Socotra travel journal: our epic 8-day roadtrip in Yemen

A magical little island adrift in the Indian Ocean, Socotra protects pristine beaches, high-elevation forests, sparkling wadis, rippling sand dunes, and 700 plant & animal species found nowhere else on earth. Despite surging internet popularity, we were delighted to find the island so rugged and entirely uncommercialised, home to rich local culture and a charming isolation entirely uncorrupted by tourism. It seems that the strict visa requirements, remote location, and twice-weekly flights are a pretty good limiter!

During our 4-month stint in the Middle East this autumn, James and I flew (first to Abu Dhabi and then) to the impossibly wild island of Socotra, where we spent 8 spectacular days camping under Dragon’s Blood Trees, on empty white-sand beaches, and next to hidden swimming holes. I’d built this destination up in my head for years, but somehow it still managed to exceed every expectation.

Planning your own trip to Socotra? Be sure to read my Socotra Travel Guide, which includes detailed information about flight and visa logistics, campsite amenities, destinations on the island, what to pack & more! COMING SOON

A massive thank you to Eye of Socotra for hosting us on a private tour in exchange for an honest review of our experience. As always, all opinions and recommendations in this post are entirely my own.

DAY 1: Detwah Beach

After a short 2hr flight from Abu Dhabi, we landed at Socotra International Airport, greeted by our energetic guide Ahmed and our driver Ali, who whisked us straight into Hadibo, the island’s bustling capital.

Here, we enjoyed an authentic Socotri lunch of freshly grilled fish and malawah (a soft Yemeni bread that became an instant favourite) while getting to know the boys who’d be accompanying us around the island for the next week.

With full bellies, we began our journey west along the coastline toward Qalansiya, where Detwah Beach awaited. As we approached, a bright crescent of sand stretched endlessly before us, framed by turquoise waters and rocky hills. Part of a UNESCO-listed marine habitat, Detwah Beach is home to unique species of fish and crustaceans, and is rightfully one of Socotra’s most photographed locations.

After pitching our tent right on the sand, we set off on a 20min hike over the rocks to visit Albdullah, also known as Ellai, a friendly Socotri man who was born in a large oceanfront cave and has recently become something of an international sensation after sharing some of his stories with a journalist.

We sat cross-legged on smooth stone, sipping steaming cups of tea as he regaled us with tales of his most eccentric guests before leading us into the tide pools to show us where he fishes— barehanded, like his ancestors.

He plucked fresh oysters straight from the rocks and cracked them open on the spot, pointed to a sassy eel darting through the water, plucked a purple sea potato from the sand, and even cupped a bloated puffer fish right up to his face. James managed to step on a crab in all the excitement and was lucky to emerge from the fray with all ten toes.

As the sun began to dip low along the horizon, we hiked slowly back to camp, stopping to admire the view from a hill overlooking Detwah Beach. The textures of the low tide below were mesmerising, and the colours of the sunset painted the sky in rich hues of pink and orange. It was the perfect introduction to Socotra’s otherworldly beauty, and we fell asleep to the sound of gentle waves lapping the shore.

DAY 2: Shoab Beach & Firmhin Reserve

The morning began with a simple breakfast at camp before driving a short distance to Qalansiya to meet our private boat. Setting off from the harbour, we cruised for over an hour along the rugged coastline, marvelling at towering cliffs that plunged into the turquoise sea.

We didn’t manage to see the dolphins that this area is famed for, but did motor right into an incredible swarm of sardines that almost seemed to swallow our little boat and, don’t worry, we got our dolphin encounter a few days later!

Arriving at Shoab Beach was like stepping into a postcard: pristine white sands, crystal-clear waters, and a backdrop of rugged cliffs. Part of the Dihamri Marine Protected Area that we’d visit again on Day 4, this beach supports vibrant coral reefs and a wealth of marine life. We spent the better part of 2hrs wandering the beach, snapping photos, and soaking in its untouched beauty.

Around midday, we stepped off the island and returned to Detwah Beach for a quick lunch. Though our original plan was to camp here a second night, our guide Ahmed instead suggested we pack up early and head into the forest to spend a night true wild camping beneath the trees. 

The drive into the mountains was an adventure in itself, as we climbed steeply to about 1,200m above sea level along one of the roughest roads I’ve seen in my entire life. We were elated not to be the ones driving…

Our first glimpse of the iconic Dragon’s Blood Trees came as we rounded a bend in the road—majestic, umbrella-shaped trees dotting the landscape like something out of a fantasy novel.

These ancient trees, unique to the island and dating back more than 20 million years, produce a dark red sap known as “dragon’s blood,” which has been used for centuries as dye, medicine, and incense. Dragon’s Blood Trees thrive at high altitudes, and Firmhin Reserve is home to the island’s largest concentration, a thick forest of mystical trees and wild scrub.

Along the way, we picked up a local man who had been hiking to his home near the valley floor. Standing precariously on the outside of the driver’s door, hands gripping the window frame, he rode with us for over an hour before jumping off at his house to grab a jug of fresh sour milk that he delightedly foisted upon us.

