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brooke beyond

Asia / Laos

(Accidentally) Erotic Massages in Laos

23 January 2014

Last Updated on 22 October 2021

Now preparing to bid Vientiane farewell, we try to save money by buying tickets direct from the bus station rather than the hotel. We hire bikes and pedal 8kms to the station, only to learn that the price is actually the same. In an effort to salvage the day, we ride off in search of a massage parlour, hoping someone can rub the embarrassment right out of us. Despite having an address and vague directions, we get hopelessly lost and settle for a random spa that we’ve just stumbled across.

We enjoy a stifling herbal sauna in the rear of some man’s home, and then are called individually for the massage component of the evening. Aristo goes first, while I endure total sensory deprivation in the pitch-black sauna. Eventually, I get my knock and make my way out in the light, passing Aristo in the process, who looks at me with wide eyed fear and mouths something that looks puzzlingly like “foreskin”.

Before I know much what to expect, I’m in the next room with our nice Asian host—a Japanese man, as it were. I make a move to lie on the table, which looks suspiciously picnic-like, but I don’t even make it horizontal before I have my swim bottoms ripped off.

Now I’m lying on the table, taking off my top as per instruction, and I’m getting some sort of exfoliating leg massage. The next hour is a blur of shower gel and foaming cleansers and, yes, loofahs.

I can now definitively confirm that Aristo did indeed whisper what I thought he whispered. This man spares no crease in his “massage”. Intermittently, I get warm water thrown over me to wash off the soap— a pleasant, albeit shocking, surprise.

By the end of the massage, it seems ridiculous to assume any sort of modesty, considering I may as well have just gotten a gynaecological exam on his dinner table, so I stand and shake his hand, praying that it is neither Laotian nor Japanese custom to hug.

Read more about our travels through Laos:

BATTLING HYPOTHERMIA TO REACH VIENTIANE

PHOTO JOURNAL: OFF TO LUANG PRABANG

TREKKING ALONG THE NAM KHAN RIVER IN LAOS

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brooke beyond

Hey, I'm Brooke and I'm obsessed with getting off the beaten path, exploring backcountry gems & travelling beyond the ordinary! I left Australia 6 years ago after finishing a PhD in Biomechanics & have been travelling the world full-time ever since (joined by my husband/climbing partner, James). Whether it’s road-tripping through Mexico, climbing alpine peaks in the Andes, scuba diving in the Red Sea, or tackling epic via ferrata in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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The Comments

  • Adam Hall
    25 November 2023

    Your story of the massage in Laos is hilarious, he’s one lucky masseuse! If he’d tried that in the U.S. he’d be sued so quickly his head would be spinning, lol.

    Reply
    • brooke brisbine
      Adam Hall
      26 November 2023

      Haha so true!!

      Reply

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hi, I’m brooke!

I'm obsessed with getting off the beaten path, exploring backcountry gems & travelling beyond the ordinary! I left Australia 6 years ago after finishing a PhD in Biomechanics & have been travelling the world full-time ever since (now joined by my husband/climbing partner, James). I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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recent posts

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    20 February 2026
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    Complete Lofoten winter packing list: what to wear for hiking in Arctic Norway

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@brookebeyond_
brooke ✨travel & mountain gal

@brookebeyond_

  • A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
  • magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
  • With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
  • a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
  • The exact layers I wore for chilly winter hiking all through January in Lofoten ☃️

see the complete list at 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-packing-list

——
#norway #lofoten #winterhiking #layering #winterstyle
  • Everything we spent for 2 people travelling around Norway for 5 weeks in January 2026:

**this is not meant to represent the cheapest way to explore Norway in winter, it’s just what we personally spent for one of the best trips of our whole lives!!

