2-week Montenegro road-trip itinerary: epic hiking, Riviera beaches & wine country
Tucked between Croatia and Albania on the sparkling Adriatic, Montenegro is one of Europe’s most underrated outdoor destinations— a land of dramatic limestone peaks, snaking rivers, medieval walled cities, and beaches that easily rival the Mediterranean. And yet, this Balkan gem sees only a fraction of the tourists that flood nearby countries, making it an ideal spot for hikers, roadtrippers, and nature lovers in search of true off-the-beaten-path adventure!
In July 2025, James and I spent 3 weeks exploring Montenegro by car, hiking in remote national parks, glamping in wine country, swimming off quiet beaches, and driving some of the most scenic mountain roads in Europe. This itinerary distills all our favourite places into a the perfect 2-week route and showcases the incredible diversity and beauty of Montenegro with just the right mix of hiking, wine tasting, and coastal relaxation.
Montenegro road-trip logistics
When to go
The best time to follow this 2-week Montenegro itinerary is from May to October, when the hiking trails are largely snow-free, national parks are at their most accessible, and the Adriatic coast is warm enough for swimming.
- May – early June: This is early shoulder season in Montenegro, when the mountains are still quiet and wildflowers begin blooming in Durmitor and Prokletije. Some high trails (like Bobotov Kuk) may have lingering snow patches, but most roads and moderate hikes are accessible; expect cooler temps in the national parks, but sunshine and comfortable conditions on the coast.
- late June – August: This is peak summer season, so expect hot weather along the coast, mild alpine temperatures in the mountains, and long sunny days— perfect for hiking, wine tasting, and swimming. Kotor and the Budva Riviera get busy in July–August, but the rest of the country (especially inland) remains blissfully uncrowded.
- September – October: Early autumn is a gorgeous time to explore Montenegro, with golden forests, fewer tourists, and stable weather in both the mountains and along the Riviera. Trails are usually dry through mid-October, but snow can return early in high alpine areas like Prokletije.
Getting there
This itinerary is designed as a one-way route from Kotor to the Riviera, but it can easily be adapted into a loop starting and ending at either Tivat or Podgorica Airport with just a few extra hours of driving. This is exactly what we’d recommend for most travellers, since round-trip rentals are typically far cheaper!
- Starting point: Kotor (fly into Tivat Airport or catch a direct bus from Dubrovnik, Croatia)
- Ending point: Tivat OR Podgorica Airport (depending on where you plan to fly next, the cost of one-way car rental, etc)
Getting around
The best (and really only practical) way to explore Montenegro off the beaten path is by renting a car—while there are a few bus routes between major towns, they don’t service the national parks or remote mountain valleys, so you’ll need your own transport to reach the trailheads, scenic drives, and glamping spots featured in this itinerary.
Car hire is affordable, with rates typically between $20–30/day from Podgorica or Tivat Airport. We always book through DiscoverCars to find the best deal!
Where to stay
During this 2-week Montenegro itinerary, you’ll be staying in a mix of guesthouses, glamping retreats, and small local hotels. Accommodation is typically affordable by European standards, but it’s still worth booking early, especially in Žabljak and Grebaje where the best mountain stays are small and book out quickly in summer!
- Kotor or Perast (3 nights): Villa & Apartments Perasto (charming waterfront studios with island views, 5min walk to the bay, and free parking) or Panonija (modern stay with private parking in Kotor)
- Žabljak (3 nights): Forma Lux Apartments (modern, comfortable studio in the middle town) or North Story Luxury Chalet (boutique mountain chalet with incredible views and a standout breakfast)
- Međurječje (1 night): Etno House Djurdjevina (beautiful stone farmhouse ~20min north of Međurječje) *there are very few options online in this area— use Google Maps to find local guesthouses and call ahead to reserve
- Grebjaje (3 nights): Bungalows Katun Maja Karanfil (rustic wooden cabins right at the trailhead, with a great restaurant and peaceful garden setting) or Ethno Katun ROSI Agrotourism (basic but scenic alternative nearby)
- Virpazar (2 nights): Hoopoe Glamping (stylish bell tents among the vines, with a natural rock pool and an excellent on-site restaurant)
- Sveti Stefan (2 nights): B&B Paštrovski Konak (family-run guesthouse in the hills, with sweeping views and delicious homemade dinners) or Apartments Kentera (comfortable apartments just a 5min walk from Sveti Stefan Beach)
🗺️ TRAVEL TIPS FOR MONTENEGRO
→ Language: Montenegrin (very similar to Serbian); younger generations often speak English, especially in tourist areas, so the language barrier is minimal for travellers
→ Currency: Euro (€); credit cards are accepted at most restaurants, but every hotel and guesthouse we stayed in wanted CASH
→ Tourist visa: 90-day visa-free entry for most nationalities (including AUS, USA, UK, EU); Montenegro is NOT part of the Schengen Zone, so time spent here doesn’t count against that limit!