Ahmed had told us earlier that this was a Socotri delicacy, made by beating goat’s milk inside a dried leather pouch (made of the goat’s own skin), and the taste was distinctly ham-like—ironically, the one taste we couldn’t really describe to our Muslim hosts.

As the light faded, we drove deeper into Firmhin Reserve to finally reach our campsite after 3hrs, surrounded by hundreds of Dragon’s Blood Trees silhouetted against the brilliant glow of the Milky Way. It was our favourite campsite of the entire trip and one of the best nights we’ve ever spent outdoors, the kind of evening you can barely tear yourself away from and that we’ll certainly never forget.

DAY 3: Dragon’s Blood Forest & Zahek Sand Dunes

Waking up in the heart of the Dragon’s Blood Forest was almost indescribable. Under the thick blanket of a moonless night, only the trees immediately around our tent had been visible, but as dawn broke, we stuck our head out into the cool morning air to find ourselves surrounded by an entire sea of Dragon’s Blood Trees, their umbrella-like canopies casting long shadows over the rocky ground.

We spent the morning exploring the surreal landscape, wandering between the ancient trees, and soaking in the peacefulness of a magical place that hardly seemed real.

Leaving our campsite behind after several hundred photos, we backtracked slightly along the rough road we’d driven last night and hiked to a high point in the forest for panoramic views. In every direction, Dragon’s Blood Trees covered the rocky landscape. 

On our way out of the reserve, we were stopped by a local man who said his grandmother wanted to paint my face— a Socotri tradition reserved only for women and seen as a symbol of beauty amongst the locals. 

We entered their simple stone house and sat cross-legged on the floor to wait for the woman, frankincense hanging thick in the air between us. Before long, the family’s crinkly-eyed matriarch entered and sat opposite me, collecting red paste onto her fingers— made from ground-up resin and a bit of water— and smearing it all over my face. 

She couldn’t speak a single word of English, but wordlessly passed something ancient and beautiful to me through this tradition, granting me a glimpse of her culture that felt completely authentic and unspoilt and raw. 

Politely declining the offer for sour milk, we drove onwards down from the mountains to a secluded beach for lunch before heading to Degob Cave. This massive limestone cavern is a striking example of Socotra’s karst topography, with dramatic stalactites forming jagged fangs at the entrance of its gaping mouth.

By late afternoon, we arrived at the Zahek Sand Dunes, a surreal expanse of pure white sand piled high against dark volcanic rock. As the sun set, James and I climbed to the top of the dunes for breathtaking views, the golden light casting long shadows across the sand. As usual, we enjoyed the scenery without another soul in sight.

DAY 4: Kalysan & Dihamri

The morning began with a bumpy two-hour drive into the mountains to Kalysan Wadi, where we descended on foot to a stunning oasis of white stone and clear, blue water. The refreshing swim that followed was one of the highlights of our trip.

After climbing back out of the wadi, we stopped for a picnic lunch in a secluded grove of bottle trees, another of Socotra’s extraordinary plants that completely captivated my photographic attention.

Endemic to the island, the bottle tree is instantly recognisable for its bulbous, water-storing trunk, and delicate pink blossoms— the principle bloom happens in February and March, but we were delighted to learn that select bottle trees bloom throughout the year and we saw plenty of trees erupted in colourful flowers. 

Locally known as desert roses, these peculiar trees seem almost alien, adding to the island’s otherworldly charm. Their swollen trunks serve not only as water reservoirs, but also as a testament to the ingenuity of nature in harsh environments, a captivating symbol of Socotra’s biodiversity.

Our next stop was the Dihamri Marine Protected Area, one of the most biodiverse coastal spots on the island. Known for its vibrant coral reefs and over 200 species of fish, the reserve is also a haven for sea turtles and rays. Though tempted by the local dive shop, we’d racked up over 20 dives in the Red Sea recently and therefore opted for snorkelling instead.

Just a few metres from the beach, we were already swimming among a kaleidoscope of tropical fish, darting eels, and even a curious sea turtle. Back on land, I was equally enchanted by the assortment of dried corals that formed the beach, the most spectacular patterns crunching beneath our feet as we walked in golden light back to our little hut.

Most tour groups camp elsewhere due to the expense of staying at the reserve, but only the best from Eye of Socotra! We pitched our solitary tent right in front of the water and spent our most comfortable night of camping relaxing in a stone hut, listening to music, and digging into a spectacular dinner of fried octopus, barbecued chicken, and the usual Yemeni accompaniments before falling asleep to the gentle sound of waves.

DAY 5: Homhil & Earesel

Waking up at our peaceful beachfront camp in Dihamri to unexpected rain, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast waiting for the weather to pass before driving up yet another rough road into the mountains. Today’s primary destination would be Homhil, a freshwater rock pool jutting out over the cliffs with views down to the Arabian Sea. 

After about an hour of ascending the cliffs, we reached the end of the road and grabbed our day bag to finish the journey on foot. The walk can’t have been more than a kilometre, but we made slow progress stopping constantly to photograph the spectacular landscape— the only place on the island we’ve seen the Dragon’s Blood Tree, Bottle Tree, Fig Tree, Cucumber Tree, Frankincense, AND date palm all clustered together, all of Socotra’s most unique plant life in a single environment. 

