnight in their carpark for free in a van! With some effort, you may even be able to get connection from inside your van at night, but you’ll need to park close.

Drive: Ensenada de Muertos to Cabo Pulmo National Park

• From Ensenada de Muertos, join the main road at General Juan Domínguez Cota and continue south along Highway 1 for just over 2hr (150km), primarily on Highway 1, to Cabo Pulmo National Park (via Los Barriles).

• Although short, the route from Ensenada de Muertos to Los Barriles is one of the most beautiful drives on the entire peninsula, travelling away from the coast and winding through a lush desert landscape dominated by thick green vegetation and beautiful volcanic mountains; the little town of San Antonio makes a nice stop and El Triunfo (with its amazing bakery) is a short detour off the route before arriving into Los Barriles.

• From Los Barriles, the route curves inland again before turning off Highway 1 and heading east past La Ribera, the last stop for fuel, groceries, and strong mobile signal (3G is the best you’ll get in the park).

• The last 30min of the drive to Cabo Pulmo is on a washboard dirt road; it’s totally navigable in a sedan or 2WD van, just take it easy (and maybe consider airing down your tires to smooth out the ride, if you have an air compressor).

13 | Cabo Pulmo National Park

Home to Baja’s largest living coral reef (and actually the only reef on the west coast of North America!), Cabo Pulmo National Park is an unbelievably magical place— one whose underwater world hosts large schools of colourful fish, 14 species of shark, humpback whales, sea turtles, stingrays, and jumping mobula ray.

Within a few hours but a world away from the resort-mecca of Cabo San Lucas, Cabo Pulmo National Park is our favourite spot on the entire peninsula and so worth the effort to get here!

Read more: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO VISITING CABO PULMO NATIONAL PARK IN BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR, MEXICO

What to do in Cabo Pulmo National Park

• Snorkelling: Cabo Pulmo is one of those rare places where you can see just about everything with your own mask and snorkel, no need to sign up for a tour! For my 5 favourite snorkel sites in the park, check out this post: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO VISITING CABO PULMO NATIONAL PARK IN BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR, MEXICO

• Scuba diving: Cabo Pulmo is highly regarded as home to some of the best diving sites in the world and there are several PADI dive shops in town that offer 2-tank dives for certified divers at ~$180USD. 

• Kayak or SUP: one of our favourite activities in Cabo Pulmo was taking our inflatable kayak out every morning to look for humpback whales, who swim right through the bay and sometimes amazingly close to the shore from sunrise until ~9am. Respecting their space is important, but we had a mother and baby get within a few metres of our kayak just by chance— they played for about 10min in front of us before some tourist boats came blazing in and scared them away. The water is typically calm, so it’s phenomenal paddling against a beautiful backdrop even if you don’t see any marine life!

Where to stay in Cabo Pulmo National Park

• Abandoned RV Park: Right as you’re driving into town, there’s a small rocky beach next to what was once a beachfront RV park (just south of Punta Cabo Pulmo), and this spot boasts excellent water access for kayaking and snorkelling, prime whale watching (we saw about 50 whales from our campsite during the week), decent 3G service, all walking distance from town.

• Los Frailes: This sandy beach just beyond town is incredibly popular with long-term travellers, but there’s still plenty of space available on the beachfront or across the road in the arroyo. We made it to the beach just fine in 2WD, but aired down our tires considerably & walked the road to scope out the safest route through the sand. You’ll find great snorkelling around the rocky north end of the beach and a beautiful stretch of pristine sand on the opposite side!