→ SIM card: install an eSIM for Montenegro via Airalo; service is very spotty across the entire country and even more limited in national parks
→ Entry fees & permits: national parks charge 3€/day entry fees, payable on arrival (Durmitor and Prokletije)
→ Packing list: check out my essential day-hike packing list and advice on choosing the best hiking boots, backpacks, and outdoor layers
→ Essential apps: Google Maps (download for offline use); CalTopo GPS (best low-cost GPS map for outdoor nav)
*Detailed Montenegro road-trip itinerary
- Day 1: arrive via bus from Durbovnik or flight into Tivat/Podgorica
- Days 2-3: Kotor & Perast
- Days 4-6: Durmitor National Park (Žabljak)
- Days 7-8: Maganik Mountains
- Days 9-10: Prokletije National Park (Grebjaje)
- Days 11-12: Virpazar & Lake Skadar
- Days 13-14: Sveti Stefan & the Budva Riviera
- Day 15: return to Tivat/Podgorica to fly out
Days 1–3: Kotor & Perast
Kick off your Montenegro adventure with a dose of history and Adriatic charm on the stunning Bay of Kotor, a UNESCO-listed fjord flanked by limestone peaks, sleepy stone villages, and medieval walled towns. Although it’s gained popularity in recent years (especially during the summer cruise season), it remains one of the most breathtaking corners of the Balkans, lined by cobbled cities that ooze old-world charm and overlooked by steep, panoramic trails.
Driving in from Tivat Airport (30min) or Podgorica Airport (2hrs) on Day 1, you can choose to base yourself in Kotor, the livelier of the two (often called a mini Dubrovnik), or Perast, a peaceful baroque village with bougainvillea-draped stone houses and front-row views of the bay.
- Kotor is ideal if you’re after restaurants, nightlife, and historic sights, with everything within easy walking distance of the old town walls.
- Perast is better suited to travellers seeking quiet mornings, waterfront coffee, and a romantic, small-village vibe.
Whichever you choose, it’s easy to visit the other as a half-day trip— they’re just 20 minutes apart by car (or a scenic boat ride across the bay!).
What to do in Kotor & Perast
Waking up in Kotor or Perast on Day 2, you’ll have two full days to explore the Bay of Kotor. Here are some of our most-recommended experiences:
- Wander the Old Town of Kotor: explore narrow cobbled lanes, historic churches, and charming squares within the fortified city walls
- Hike to San Giovanni Fortress: climb 1,350 steps up the mountainside for epic views over Kotor Bay; go early in the morning or just before sunset to avoid the cruise ship crowds and midday heat (allow ~2hrs return)
- Tackle the Ladder of Kotor: a historic zigzag trail that climbs high above the bay via dozens of switchbacks, starting from Old Town and ascending all the way to Krstac Pass for panoramic views (allow ~3–4hrs return)
- Take a boat to Our Lady of the Rocks: from either Kotor or Perast, join a boat tour (or hire a private boat, which cost ~250€ for 3hrs) to visit this iconic manmade islet and its 17th-century church, perched dramatically in the middle of the bay
- Stroll the waterfront in Perast: this elegant village is made for lazy wandering— admire the baroque architecture, stop for a coffee by the water, and soak up the views of the twin islands just offshore
Where to stay in Kotor or Perast
Plan to spend 3 nights in either Kotor or Perast, depending on your preferred vibe. Both towns are close enough that you can easily explore one while staying in the other, so base your decision on the kind of experience you’re after: Kotor offers more restaurants, nightlife, and early-morning access to fortress hikes, while Perast is quieter, more romantic, and ideal for slow mornings by the water.
