Hiking Petra through the “back door” & off the beaten path: 2-day adventure itinerary
Last Updated on 5 November 2025
An ancient Nabatean city carved deep into the sandstone cliffs of southern Jordan, Petra is unquestionably one of the most awe-inspiring ancient sites in the entire world. Millions have stood at the base of the Treasury, marvelling at 2000 years of history— but few venture deeper into the site and even fewer venture off the main trail to discover the true wonder of the “Rose City”.
We’ve hiked through Petra MANY times, first as part of our own travels and now on the adventure group trips we run in Jordan, and the near-universal reaction among first-timers is shock at the vast expanse of desert peaks, royal tombs, improbable temples, and recently-inhabited caves within Petra. This site is ENORMOUS, and together with a beautiful network of trails, that’s what makes Petra stand out among all other World Wonders and ancient site we’ve ever visited— the opportunity for true adventure off the beaten path and away from the tourist crowds.
This detailed 2-day hiking itinerary will take you on a journey of nearly 30km through Petra’s wonders, beginning with the jaw-dropping “back door” route from Little Petra to the Monastery and Treasury, followed by the even lesser known Al-Madras trail to the High Place of Sacrifice and Wadi Farasa. Trust us when we say this is the BEST way to experience Petra’s highlights AND its hidden gems.
About the ancient city of Petra
Founded c.400 BCE by the Nabataeans, a nomadic Arab tribe who settled in southern Jordan, Petra thrived for centuries as a major trading hub connecting Arabia, Egypt, and the Mediterranean. As trade routes shifted and the Roman Empire expanded, however, Petra gradually declined and was largely abandoned by the 7th century.
For hundreds of years, Petra was known only to local Bedouins who safeguarded its secrets and lived within the city— even today, there are Bedouin families from the B’doul tribe inhabiting the caves of Petra. This site is a living monument to both ancient Nabatean engineering and modern Bedouin heritage, and the tribe has played an essential role in preserving and protecting the legacy of Petra.
About Petra today (Petra vs Wadi Musa)
When people talk about “Petra” today, it can be helpful to understand that they might be referring to any of several distinct sites or locations in this region:
- Petra Archeological Park: the ancient Nabatean city of Petra, which includes the Monastery, Treasury, Little Petra, and over 260 square-km of mountainous desert (the Back Door entrance is shown in orange on the map; the Main Entrance is shown in yellow)
- Wadi Musa (“Moses Valley”): the small town right at the main entrance to the site, with plentiful hotels, restaurants, parking, and bus stops connecting Petra to other parts of Jordan (next to the Main Entrance in yellow)
- Little Petra: this might refer to the archaeological site of Little Petra (which is part of the Petra Archaeological Park, shown in red on the map) OR the collection of Bedouin camps and accommodations that sit just outside the Little Petra Entrance
For some quick reference, Day 1 of this hiking route (shown very roughly in purple) begins in Little Petra, enters Petra Archaeological Park through the Back Door, and exits through the Main Entrance. On Day 2 (shown roughly in blue), you’ll enter and exit through the Main Entrance.
An overview of Petra Archeological Park
Covering more than 260 square km, Petra is absolutely massive—far larger than most people expect when planning a visit! Importantly, it includes ancient Nabatean sites like the Treasury and Royal Tombs within the central part of the park, the Monastery on the upper limit of the park, and even Little Petra, a small annex of the park beyond the Monastery. You’ll explore all of these (and much more!) on this hiking itinerary!
Petra Archaeological Park entrances:
- Main Entrance: located at the Visitor Centre in Wadi Musa, this is the most popular entry point, leading directly through the Siq (a narrow slot canyon) and culminating in a breathtaking reveal of the Treasury
- “Back Door” Entrance: accessible from Little Petra, this quieter route follows the Jordan Trail and leads directly to the Monastery
These 2 entrances are on opposite sides of the site, with the Siq leading to the Treasury in the east (Main Entrance) and the Jordan Trail leading to the Monastery in the west (Back Door).