Read more: THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

Drive: Cabo Pulmo National Park to La Fortuna

• There are 2 different ways to reach La Fortuna from Cabo Pulmo: 

1. Drive a rough, washboard dirt road south out of Cabo Pulmo for about 1hr (40km) directly down the East Cape to reach any of the beautiful beaches around La Fortuna.
2. Drive north out of Cabo Pulmo (about 15min of dirt road) to connect with the main paved route through La Ribera, eventually getting back onto Highway 1 through Santiago and San José del Cabo (crossing the Tropic of Cancer— stop for enormous helado right near the visitor centre), and then travelling north up the cape to reach La Fortuna (only the final 10min are on dirt road). This route is much longer at 2.5hrs (130km), but it’s almost entirely on paved roads and you’ll have the opportunity to restock food & supplies in several large towns. Google Maps isn’t aware of some road closures, so be sure to read this post for more detailed directions: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO VISITING CABO PULMO NATIONAL PARK IN BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR, MEXICO

• Neither route involves any military checkpoints (the one listed on iOverlander no longer exists in that location) and both routes are theoretically passable for any vehicle in good weather, so it’s probably your food/water supply that will dictate whether you can come directly down the East Cape or whether you need to circle around through the city.

• There’s a Walmart in San José del Cabo only 2km off the route, which makes for an easy resupply, as well as dozens of roadside taco stands from La Ribera to Santiago and all the way south.

14 | East Cape (La Fortuna)

Encompassing the coastline from Los Barriles to San José del Cabo, Baja’s East Cape is a wild and unspoilt paradise of sandy beaches and calm waters, largely undeveloped and blissfully off the beaten path thanks to the long dirt access road. 

But the journey out here, although slow, is easy enough in 2WD and well worth the effort— nearly all of the beaches are camp-able AND free! 

In my opinion, the best spots along the East Cape (aside from Cabo Pulmo National Park, which is the ultimate highlight of this region) are right around La Fortuna, accessible from either north or south as described above. There are a dozen beautiful, completely empty beaches in this area and it ended up being some of our favourite camping on the whole peninsula! 

What to do on the East Cape

• Hang out!: Honestly, there’s not a lot “to do” on the East Cape, but if you’re looking to hang out in a beautiful, secluded destination for a few days and just revel in Baja vanlife, then this is an excellent place to do it!

• Surf: The swell is pretty small but fairly consistent, which makes for good beginner surfing; a local man brings newbies to the beach every morning to learn, so chat to him about joining in.

Where to stay on the East Cape

• Playa La Fortuna: As with almost all of the beaches in this undeveloped area, it’s possible to park on or just in front of this sandy beach. There are no facilities or mobile reception, but there’s an upscale sushi restaurant just above the beach where you can find food, toilets & WIFI; more importantly, there are heaps of humpback whales offshore and great beginner surfing!

• Playa El Cardón: This is another excellent beach off Camino Cabo Este just north of Shipwrecks where you can camp on the sand. Again, there are no facilities, but there are spectacular views, particularly of whales!

Drive: La Fortuna to San José del Cabo

• If you’ve already driven through San José del Cabo to reach La Fortuna, simply retrace your steps; it’s a slow but direct 1hr (28km) drive partially on the new paved road, partially on the older dirt Camino Cabo Este, and eventually into the city.

• San José del Cabo is just 30min (30km) east of Cabo San Lucas, so it’s easy to explore both towns together (although you may find that you like one considerably more than the other…).

15 | Los Cabos (San José del Cabo & Cabo San Lucas)

Meaning “The Capes”, the Los Cabos region at the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula is comprised of two major resort towns, San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas. Expect to see more tourists here than you’ve seen everywhere else in Baja combined!

Cabo San Lucas is a raucous party destination with pulsing nightclubs and chain restaurants that you might choose to avoid altogether, but the more upscale San José del Cabo features a charming downtown of cobbled laneways, weekly art walks, and Instagram-worthy eateries. Between these resort towns, there’s also plenty of beachfront camping to be found!

What to do in Los Cabos

• San José del Cabo Art Walk: Every Thursday from 5-9pm, downtown San José del Cabo explodes in a bustle of excited activity for the weekly art walk, bringing visitors into some of the peninsula’s best galleries, highlighting the work of local artists who sell handmade jewellery, original paintings, and other handicrafts right along the main streets of town, and of course featuring a plethora of streetfood in the central square— a true highlight and not to be missed!

• La Lupita: For some of the absolute BEST gourmet tacos in Baja (think: braised duck, asian fusion fish) and rad live music, head to this popular restaurant in San José del Cabo; I’d suggest making a reservation or getting on the waiting list as soon as you arrive in town!