We loved our stay at Villa & Apartments Perasto, one of the few places in town with free onsite parking, incredible balcony views of the twin islands, and still just a 5min stroll to the waterfront. In Kotor, Panonija is a great choice with modern rooms and private parking, located just outside the Old Town for easy access.
Days 4-6: Durmitor National Park
Get ready to experience some of the most jaw-dropping mountain scenery in Montenegro! Durmitor National Park is a rugged wilderness of limestone peaks, glacial lakes, deep canyons, and alpine meadows that we instantly compared to the Dolomites— but unlike Italy, you can enjoy these landscapes with basically zero crowds.
This was easily our favourite place in Montenegro and, if you have additional time in your itinerary, spend it exploring more hiking trails and scenic drives around Durmitor!
Getting to Žabljak
On Day 4, drive ~3hrs from Kotor/Perast to Žabljak, the main town inside Durmitor National Park. This is one of the most scenic drives in Montenegro and begins with the famous Kotor Serpentine Road, a series of 25 dramatic hairpin bends twisting up the mountain that delivers jaw-dropping views over the bay with every turn. Along the way, it’s worth stopping at:
- Panoramic viewpoints above Kotor (including a lookout near Restaurant Nevjesta Jadrana, one of the best photo spots overlooking the entire bay)
- detour via Piva Lake & Trsa: follow the P14 road through Piva Canyon, past the vibrant Piva Lake, and up to the remote alpine village of Trsa; this lesser-known route adds about an hour but offers cliffside roads, quiet valleys, and some of the wildest views in the country
- Tara Canyon Viewpoints: just before Žabljak, stop to admire Europe’s deepest canyon, carved by the turquoise Tara River; several lookouts line the road, especially near the Đurđevića Tara Bridge, where you can also walk or zipline across the canyon
Hiking in Durmitor National Park
Head into the heart of Durmitor National Park on Days 5 and 6 for two full days of alpine adventure, scenic drives, and general wonderment. You’ll find trails for every level, but these two hikes— Mt Prutaš and Bobotov Kuk— are the best of the best!
AM Day 5: Mt Prutaš hike
This is inarguably one of the most beautiful and rewarding hikes in Durmitor, with grassy ridgelines, flower-filled meadows, and sweeping views across the valley to Bobotov Kuk (the highest peak in the region). But what really makes this hike unforgettable is the otherworldly geology— you’ll pass towering cliffs etched with dramatic ripple-like folds, where layers of limestone have been pushed and twisted into massive waves, revealing the park’s ancient tectonic history.
The climb itself is moderate but steady, with most of the elevation gain packed into the second half. It’s far less trafficked than Bobotov Kuk, making it a peaceful and scenic half-day hike and the perfect introduction to Durmitor National Park.
- Trailhead: Dobri Do/Šarban (parking for southern approach)
- Distance: 9km return
- Elevation gain/loss: 750m
- Time needed: 4-5hrs return
PM Day 5: Durmitor Ring Road scenic drive
After your Mt Prutaš hike, hop in the car and drive the Durmitor Ring, a scenic 76km loop that showcases the park’s most impressive scenery— jagged cliffs, remote farms, panoramic passes, and curving alpine roads with barely another car in sight. This was such a highlight for us!
Allow 2.5-3hrs to drive the entire loop with plenty of photo stops.
Day 6: Bobotov Kuk hike
Rising to 2,523m, Bobotov Kuk is the tallest peak in Durmitor and the most iconic summit in the park. The trail begins with a steady climb through alpine meadows before transitioning into rocky switchbacks and a fun, final scramble to the summit. While it’s steep in sections, the route isn’t technical, and the payoff is spectacular: sweeping views across the Durmitor range and deep into the surrounding valleys.
Along the way, keep your eyes peeled for chamois darting across the ridgelines— these nimble, goat-like antelope are native to the Balkans and a thrilling sight to catch mid-hike!
- Trailhead: Sedlo Pass parking
- Distance: 10km return
- Elevation gain/loss: 950m
- Time needed: 5-6hrs
Where to eat in Žabljak
Žabljak is a small mountain town with a modest selection of cafes and restaurants, but there are definitely a few gems worth seeking out. Here are our favourite spots to fuel up after a day on the trails:
- Shambhala Bakery: a local favourite and our go-to for breakfast, coffee, and fresh sandwiches or baked goods to pack for the hike
- Nal Restaurant Tara: a great choice for dinner, serving classic Montenegrin dishes like slow-cooked stews, grilled trout, and hearty mountain fare in a warm, rustic setting.
