Middle and South Teton are two of the most rewarding non-technical peaks in Grand Teton National Park, offering adventurous scramblers the opportunity to experience 12,000ft without any technical climbing gear (or even a partner!). Unlike the crowded routes up the Grand, these summits are often quiet (I saw just a few people on Middle and had South Teton entirely to myself), and the views looking onto the Grand are arguably even more dramatic than the ones from it!
I climbed both peaks solo in August 2022 as part of a custom extension to the Teton Crest Trail— perfect conditions, killer summit panoramas, and that rare mix of solitude and scale made it one of my all-time favourite alpine days. Whether you’re tagging these peaks as a side mission from a longer backpacking route or planning a dedicated overnight climb, this post will share all the beta you need for 2 successful summits.
Climbing Middle & South Teton
Standing at 12,804ft (3,903m) and 12,514ft (3,814m), respectively, Middle and South Teton are two of the most iconic non-technical peaks in Grand Teton National Park. While the Grand itself requires ropes and climbing gear on every route, Middle and South Teton can both be climbed without any technical equipment— just strong route-finding, solid scrambling skills, a head for heights, and enough endurance to keep moving for 12hrs.
- Middle Teton: commonly climbed via the Southwest Couloir, a steep Class 3–4 scramble with some route-finding challenges, loose rock, and occasional exposure
- South Teton: a slightly easier objective (Class 2–3), with a more direct line from the saddle and less exposure near the summit.
ESSENTIAL GEAR FOR MIDDLE & SOUTH TETON
⭐️ daypack: Osprey Talon 33
⭐️ mountaineering boots: La Sportiva Trango Tech Leather GTX Boots (women’s) / (men’s)
⭐️ helmet: Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet (women’s) / (men’s)
⭐️ trekking poles: Black Diamond Trail Trekking Poles
⭐️ PLB/SOS: Garmin InReach Mini 2
⭐️ GPS: CalTopo app on mobile & Garmin fenix 7X Pro Watch
⭐️ First Aid Kit: Adventure Medical Kits Backpacker
⭐️ headlamp: Black Diamond Spot 400-R
⭐️ powerbank: VRURC Portable Charger with Built-in Cables, 10000mAh
👉🏼 Need help building a layering system that actually works? Read my outdoor layering guide for tips on choosing base layers, insulation, and outer shells.
When to climb Middle & South Teton
The best time to climb Middle and South Teton is from mid-July through early September, when most of the snow has melted and the routes are dry. Snow can linger in the couloir on Middle Teton even in late summer, so always check trip reports or consult with rangers at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station for current conditions.
Start your climb early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms and give yourself enough time for a safe descent! I left Garnet Meadows at 6.30am and was back at camp 8hrs later including breaks (but remember to add about 2hrs each way to reach Garnet Meadows from the Lupine Meadows Trailhead = 12hrs total).
Getting to Middle & South Teton
Both peaks are accessed from the Lupine Meadows Trailhead, located inside Grand Teton National Park just 25min from Jackson, Wyoming. The approach is long enough to warrant an overnight— most climbers set up basecamp at Garnet Meadows, a grassy alpine basin below the Middle Teton that also serves as a launching point for climbs of the Grand.
Permits for Grand Teton National Park
Permits are required for backcountry camping at Garnet Meadows and cost $20 per trip + $7 per night, so you’ll need to specify your entry date, exit date, and number of people (up to 6 per permit) when applying.
There are two ways to snag a permit:
- Advance reservations – Released online at precisely 8am on the 7th of January for the entire hiking season. You’ll still need to collect your actual permit from one of the Grand Teton National Park Visitor Centres (Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center, Colter Bay Visitor Center, or the Jenny Lake Ranger Station) BEFORE 10am on the permit start date.
- Walk-up permits – Issued on a first-come, first-served basis at any Grand Teton Visitor Centre starting at 8am one day in advance. You’ll need to go line up in person, but 2/3rds of all permits are specifically set aside for walk-ups, so this tends to be a very safe option (it’s how I got my permit!).
Essential resources & maps
Above Garnet Meadows, you’ll be off-trail on steep, rocky terrain where navigation errors can have serious consequences. I’ve provided detailed route descriptions below, but you should always carry GPS tracks and a topographic map.