There are 2 primary entrances to Petra:
- Main Entrance: located at the Visitor Centre in Wadi Musa, this is the most popular route, leading through the Siq, a narrow slot canyon, and culminating in a breathtaking reveal of the Treasury (Al-Khazneh)
- “Back Door” Entrance: accessible from Little Petra (Siq al-Barid), this quieter route follows the Jordan Trail and leads directly to the Monastery (Ad-Deir)
These 2 entrances are on opposite sides of the site, with the Siq leading to the Treasury in the east (Main Entrance) and the Jordan Trail leading to the Monastery in the west (Back Door). For this itinerary, you’ll enter the site from Little Petra “through the back door” to the Monastery and exit via the Siq on Day 1; then re-enter the site on a spur trail and exit via Wadi Farasa OR the Siq on Day 2 (depending on your energy). This route ensures you experience Petra from multiple perspectives, both its most famous AND most spectacular!
*2-day Petra hiking itinerary
This itinerary packs A LOT into 2 days, but it guarantees you’ll see absolutely ALL of Petra’s highlights, as well as many of its lesser visited corners and hidden gems.
Here’s an overview of the hiking route and a GPS track you can download for use on your phone, plus heaps more detail about each stop on the itinerary below:
Day 1: Little Petra to Petra “through the back door“
(14km; 610m gain) + 3km for Petra By Night
- Shuttle/taxi from Wadi Musa to Little Petra entrance
- Little Petra (Painted Biclinium, Triclinium)
- Al Beidha (Bayda)
- Hike along the Jordan Trail to enter Petra via the “back door”
- Monastery (Ad-Deir)
- Qasr al-Bint, Great Temple, The Church & Nymphaeum
- Royal Tombs
- Bedouin caves
- Street of Façades & the Treasury (Al-Khazneh)
- Exit via the Siq to Wadi Musa
- 8.30-10.30pm Petra By Night (every night except Fri/Sat)
- Overnight: Wadi Musa
Day 2: Al Madras Trail
(9km; 500m gain)
- Enter Petra via the Siq
- Treasury (Al-Khazneh)— optimal early morning light
- High Place of Sacrifice
- Theatre
- Exit via the Siq to Wadi Musa
Day 1: Little Petra to the Monastery & Treasury (Petra through the “back door”)
Little Petra (Painted Biclinium, Triclinium, etc)
Before venturing into the open desert, take time to explore Little Petra (Siq al-Barid), a Nabataean settlement believed to have housed traders and travellers along the Silk Road in the 1st century.
Key highlights include the Painted Biclinium, adorned with rare frescoes, and the Triclinium, thought to be a banquet hall for feasts and ceremonies. I particularly loved exploring the steep stone staircases carved into the cliffs, leading to hidden second-story caves and lofty viewpoints!
Al Beidha (Bayda)
Departing now from the car park of Little Petra, the trail meanders through open desert terrain for 20min, leading first to the small ruins of Al Beidha, also called Bayda. This site offers a fascinating glimpse into Nabataean daily life, with remnants of ancient houses, farming terraces, and cisterns that speak to their masterful water management—an essential skill in this arid landscape.
Al Beidha is actually one of the oldest archaeological sites in the region, predating Petra by thousands of years. Allow about 15min to wander through the ruins and read the informational plaques here before continuing along the route.
Monastery (Ad-Deir)
Following the Jordan Trail for the next 1-2hrs, the path winds through rugged desert landscapes and climbs gently toward the Monastery, entering Petra through the “back door”.
The final stretch involves a series of undulating stone steps that suddenly reveal the Monastery (Ad-Deir), a colossal and intricately carved Nabataean structure perched high above Petra. We knew the Treasury would be breathtaking, but we had no idea just how stunning (and massive) the Monastery is!
Arriving from this direction feels like discovering a hidden treasure, far removed from the bustling Siq (and blissfully avoiding the masses on the 850-step journey from the Treasury). Take a break at one of the nearby Bedouin cafés to eat lunch and soak in the views before descending deeper into Petra.
Colonnaded Street
Descend steeply from the Monastery for about 40min through a maze of stone steps and narrow alleys, some of which are lined by small textile shops and pomegranate juice vendors, to emerge onto Petra’s Colonnaded Street.