Our guide had artfully coordinated our arrival to the quietest day of the week and the only other people at the pools left just as we dropped our bags, leaving us to enjoy Homhil in complete solitude. 

And it absolutely lived up to its reputation as one of the most spectacular stops on the trip, a sparkling emerald pool perched on the edge of the limestone cliff, almost like a natural infinity pool suspended in space above the sea below. Rather curiously, there were crabs running along the perimeter of the pool, but it had no impact on our swimming, leaping wildly into the pool from every ledge. 

Once we reluctantly dragged ourselves away, we began a long descent down a rocky trail to meet the car about 40min below (an optional hike we’d requested in the interest of more time outside). I was just wearing athletic sandals, but James was glad to be in adidas trail running shoes! After lunch in a small hut between a few local homes, we drove onwards a further 30min to our camp for the night at the base of the amazing Arher Sand Dunes. This too precipitated a flurry of photo-snapping.

Just before sunset, we ventured to Irissel Beach, the farthest eastern tip of the island, and were rewarded with the sight of an enormous pod of dolphins playing in the shallows.

They leapt joyfully from the water, as if putting on a private show just for us—and with the drone, we had an incredible aerial vantage point. Both James and I could have cried from excitement, especially since we missed dolphins around Shoab Beach earlier in the trip. 

Giddy from the afternoon’s dolphin sighting, Ahmed stopped on the way back to camp to buy us each a khautra— traditional Socotrian scarves used for sitting while watching tv or hanging out. 

We were initially confused by the purpose of these itchy wool sashes, but once explained to us, James and I both spent the rest of the evening sitting in cross-legged bliss with our new khautra while smoking shisha with the owner of our tour company, Omar, whose infectious laughter and endless stories made for a perfect end to the day.

DAY 6: Hoq Cave & Arher Beach

After driving to a small village near the base of Hoq Cave, we met up with a local guide and began the steep, sweaty, and violently sunny climb to the cave entrance. Ahmed kept spirits high by insisting that we were the fastest hikers he’d ever guided—a point of pride that carried us up the trail in 25min rather than the quoted hour, but that did little to help with our beet-red faces. 

Reaching the mouth of the cave brought instant relief, as the cool air inside washed over us. Hoq Cave is a 13km-long labyrinth of stalactites and other limestone formations, and though we explored only the first few kilometres, it felt endless. Ahmed’s flashlight illuminated intricate patterns on the walls, and the sheer scale of the cavern left us in awe.

Once we’d journeyed back out of the cave and down to the village, our driver Ali had prepared a delicious lunch for us to enjoy cross-legged in the shade with several of the local villagers before we hopped back in car and returned to our camp on Arher Beach, where we spent the rest of the day swimming, relaxing, and smoking shisha with Omar.

DAY 7: Arher Sand Dunes & Hadibo

On our penultimate day on Socotra, we woke at 5am to see the sunset over the dunes and were greeted by crisp, clear skies. We excitedly threw camera gear into the car, drove a short distance up the road to the base of the largest dunes, and began a slow trudge up the white sand to a high vantage point.

At this stage in our travels through the Middle East, we’ve seen a lot of sand dunes— from Jordan to Oman to Egypt and even elsewhere in Socotra— but Arher still managed to blow us away. Nowhere else have we really seen such striking white dunes plummeting dramatically between granite cliffs and the ocean. The landscape is totally improbable and one of the most beautiful sunrises we’ve enjoyed in a long time.

After wandering around the dunes for several hours in search of the most beautiful photography angles, we slid quickly down to the car and returned to pack up our final camp in Arher. 

Our guides had adjusted our schedule to bring us back to Hadibo for the afternoon to experience some of the local life in Socotra’s capital— an opportunity to eat more Yemeni food (our beloved salta, a Yemeni stew served with giant, fluffy bread) to wander through the bustling streets, and even squeeze in our first indoor shower of the trip before getting on a plane back to UAE tomorrow. The hotel was basic, but we were delighted by the opportunity to repack our sandy suitcases and wash our equally sandy hair.

Omar and Ahmed walked us to a local shop to try on traditional Socotri attire, gifting James a fota (a type of wrap-around skirt worn by men on the island) and then we capped off our final night on the island by driving out to the beach with Omar and his cousin to smoke shisha. Sitting on a pile of cushions, listening to the waves crash gently in front of us, we couldn’t have imagined a better end to our time on this magical island.

DAY 8: Hadibo & back to Socotra Airport

All too soon, it was time to say goodbye to the magical island of Socotra. Ahmed and Ali picked us up from our hotel and, after a hearty breakfast of tasty Yemeni fare and a quick visit to the local fish market, we were whisked over to the airport. By late morning, we were reluctantly boarding our flight to Abu Dhabi.

As the island disappeared beneath the clouds, we found ourselves reflecting on the surreal beauty of the past week—the Dragon’s Blood Forests, pristine beaches, towering dunes, and the warmth of the Socotri people. Socotra wasn’t just a destination; it was an adventure unlike any other. 

Read more about Socotra

Socotra travel guide COMING SOON