Alta Via 4 (day 1): Rifugio Tre Scarperi to Locatelli Tre Cime + Via Ferrata Torre di Toblin & Innerkofler

Following the traditional AV4 route, today is neither long nor difficult— but there are two spectacular via ferrata and a handful of small sidetrips within Parco Naturale Tre Cime that absolutely shouldn’t be missed! Get an early start to allow 8hrs of trail time, not counting breaks. 

It should also be noted that this is far and away the busiest section of AV4, crowded from about 10am-3pm by eager day-trippers. The route I’ve recommended below gets you up and away from the crowds by climbing when most others are hiking, but even so, the views are worth the nuisance of several hundred tourists. It’s short-lived, after all!

This comprehensive guide to Day 1 of Alta Via 4 contains detailed section times, route recommendations, adventurous side trips, via ferrata, and heaps of insider tips— use it to plan your hike & then refer back on the trail so you always know what to expect!

All my AV4 knowledge in one place: Alta Via 4: complete hiking + via ferrata route guide

Alta Via 4: Day 1 overview

Stats quoted here are for my recommended “adventure route” that incorporates side trips, summits & via ferrata whenever possible (in brackets, see stats for the standard AV4 route with no additions). 

• Trail hours: 8hrs (3hrs standard AV4)
• Distance: 15.5km (6.5km standard AV4)
• Elevation gain & loss: 1735m up & 975m down (850m up & 90m down standard AV4)
• Side trips: Via Ferrata Torre di Toblin/delle Scalette (up & back; 3B); Via Ferrata De Luca/Innerkofler (loop; 2B); Via Ferrata delle Forcelle (down; 1B)— refer to Tabacco Map 010 & Cicerone Vol.1 (routes 65, 64 & 63, respectively)
• Huts: Rifugio Locatelli, (Rifugio Lavaredo—30min)

Rifugio Tre Scarperi to Rifugio Locatelli (3hrs)

Departing Rifugio Tre Scarperi, the trail leads up-valley on a pleasant path, ascending slowly at first but soon with an increasing grade as you journey deeper into the mountains. The route is straightforward and time passes easily as you hike towards the jagged Monte Mattina and up the rocky pass until the dramatic towers of Tre Cime finally come into view about 2.5hrs from your starting point. 

Arrive face to face with crown jewel of Alta Via 4, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, one of the most striking landscapes in not just the Dolomites, but the entirety of the Alps. Comprised of the region’s characteristic dolomite limestone, the “Three Chimneys” rise above a rocky plateau and absolutely dominate the skyline.

Prior to WWI, these peaks formed a section of the border between Italy and what was Austria-Hungary; today, they represent only a provincial border in Italy but a marked culture shift between South Tyrol, which remains largely German-speaking and heavily influenced by Austria, and Belluno, which is decidedly more Italian, both culturally and linguistically.

When you finally manage to tear yourself away from the ever-improving views of Tre Cime, continue for another 20min on a gentle downhill path to reach Rifugio Locatelli— expect there to be about 400 people crammed onto the balcony, queuing inside to order, and milling about in the general proximity of this immensely popular mountain hut.

Things do quiet down in the afternoon as all the day-trippers leave, but at mid-morning, it’s not a given that you’ll be able to lighten your backpack by dropping off unneeded items at the hut— just know you may be carrying a full pack for your via ferrata!

There are 2 amazing via ferrata routes that depart from Rifugio Locatelli in Parco Naturale Tre Cime and I recommend both in this itinerary— each are phenomenal in their own right, offering something unique in the way of climbing, summit views, and wartime history.

*if you only have time (or interest) for one via ferrata from Rifugio Locatelli…

Via Ferrata Torre di Toblin is a more exhilarating climb, with long sections of cable, challenging vertical ascents directly up the rock, great natural features, and heaps of consistent exposure! It’s rated 3B and takes about 1.5hrs (return) from Rifugio Locatelli. 

Via Ferrata De Luca/Innerkofler is a more interesting excursion overall, with 600m of WWI tunnels at the start and a staggering panorama from the summit of Monte Paterno, which I also think is a more appealing objective. It’s rated 2B and takes 2hrs return from Rifugio Locatelli, or when linked with delle Forcelle through Passo Lavaredo, 3.5hrs. (see photos below for what you’ll be climbing vs what the view looks like)

Via Ferrata Torre di Toblin (3B; 1.5hrs)

The first (and most highly regarded) of the via ferrata routes that depart from Rifugio Locatelli is Torre di Toblin, also called Via Ferrata delle Scalette. 