This is the beating heart of both the ancient city and the modern archaeological site, a massive thoroughfare that connects many of Petra’s temples, churches, and tombs— expect to be absolutely blown away by the sprawl. There are cafes, bathrooms, and even a few shady places to sit if you’re in need of a rest before continuing into the intense sun of the cobbled street.
Qasr al-Bint
The first notable site you’ll encounter along the Colonnaded Street is Qasr al-Bint, one of the best-preserved freestanding temples in the city. Dedicated to Dushara, the Nabataean god of the mountains and protector of the people, this grand structure served as a central place of worship. Despite centuries of earthquakes and erosion, Qasr al-Bint remains remarkably intact, a testament to the Nabataeans’ engineering prowess and the importance of religion in their society.
Great Temple, The Church & Nymphaeum
Continue along the main colonnaded street for a few minutes to the sprawling Great Temple, believed to have served as a civic or ceremonial centre—you’ll have the best view from The Church or the Temple of the Winged Lions across the street.
From here, easily visit The Church, famous for its beautiful 5-6th century mosaic floors depicting animals and plants, and then stop by the Nymphaeum, a public fountain that once provided water to the city.
*1-day Petra itinerary*
If you don’t have time for a second day in Petra, it’s technically possible to condense this itinerary into one VERY LONG day by visiting the Royal Tombs and High Place of Sacrifice at this point in the hike—you can find more info under the Day 2 description below.
You really need 2hrs+ to do justice to these areas, so I wouldn’t recommend cramming them in unless you’re finished with central Petra by 2pm!
Street of Façades & the Treasury (Al-Khazneh)
Finally, leave central Petra behind to stroll about 15min towards the Street of Façades, a section of narrowing canyon lined with elaborate tombs. As you round tight corners, the iconic Treasury (Al-Khazneh) is finally revealed and it’s hard not to gasp as you lay eyes on this masterpiece for the first time.
With the façade glowing with warm afternoon light, the Treasury is guaranteed to take your breath away—which is why it makes its way onto this 2-day itinerary twice (or even 3x, if you manage to catch Petra By Night)!
When you eventually manage to pull away from the grandeur of the Treasury, exit Petra via the Siq, a narrow slot canyon that winds 1.5km all the way to the Visitor Centra (and main entrance) in Wadi Musa. This walk is absolutely spectacular, and as much as we love the “back door” route to Petra, the ONE thing you miss out on is the grand reveal of the Treasury through the narrow walls of the Siq. Returning for Petra By Night and a 2nd day of exploration via the Siq, you’ll see exactly what we mean.
Petra By Night
A magical experience bringing the Treasury to life under the glow of 1,500 candles, Petra By Night is an incredibly unique way to experience this ancient wonder! The event runs every Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 8.30-10.30pm, beginning with an atmospheric stroll through the candle-lit Siq canyon before arriving at the Treasury amidst traditional Bedouin music. Tickets are 17JOD on top of your entrance fee (sadly not covered by the Jordan Pass) and can be purchased night-of at the Visitor Centre.
For this itinerary, Petra By Night works perfectly as an evening activity on either Day 1 or Day 2, depending on which days you’re there.
Day 2: Treasury, Royal Tombs & High Place of Sacrifice via the Siq
Treasury (Al-Khazneh)
For the second day of exploring Petra, you’ll finally get the incredible reveal promised by the Siq—from the Visitor Centre, it’s a relatively flat 1.5km walk (20min if you’re hustling) through a beautiful slot canyon that terminates right at the spectacular façade of the Treasury.
To avoid the crowds, aim to arrive between 7-8am; you’ll also get the best photos prior to 9am, when sun starts creeping down the cliff face and making exposure a little difficult.
Al-Khubtha Trail & Treasury viewpoints CLOSURE:
You may have seen beautiful photos from one of several high viewpoints above the Treasury, but as of 2024, the Jordanian government permanently closed both the official route and restricted access to all unauthorised viewpoints in order to better preserve the site. We’d encourage you to respect this closure and instead find creative ways to photograph the Treasury from below— or enjoy other aerial viewpoints, such as the High Place of Sacrifice!