$6,388 ACCOMMODATION
🏡35 nights in apartments/cabins = $6,388

$2,785 TRANSPORTATION
✈️ airfare = $647
🚘 car hire = $1,807
⛽️ fuel + parking = $113
🚕 private transport (Uber) = $111
🚃 public transport (train) = $107

$1,699 FOOD & DRINKS
🧁 bakery treats = $103
🍹 drinks = $152
🌮 eating out = $611
🧀 groceries = $833

$1,155 ACTIVITIES
🔥 sauna entry = $302
🐋 tours = $853

$27 TRAVEL LOGISTICS
📲 eSIM = $27

TOTAL…
—> $12,054 USD for 2 people over 35 days
—> an average of $172/day per person

Is this more or less than you expected??

———
#norway #norwaytravel #lofoten #tromsø #travelbudget
  • Although sauna culture is shared across much of the Nordic region, Norway has put its own spin on the tradition with thousands of floating, fjord-side saunas (that I am truly obsessed with).

In many coastal towns, these wood-fired saunas are moored right in the harbour, with a hatch or ladder that drops straight into the icy fjord for a cold plunge. The result is a distinctly Norwegian winter ritual: alternating intense heat and 3C seawater while surrounded by dramatic mountain and fjord scenery 😍

a few of our favourite floating saunas in Norway:
📍 Fjordsauna, Flåm @fjordsauna 
📍 Vulkana Arctic Spa Boat, Tromsø @vulkana.adventure 
📍 Pust Lavvo Sauna, Tromsø @pust.lifestyle 
📍 KOK Langkaia, Oslo @kokoslo.no 
📍 Soria Moria Sauna, Dalen @dalenhotel 

———
#sauna #floatingsauna #norway #scandinavia #winterescape
  • Nearly 2,000 stone steps (installed by a Nepalese Sherpa team in 2021) have transformed Reinebringen from a notoriously dangerous ascent into a straightforward hike to the most iconic viewpoint in all of Lofoten!

In good winter conditions, it’s a steep but spectacular ~45min push.

But in POOR winter conditions? Or with no experience + insufficient winter gear?? It’s a drain on the Norwegian search & rescue teams who keep having to haul tourists off the mountain.

I’m expecting some criticism for even posting about hiking Reinebringen in winter, but I believe strongly in personal accountability + responsibility in the outdoors, so I hope this empowers you to make an informed decision, whether that means tackling routes like Reinebringen or finding equally beautiful but easier + safer hikes around the islands!

——
#lofoten #norway #reinebringen #reine #winterhiking
  • *me frantically sending Lofoten photos to every group chat I’m part of*

We spent the last 3 weeks exploring this dramatic archipelago off the northwestern coast of Norway, high above the Arctic Circle & almost never considered a winter destination.

Yet we turned to each other no less than 10 times a day to announce that THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST TRIPS WE’VE EVER TAKEN.

We hiked to empty summits without seeing another person, snapped photos on windy ridges, watched the aurora on 20 different nights, ate soup in the hot tub at 5am while it snowed around us, baked cardamom buns with our favourite friends, ran out of the sauna in towels to witness the strongest solar storm in 20 years, and had a lifetime worth of wow-moments in the span of just 22 days.

It was the kind of trip where everything just feels ✨special✨, like you already know you’re going to remember it forever.

——
#lofoten #norway #aurora #northernlights #arcticcircle
follow @brookebeyond_

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Explore my travel guides, custom itineraries & blog posts with an interactive world map ✨

all destinations

  • A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
  • magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
  • With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
  • a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
  • The exact layers I wore for chilly winter hiking all through January in Lofoten ☃️

see the complete list at 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-packing-list

——
#norway #lofoten #winterhiking #layering #winterstyle
A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
@brookebeyond_
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A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️ For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team. To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time. It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤) It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi* *we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people — #sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
2 weeks ago
View on Instagram |
1/5
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ — #lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
2 weeks ago
View on Instagram |
2/5
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
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With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten! We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether. **It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions. For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
4 weeks ago
View on Instagram |
3/5
a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 *watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol — #norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
2 months ago
View on Instagram |
4/5
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
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The exact layers I wore for chilly winter hiking all through January in Lofoten ☃️ see the complete list at 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-packing-list —— #norway #lofoten #winterhiking #layering #winterstyle
2 months ago
View on Instagram |
5/5

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