New to via ferrata? Read this post: Introduction to via ferrata + complete via ferrata gear list

Once an Austrian observation post used during the Mountain War of 1915-1917, the summit of Torre di Toblin now provides a thrilling climbing objective for those exploring Parco Naturale Tre Cime. Facing out from the Rifugio to look at the three peaks, begin hiking north towards the nearby rocky hill on your right (Sasso di Sesto), following a wooden sign that points you anti-clockwise around the feature and above several beautiful lakes for about 10min until you reach the saddle between Sasso di Sesto and Torre di Toblin. 

From the saddle, continue on a path around the left side of the tower to connect with the cable. The thrilling ascent takes about 45min, featuring countless ladders and quite a few narrow squeezes to gain the summit of Torre di Toblin at 2,617m. Even at 3B, this is a challenging and very entertaining climb!

The historic wartime access route has since been converted into a descent route, so walk along the summit a short distance to find another set of cables, descending for just 20min to connect with a path marked by red triangles. From here, it’s an easy 10min back to Rifugio Locatelli. 

But not before checking out Sasso di Sesto (for the view below)!

Side trip: Sasso di Sesto (10min)

Just before returning to the hut, you can detour quickly from the saddle to the top of Sasso di Sesto at 2,539m for another viewpoint of Tre Cime and Rifugio Locatelli below. This takes less than 5min each way and is worth the quick excursion for one of the best views over the mountain hut and across at Monte Paterno, the dramatic limestone spire that can be climbed on Via Ferrata De Luca/Innerkofler.

I had to do a little scrambling around to find the best unobstructed view, but the result was one of my favourite photos of the trip, taking in both the iconic Tre Cime and the spire of Monte Paterno above the orange roof of Rifugio Locatelli.

Via Ferrata De Luca/Innerkofler & (link to) Via Ferrata delle Forcelle (2B & 1B; 2-3.5hrs)

The 2nd route departing from Rifugio Locatelli in Parco Naturale Tre Cime is quite a contrast to the sustained vertical ascent of Torre di Toblin, but arguably offers more spectacular views from the summit of Monte Paterno, looking directly onto the iconic Tre Cime di Lavaredo, as well as the opportunity to explore an extensive network of tunnels on the approach.

Named for 2 highly-skilled mountaineers (Piero de Luca and Sepp Innerkofler) who served during the Mountain War, this via ferrata is among the most uniquely fascinating in the Dolomites— 600m of continuous tunnels weave through the mountain, ascending gradually at first and eventually climbing more steeply to a saddle right below Monte Paterno. Save for a few windows that offer glimpses of the spectacular surrounds, the tunnels are incredibly dark, so a headlamp is essential!

Taking off from Rifugio Locatelli in the opposite direction (heading towards the spindly cross-topped tower), ascend 5min on a high path to reach the Frankfurter Wurstel rock formation, which does indeed bear striking resemblance to a hot dog…

The route begins with the 600m WWI tunnel, which takes about 15min to climb through on a mix of stairs and inclined dirt, with frequent carved windows offering a view of the surrounding mountains. It’s dark, damp, but totally delightful!

Pop out of the last tunnel through an archway (pictured above) and turn left to connect with the start of the true cable section ascending up the rock. After 25min of fun and fairly easy climbing, reach Forcella del Camoscio. The route technically continues onwards rather than upwards from this point, just shy of the true summit, but it’s well worth the excursion to Monte Paterno, the cross-marked summit visible from the hut.

From Forcella del Camoscio, follow the wooden sign to the right along a steep trail for about 15min to gain an additional 100m to the summit of Monte Paterno at 2,744m, breathing in one of the best views of Tre Cime, Rifugio Locatelli, Monte Mattina, Lagos dei Piani Superiore, and even some of Cadini di Misurina.

Although it can be a little busy, the summit is broad enough that a little onwards hiking/scrambling past the crowds will lead you to secluded corners for even better views and the perfect picnic spot!

After an extended snack break, it takes only a few minutes to drop back to the Forcella, but be mindful of rockfall and loose terrain here— I saw another hiker take a nasty tumble and knock a torrent of rocks onto the trail below, narrowly missing other climbers on the ascent.

*depending on how much time you have, you can choose to skip Via Ferrata delle Forcelle and the large loop, instead finishing Via Ferrata De Luca at Forcella Lavaredo (20min) and hiking back to Rifugio Locatelli on the main trail (20min). This would put your total excursion just under 2hrs!