High Place of Sacrifice
From the Treasury, walk along the Street of Façades to find the start of a steep trail on your left side, just behind the Why Not Shop and a block of bathrooms. It’s a 20min climb up several hundred stone steps to reach the High Place of Sacrifice, one of Petra’s most sacred places and certainly the best aerial view of the site.
The climb is steep but rewarding, offering panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and Petra’s sprawling ruins, particularly the Royal Tombs (which you’ll visit next). Look for the ceremonial altar, carved into the cliffs, which was used for animal sacrifice and other rituals.
Roman Theatre
Descending from the High Place of Sacrifice, you’ll first encounter Petra’s enormous Theatre, an architectural marvel carved directly into the rose-red rock. Built by the Nabataeans in the 1st century CE and later expanded by the Romans, the Theatre could seat up to 8,500 spectators, making it one of the largest in the ancient world.
Royal Tombs
From the Theatre, continue along the Colonnaded Street toward the Royal Tombs. These majestic and intricately carved façades are thought to have served as burial places for Petra’s elite and reflect the Nabataeans’ reverence for the afterlife.
There are 4 main tombs to explore here, each with its own fascinating history, and we’d recommend visiting them from left to right:
- Palace Tomb: The largest and most elaborate of the Royal Tombs, this grand structure resembles a Roman palace, with multiple levels of columns and decorative niches (1st photo below)
- Corinthian Tomb: With its ornate columns and carved details, this tomb displays a blend of Nabataean and Roman architectural styles, reminiscent of the Treasury (pictured above)
- Silk Tomb: Named for the vivid, swirling patterns in its sandstone façade, this tomb is a spectacular kaleidoscope of colour and a photographer’s playground (2nd photo below)
- Urn Tomb: Distinguished by its vast, vaulted chamber, the Urn Tomb was later converted into a Byzantine church in the 5th century CE, as evidenced by inscriptions and modifications inside (3rd photo below)
Bedouin caves
Making your way down from the Royal Tombs towards the Street of Façades, you’ll pass through a part of the site rich with Bedouin caves, many of which were inhabited by families as recently as 1985.
You’ll have the best experience here with a B’doul guide who can share his own history with you, but even visiting the caves on your own is worthwhile to gain insight into modern local life in Petra. Finally, descend wooden stairs and a small bridge that leads to the Why Not Shop where you ascended to the High Place of Sacrifice and make your way out of the site via the Siq back to Wadi Musa.
Petra logistics
Petra tickets & the Jordan Pass
Although it is possible to purchase entry tickets to Petra at the gate for 50JOD ($70USD), the cheapest and best option is to pre-purchase the Jordan Pass before arriving in the country.
The Jordan Pass packages together entrance to nearly all of the historical landmarks in Jordan (Petra, Amman Citadel, Jerash, Wadi Rum, etc) AND waives the cost of a Jordan visa, which is otherwise 40JOD ($60USD). The cheapest Jordan Pass costs 70JOD ($100USD), but if you’re following this itinerary, make sure to purchase the “Jordan Explorer”, which includes 2 days of consecutive visits to Petra for only 5JOD more.
Getting to Petra
There are a few important
- Petra Archeological Park: the ancient Nabatean city, which includes the Monastery, Treasury, and Little Petra, among many other significant sites
- Wadi Musa: a small town right at the entrance to the site, with plentiful hotels, restaurants, parking, and bus stops connecting Petra to other parts of Jordan
- Little Petra: might refer to Little Petra Archaeological Site, a compact
The small town of Wadi Musa serves as the primary gateway to Petra, and it’s here you’ll find the Visitor Centre, museum, bus stops, and a variety of accommodations just minutes from the site. On the opposite side of the archaeological site, Little Petra
For this itinerary, however, we’d specifically recommend staying your first night in Little Petra (on the opposite side of the archaeological site) and your second night in Wadi Musa, since this is where each day of hiking starts and finishes!
- Driving: Wadi Musa is approximately 3hrs from Amman, 2hrs from Wadi Rum, and 3hrs from the Dead Sea. Parking is available near the Petra Visitor Centre and at some of the hotels in town (just be sure to check).
- Jett Bus: The Jett Bus from Amman is a convenient and affordable option, taking around 3.5hrs to reach Wadi Musa (buses depart and arrive at the Visitor Centre).