- Krcma Nostalgia: another traditional restaurant that leans heavily into grilled meats; we shared the “butcher’s plate” for 20€ and had enough leftovers to make sandwiches for lunch the following day!
Where to stay in Žabljak
Spend 3 nights in Žabljak, the perfect base for exploring Durmitor National Park. For a modern, self-contained stay within walking distance of town, check out Forma Lux Apartments, or opt for a more indulgent mountain escape at North Story Luxury Chalet, a boutique stay with sweeping views and an exceptional homemade breakfast.
Day 7-8: Maganik Mountains
Next up, explore one of Montenegro’s most remote and untouched mountain regions— the Maganik Mountains, a wild limestone range with craggy peaks, dramatic pillars, and basically zero people. This is true off-the-beaten-path hiking, far from the tourist track and well worth the extra effort to reach!
Getting to the Maganik Mountains
On Day 7, drive ~2hrs from Žabljak to the village of Međurječje, where you can stay in a local guesthouse to position yourself well for a big day of hiking on Day 8. You’ll still have time earlier in the day to squeeze in one final scenic drive or short walk in Durmitor, or even tackle the short but dramatic Mrtvica Canyon hike, which starts just outside of town.
To access the Maganik Mountains the following day, you’ll need to drive over an hour on rough, unsealed roads, much of which requires a 4WD vehicle. Unless you’re travelling in a serious off-road setup, it’s extremely likely that (like us) you’ll need to hire local transport and a hiking guide to explore the area safely. More on that below!
Hiking Trešteni Vrh
On Day 8, head deep into the Maganik range to summit Trešteni Vrh, one of the region’s most rugged and visually striking peaks. Thanks to the combination of remote alpine scenery, fun scrambling, and utter lack of people, this was a true hidden gem, but it’s also one of the least documented areas we visited on the road trip— there’s no marked trail, no signage, and almost no information available online about this route.
Given both the difficulty of 4WD access and the lack of navigational support (even with a GPS, it’s nearly impossible to tell where you’re going), we strongly recommend hiring a local guide. We can personally recommend Ivan (+382 69 369 217), who picked us up in Međurječje, drove ~1.5hrs to the trailhead, and guided us through the route for the very reasonable price of €150 total.
If time and energy allow, you can also make a loop that includes Međeđi Vrh, the highest peak in the range— we didn’t do this because I was already pushing my knee to the max (less than 3 months after surgery), but our guide recommended it highly!
- Trailhead: Planinarski dom “Djatlo”
- Distance: 10km
- Elevation gain/loss: 800m
- Time needed: 6-7hrs
Where to stay in Međurječje
Plan to spend 1 night near Međurječje to position yourself for an early hike in the Maganik Mountains. We recommend Etno House Djurdjevina, a charming stone farmhouse about 20min north of town. There are very few accommodations on Booking.com in this area, so it’s best to search via Google Maps and call ahead to book a local guesthouse directly.
Days 9-10: Prokletije National Park
Heading east now into the “Accursed Mountains”, Prokletije National Park is one of the wildest and most jaw-dropping corners of Montenegro. This dramatic limestone range straddles the border with Albania and Kosovo, boasting jagged peaks, deep glacial valleys, and some of the most scenic hiking in the Balkans. It’s yet another spectacular highlight of this adventure itinerary and widely considered the best hiking in the country!
Getting to Prokletije National Park
After hiking Trešteni Vrh in the Maganik Mountains on Day 8, drive ~3hrs east towards the Albanian border to reach Grebaje Valley, the most convenient base for exploring Prokletije National Park. It makes for a long travel day (we arrived after dark), but sets you up perfectly for two full days of hiking on Days 9–10.
What to do in Prokletije National Park
Day 9: Three Peaks Hike (Volušnica, Talijanka & Popadija)
This is the most iconic day hike in the park, a spectacular loop that summits three dramatic border peaks—Volušnica, Talijanka, and Popadija—with panoramic views into Albania and across the jagged peaks of the Accursed Mountains.