If time allows for the full loop: from Forcella del Camoscio, cross towards an opposite spire via a small wooden bridge and connect with cable for about 10min. Now traverse and descend around another rocky summit, following a mix of red arrows and red dots to stay on the very low-trafficked path. 

The cable continues intermittently up and down until Forcella dei Laghi. About 45min from the summit, turn right and switchback steeply down a nasty scree field for a further 20min to connect with the wide trail below (if you’re not a fan of scree, you can continue farther to connect with an actual trail, but it will definitely extend your day).

Once back on an established trail, follow the busy path up to Forcella Lavaredo at 2,454m, which is reached about 1.5hrs from the summit of Monte Paterno. Avoid the crowds rounding towards Rifugio Locatelli and instead head sharply right and upwards on path 101b towards Cime Passaporto.

A tunnel is visible in the rock just above the trail (see the photo below) and this is where you’ll meet up with the south end of Via Ferrata De Luca, just 5min above crowded Forcella Lavaredo, which offers a great view of the east face of Cima Piccola (“Little Peak”). 

Walking through a very low tunnel, bang your head several times before finally adjusting to the dark just in time to pass through a stone archway that brings you to the opposite side of the mountain, wrapping around the rock on a narrow ledge for several minutes. 

Take the lower path at the junction, climbing up a scree slope and then enjoying a fun scramble to rejoin your original route at Forcella del Camoscio, marked frequently by red triangles. 30min after you first hopped on the cable, reconnect with familiar terrain on a descending cable for the next 20min and then make a sharp right turn to drop down to the 600m stretch of WWI tunnels that will return you to Rifugio Locatelli.

*I followed a trail on my GPS straight at the junction in an effort to find a different down-route, but after about 20min of Class 3-4 scrambling without protection (and absolutely zero sign of a trail), I decided that teasing out a route here wasn’t worth being late for dinner. I’d recommend just descending through the tunnels, unless you have solid beta for an alternate route!

Night 1: Rifugio Locatelli 

This is far and away the busiest hut I’ve seen in the Dolomites and, I’ll be honest, it’s a little off-putting when you first arrive to find several hundred people on the balcony. BUT, Rifugio Locatelli is equally one of the most scenic huts, so being here in the early morning or late afternoon without the crowds is quite special! And after a full day of via ferrata, things are likely to have calmed down quite a bit at Locatelli (though it’s never truly “quiet”).

I found the rooms comfortable and the food excellent, though the breakfast was a bit scant. I’d recommend paying for your dinner a la carte and skipping breakfast, instead spending your money on a large lunch at tomorrow’s Rifugio Fonda Savio. Thankfully, the dinner menu at Locatelli is long and the a la carte orders come out much quicker than the half-board meals! Reserve Rifugio Locatelli by emailing dreizinnenhuette@rolmail.net OR rifugio-locatelli@rolmail.net.

• Rooms: 31/47€ (dorm/small room) OR 72/85€ half board (dorm/small room)
• Food: A la carte or half board (extensive menu, I definitely recommend a la carte here!)
• Showers: 8€ for 5min (regularly runs out in the summer; there are also large sinks in the women’s bathroom that hikers regularly use to wash off)
• Connectivity: None
• Alpine club discount: -13.5€ room or -12€ half board

For more information on what to expect in a mountain hut & how to prepare for your stay: Everything you need to know about mountain huts (rifugi) in the Italian Dolomites

Read more about Alta Via 4

• start here ->Detailed AV4 Route Guide
• ALTA VIA 4 (DAY 0): SAN CANDIDO TO RIFUGIO TRE SCARPERI
• ALTA VIA 4 (DAY 1): RIFUGIO TRE SCARPERI TO LOCATELLI TRE CIME + VIA FERRATA TORRE DI TOBLIN & INNERKOFLER
• ALTA VIA 4 (DAY 2): RIFUGIO LOCATELLI TRE CIME TO RIFUGIO FONDA SAVIO + VIA FERRATA MERLONE
• ALTA VIA 4 (DAY 3): RIFUGIO FONDA SAVIO TO RIFUGIO VANDELLI
• ALTA VIA 4 (DAY 4): RIFUGIO VANDELLI TO RIFUGIO SAN MARCO + VIA FERRATA GIRO DE SORAPIS
• ALTA VIA 4 (DAYS 5 & 6): RIFUGIO SAN MARCO TO RIFUGIO ANTELAO TO PIEVE DI CADORE