• Baja Brewing Co: Local craft brewery in San José del Cabo with some great beer and a fun atmosphere
• El Arco: One of the most iconic views in Cabo San Lucas is the natural rock arch at the end of the cape, accessible via frequent boat tours from the beach; no need to book in advance, expect to be approached and offered about 500 tours while walking around!

Where to stay in Los Cabos

• Desert Park Natural Reserve: This sandy beach outside of San José del Cabo, sandwiched between 2 resorts, provides very comfortable (unofficial) overnight parking just a few steps off the beach.

• Street parking in the Art District: There are a few options for free street parking in the Art District of San José, which can be very loud during the Art Walk or on weekends/holidays, but are ultimately safe and secure for a night in town.

• Playa Palmilla: Another beautiful free beach between San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas; busy with locals & tourists in the afternoon, but possible to stay in the parking lot overnight; free outdoor showers.

Drive: Cabo San Lucas to Todos Santos

• As Highway 1 terminates in Cabo San Lucas, you’ll follow Highway 19 NW out of town for 1hr (75km) to reach Todos Santos.

• There are no military checkpoints on this section of the drive, so just cruise!

16 | Todos Santos

Capping off this epic road trip with another Pueblo Mágico, no trip to Baja is complete without a visit to Todos Santos (“All Saints”, in Spanish) and the many charming surf towns that surround it on the Pacific Coast. It’s a favourite for a reason!

After so much time on the (admittedly fantastic) Sea of Cortez, it’s a real treat to witness sunsets over the ocean, baby sea turtles hatching on the beach, and countless whales breaching directly off shore. There’s a real magic here, from the wildlife to the water to the charming little town and its burgeoning art scene, so stay a while and soak it up!

What to do in Todos Santos

• Tortugueros Las Playitas: an amazing local non-profit organisation dedicated to the protection and preservation of sea turtles, which are critically endangered due in large part to habitat destruction and the threat of predators on the beach. It’s possible to volunteer as a “biologist for a day”, which does require some advance coordination and a $45 donation, but those short on time can also arrive to the beach just before sunset to learn about the program and watch the nightly release of sea turtles from December to May! Read more about my experience in this post.

• Mercado Cielito Lindo: the best of the many excellent boutique craft markets in Todos Santos!

• Pacifica Fish Market: a bit pricier than other options in town, but their blackened fish burrito will blow your mind and it is worth every peso!

• La Paceña: their camarón tacos are the best in Todos Santos and among my favourite on the entire peninsula and the woman who makes them is the absolute sweetest

Where to stay in Todos Santos

• La Pastora: This is a fantastic (and very popular) boondocking site a few minutes out of Todos Santos, with great surf and frequent humpback whale sightings right off shore during the winter. With decent mobile reception, this is the perfect place to post up for a week or several!

• Secreto de las Rocas: This beautiful beach and rocky coastline is between Cabo San Lucas & Todos Santos, just off the highway. It’s very popular for sunset viewing, but everything quiets down after dark.

Read more: THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

This itinerary directly links to a number of other itineraries to create an enormous and truly epic route through more than a dozen Mexican states. Use these guides in series to craft your own ultimate Mexico vanlife or roadtrip itinerary! COMING SOON

1. Complete Baja Peninsula: Mexicali to Cabo Pulmo National Park to La Paz– THIS POST
2. Ferry crossing to mainland Mexico: La Paz, BCS to Mazatlán, Sinaloa
3. Pacific Mexico: Mazatlán to Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara
4. Guadalajara to Guanajuato to Mexico City
5. Central Mexico: Mexico City to Puebla to Oaxaca 
6. Oaxaca & Chiapas

Read more about Baja, Mexico

start here -> The ultimate road-tripper’s guide to Baja, Mexico

How to get the best Mexican auto insurance for a converted van or camper

Vanlife Baja & Mexico: A guide to crossing the border + all required permits (FMM & TIP)

The ultimate Baja camping guide (+ 35 of the best vanlife & RV campsites!)

Baja vanlife road trip itinerary for 1-3 months (+ driving directions & camping in 2023)

Ferry from Baja to mainland Mexico (La Paz to Mazatlán)