The trail starts from Grebaje Valley and climbs steeply through forest before emerging onto an open ridgeline with nonstop views, including a jaw-dropping look at the Karanfili Massif, one of the park’s most striking landmarks. Expect a bit of scrambling and narrow ridge walking, but nothing technical.
- Trailhead: Grebaje Valley (directly at Bungalows Katun Maja Karanfil)
- Distance: 10km loop
- Elevation gain/loss: 1,000m
- Time needed: 5–6hrs
Day 10: other hike in Prokletije National Park
We’d originally planned to squeeze in a second big hike while staying in Grebaje, but since I was still easing back into hiking just 3 months post-surgery, we didn’t manage anything else… BUT here are a few hikes that were highly recommended by our guesthouse and are top of our list for next time:
- Lake of the Unknown Hero (Jezero Gornje) via Ropojana Valley: a longer but more moderate full-day hike through a dramatic glacial valley to a surreal alpine lake tucked beneath towering cliffs (16km; 600m gain; 6-7hrs)
- Ćafa e Preslopit Pass: a shorter, less exposed alternative starting from Grebaje Valley, great if you want a more relaxed outing with alpine views and a bit of elevation (6km; 500m gain; 2.5–3hrs)
Where to stay in Grebjaje
Spend 3 nights in Grebaje, the best base for hiking in Prokletije National Park. We stayed at Bungalows Katun Maja Karanfil, a rustic but comfortable mountain retreat with wooden cabins, a peaceful garden, and an excellent on-site restaurant— this is the best spot, since it’s located directly at the trailhead! For a slightly more basic but equally scenic option, nearby Ethno Katun ROSI Agrotourism also offers cosy cabins and a traditional atmosphere.
Days 11-12: Virpazar & Lake Skadar
After more than a week in the mountains, it’s time to slow down and enjoy Montenegro’s sunny south—welcome to Virpazar, a laidback village perched on the edge of Lake Skadar, the largest lake in the Balkans. This region is known for its wild natural beauty, birdlife, and family-run wineries, making it the perfect place to relax, sip, and soak in the views.
Getting to Virpazar
On Day 11, wake up in the mountains and drive ~3hrs from Grebaje to Virpazar, winding down from the high peaks to the lakeside. The drive is straightforward, and once you arrive, you’ll find yourself in a completely different landscape— vine-covered hills, warm breezes, and shimmering lake views!
What to do in Virpazar
PM Day 11: Pavlova Strana & Lake Skadar
Kick things off with a scenic drive out to Pavlova Strana, one of the most iconic viewpoints in Montenegro, where the Crnojevića River snakes through a lush horseshoe bend. It’s a must-see for photographers, and there’s no better place to soak it all in than from Konoba Ceklin, a simple local restaurant perched right above the bend where you can enjoy local Balkan cuisine with a million-dollar view.
After lunch, head down to Virpazar town and hop on a 1–2hr boat ride across Lake Skadar, a lily pad-strewn, freshwater paradise. Glide past reed beds, tiny island monasteries, and flocks of native birdlife as you take in the tranquil scenery from the water.
Day 12: wine tasting in Virpazar
Spend the following day visiting some of the family-owned wineries scattered around the hills outside Virpazar. The region is known for Vranac, a bold red varietal native to the Balkans, as well as crisp whites and delicious local rakija.
Our favourite wineries in Virpazar:
- Garnet Winery: a charming boutique winery run by a husband-and-wife team offering 4 excellent wines (white, rose, orange, red) in a beautiful garden setting right outside their home for 18€; you can also pair your wines with local cheeses and meats for a light afternoon snack (35€) → reserve on WhatsApp: +382 67 247 100
- Vinarija Mašanović: a 14th-generation winemakers offering endless tastings (literally: endless) of their bold reds and expansive rakija collection inside a cool stone cellar for 25€; the upgraded tasting with food includes a generous spread of local cheeses, cured meats, smoked fish, and nuts that makes for a huge lunch (35€) → reserve on WhatsApp: +382 68 509 541
- Plantaže Šipčanik: Montenegro’s most famous large-scale winery, located just outside Podgorica, with a tasting room uniquely housed in a former underground aircraft hangar → reserve on their website
Where to stay in Virpazar
Book 2 nights at Hoopoe Glamping, a tranquil eco-retreat tucked among the trees just outside of Virpazar. With stylish canvas bell tents, lush views over the surrounding hills, and the soothing sounds of nature all around, it’s the kind of place that makes you want to slow down and stay longer.