We always use DiscoverCars to find the best deals on car rental whenever we travel— in this case, we hired a tiny little car (amazing on fuel!) for just $12/day through MonteCarlo/RightCars. This is a small Jordanian company, but they offered a free airport shuttle to their offsite rental office and were super easy to work with, so we’re happy to recommend.
Be sure to book through DiscoverCars for free cancellation & other trip benefits!
Staying in Wadi Musa or Little Petra
There are several ways to approach this 2-day hiking itinerary, which begins in Little Petra and ends in Wadi Musa (on opposite ends of the archaeological site):
- stay in Little Petra before the 1st day of hiking (Night 0) and then stay in Wadi Musa between the 1st and 2nd days of hiking (Night 1)– this is what we always do with our adventure groups, since it positions you perfectly for the back door hike and allows you to experience a Bedouin camp in Little Petra, which is a super fun experience!
OR
- stay both nights in Wadi Musa
Where to stay in Wadi Musa
For this itinerary, you’ll want to stay in Wadi Musa for at least 2 nights, both before and in between your 2 days of hiking. Here’s where we’d recommend:
- Silk Road Hotel: Located near the Petra Visitor Centre, this hotel offers convenient access for the early start to your second day in Petra. Comfortable and well-situated, it’s perfect for unwinding after a long day of hiking.
- Petra Plaza Hotel: Slightly higher up the hill (a 5JOD taxi up & a comfortable 15min stroll down), this is a lovely hotel with friendly staff and comfortable rooms. We stayed here and our friends stayed at Silk Road; Petra Plaza is a little nicer, but the location isn’t quite as convenient, so it’s best to let current prices decide!
- Mövenpick: If your budget can handle it, this is by far the most luxurious AND most convenient hotel in Wadi Musa, located spitting distance from the Main Entrance. We stopped in for drinks on one of our afternoons in Petra and managed to slip our way into their “Chocolate Hour”, a daily fondue fountain free to guests in the lobby—simply delightful.
Where to eat in Wadi Musa
During our 3 days in Petra, we tried a variety of restaurants and these are the ones we’re happiest to recommend:
- My Mom’s Recipe: A must-visit for authentic Jordanian food—try the mansaf, Jordan’s national dish of lamb cooked in fermented yogurt and served over rice.
- The Cave Bar: Situated in a real 2,000-year-old Nabataean tomb just outside Petra’s main entrance, this bar is a great spot for a drink after a long day of hiking. Prices are high, but comparable to what you’ll pay elsewhere in Jordan for alcohol ($10 beer, $15 cocktail)— overall, worth it for the atmosphere!
- Reem Beladi Restaurant: Friendly local spot with good food and shisha; although they don’t list shawarma sandwiches on their menu anymore, they’ll happily make you a wrap for 2JOD and it’s one of the best value, easy meals in town.
- Sana’a Yemen Restaurant: For something different, this Yemeni restaurant is a short walk up the hill in Wadi Musa and offers incredible authentic Yemeni dishes (order the saltah, it is AMAZING). Can’t get enough salta? Read this post on our recent trip to Socotra, Yemen COMING SOON
Packing list for hiking Petra
- Day pack: a small 18-25L pack should be more than enough for the day
- Water bottle
- Picnic lunch and/or snacks: there are several cafes and restaurants within Petra where you can buy lunch, but it’s also possible to BYO and eat while enjoying your favourite view
- Sun hat + sunscreen
- Hiking clothes: we are both obsessed with Vuori as the ultimate travel & adventure clothing, especially in the Middle East
- Comfortable walking shoes: I wore my trusty Blundstones and James wore adidas running shoes
- Camera
- Jordan Pass: package together entry to 35 historical sites in Jordan (including Petra) AND visa costs for the absolute best deal!
Read more about Jordan
- Our favourite places in Jordan (after travelling for 1 month!) COMING SOON
- The ultimate 10-day Jordan roadtrip itinerary COMING SOON
- Hiking the Jordan Trail from Dana to Petra: Jordan’s best 5-day hike
- Wadi Rum, Jordan: desert adventure guide for hikers, climbers & photographers COMING SOON