There’s a natural rock pool for cooling off in the afternoon sun, and the on-site restaurant serves up seasonal meals made from locally-sourced ingredients— perfect after a day of wine tasting or exploring the lake. Whether you’re stargazing by the fire pit, sipping Vranac on your private deck, or planning your next waterfall hike, this is an idyllic base for experiencing the more peaceful side of Montenegro.
Days 13-14: Sveti Stefan & the Budva Riviera
Cap off your Montenegro road trip with a few days of sun, sea, and laidback luxury along the Budva Riviera. This stunning stretch of Adriatic coastline is famous for its pebble beaches, turquoise water, and dramatic cliffs, but while many travellers base themselves in Budva— a lively resort town packed with nightlife and holiday crowds— we much preferred Sveti Stefan, just 15 minutes south.
Here, you’ll find equally spectacular beaches, but with a much more peaceful atmosphere, slower pace, and front-row views of Montenegro’s most iconic islet. You could easily linger longer if you’re after a proper beach holiday vibe, but we felt two days is the perfect amount of time if you’re following a larger Balkans itinerary.
Getting to Sveti Stefan
On Day 13, drive ~2hrs from Virpazar to Sveti Stefan, passing through olive groves, coastal hills, and small towns along the way. If you have time, it’s worth detouring slightly to Stari Bar, a partially-ruined fortress town with amazing views and a surprisingly great café scene.
What to do in Sveti Stefan
Spend the afternoon of Day 13 and all of Day 14 soaking up the sunshine and exploring the gorgeous (and woefully underrated) Budva Riviera. There are dozens of beautiful beaches in the area, nearly all of which are free to access, and the atmosphere is far more chilled than you might expect from a coastline this stunning. Check out:
- Sveti Stefan Beach: home to the famous walled islet connected by a narrow spit of land, a Montenegrin icon; while the island itself is owned by a luxury hotel and closed to non-guests, the adjacent public beach is completely free
- Drobni Pijesak: a short drive south brings you to this secluded cove with crystal-clear water, soft golden pebbles, and far fewer people than the beaches near Budva
- Milocer Beach: a 10min walk north along a shaded coastal path, this elegant beach once served as a royal retreat and still has a serene, exclusive feel— backed by pine trees and framed by cliffs, it’s ideal for a quieter swim or a peaceful afternoon with a book
Where to stay in Sveti Stefan
Book 2 nights at B&B Paštrovski Konak, a charming, family-run guesthouse tucked into the hills above Sveti Stefan. Although you’ll sacrifice quick access to the beach (it’s about 10-15min driving from the coast), the reward is sweeping views and a more authentic experience overall that we felt was entirely worth it!
Don’t miss the home-cooked dinner served in the courtyard, a generous spread of local cheeses, garden vegetables, grilled meats, and homemade bread. We shared 1 dinner between 2 people both nights (just €20 total) and were full to the brim!
Day 15: to the airport
On your final morning, enjoy a leisurely breakfast before driving to the airport: ~1hr to Tivat or ~1.5hrs to Podgorica, depending on your flight. Farewell, Montenegro!
Montenegro itinerary extensions
- With a few extra days? Add time in Durmitor National Park to explore more of its endless trails, glacial lakes, and remote summits. If you’re craving more of a holiday, you could also slow things down with an extra few days along the Riviera, soaking up Montenegro’s beautiful coastline, swimming in hidden coves, and enjoying leisurely sunset dinners.
- With 3 weeks? Extend your adventure into northern Albania, crossing the border to hike in the Accursed Mountains near Theth— a natural continuation from Prokletije with similarly dramatic peaks and wild landscapes. Alternatively, begin the itinerary in southern Croatia: spend a day or two exploring the stunning walled city of Dubrovnik, take a ferry to Korčula for charming old towns and beaches, and head to Mljet National Park for forest hikes and saltwater lakes.
- Short on time (7-10 days)? Trim the route to just the mountains, focusing on Durmitor + Prokletije and skipping the southern coast. You’ll get the most rugged scenery, epic hikes, and authentic mountain villages without the long drives.
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