🗺️ Check out my custom Teton Crest Trail GPS map for the route from Lupine Meadows Trailhead to Garnet Meadows and up the summits of Middle & South Teton (plus a full 5-day backpacking route from Rendezvous Mountain to Delta Lake on the Teton Crest Trail).
Detailed route description for climbing Middle & South Teton
- Total climb time: 12hrs
- Distance: 14.3mi (23km)
- Elevation gain & loss: 7,200m (2,190m)
- Difficulty: Class 2-4
Lupine Meadows to Garnet Meadows (2hrs)
The trail from Lupine Meadows to Garnet Meadows covers 7.5km (4.7mi) with 800m (2,625ft) of steady elevation gain, beginning on well-maintained switchbacks through forest before opening into Garnet Canyon, where it gets rockier and more rugged.
The official trail eventually disappears into a boulder field— continue scrambling through this section, following cairns and faint climber’s paths until you reach the wide, grassy basin of Garnet Meadows. This is the primary basecamp for Middle, South, and Grand Teton ascents, and you’ll find flat gravel tent platforms and bear boxes for overnight use.
If you’re climbing Middle and South Teton as an overnight trip, you can enjoy a leisurely afternoon start (and maybe even a detour to Delta Lake!) as you make your way to Garnet Meadows— but if you’re making a single-day push, plan to leave the Lupine Meadows Trailhead by 4–5am. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in the summer months (especially July and August), and summit attempts should be wrapped up early to avoid exposure on the upper ridgelines.
Garnet Meadows to the saddle between Middle & South Teton (2hrs)
From Garnet Meadows, a climber’s path runs all the way to the saddle between Middle and South Teton, winding through the rocks and often providing a flatter, more stable option than boulder-hopping. Importantly, do NOT head up the snowy gully that appears more directly beneath the Middle Teton— stick to the rock gully just left of this.
After about 30min, pass a sign for the South Fork Garnet Canyon camping zone and continue upwards. The middle section of the ascent relaxes only slightly, but it’s an altogether unrelenting climb that should take quick scramblers around 2hrs to crest over the saddle.
Saddle to Middle Teton summit (1.5hrs) & back to saddle (30min)
From the saddle, ascend right towards Middle Teton and follow a faint climbers’ path that hugs the right of the ridgeline— don’t go too high too soon or you’ll lose the route in the talus; if this happens, it’s worth scrambling back down to the cairned path, which runs much faster to the summit. I found the best path was just above (or through the uppermost section of) the snowfield.
After 15-20min from the saddle, reach a flat, grassy bench around 11,750ft with fantastic views and a clear sightline of the Southwest Couloir (narrow shaded gully just below the summit block in the photo above). Sparsely placed cairns will direct you approximately up the centre of the bench to connect with the rocky face of Middle Teton at the couloir; for reference, it took me about 50min to reach the couloir from the saddle.
As the couloir narrows around 12,300ft, you’ll start climbing through loose Class 3 terrain (a bit more solid if you stick far left) and eventually exit the couloir on your left to scramble to the ridge at ~12,650ft— if anything starts to feel like Class 5, you’ve gotten off the route and should backtrack immediately!
The final 150 vertical feet follows the ridge on solid rock (Class 3 and occasional Class 4) to reach the dramatic summit of Middle Teton at 12,804ft, about 30min after entering the couloir and just under 1.5hrs from the saddle. Enjoy the view for a few minutes and then retrace your steps carefully down to the saddle to reset for South Teton!
Saddle to South Teton summit (1hr) & back to saddle (45min)
From the saddle between Middle and South Teton, the ascent to South Teton’s summit follows a slightly more straightforward yet still steep route, primarily involving Class 2-3 scrambling (a bit easier and with less exposure than Middle Teton).
Attempt to follow a faint path through the scree towards a notch in the summit ridgeline, shown in the photo below. The final approach to the summit involves a short, steep push of careful scrambling, but never gets too exposed; also unlike Middle Teton, the summit is quiet and you may enjoy it entirely to yourself, the spectacular views of Middle and Grand Teton layered in front of you.
From the saddle, it took me a little under 1hr to the summit and 45min to descend on the same route back to the saddle.
Saddle to Garnet Meadows (1.5hrs) & down to Lupine Meadows (2.5hrs)
Descend from the saddle following more or less the same ascent route, navigating the boulder field to return to camp, pack up your tent, and continue down the trail. Finally, retrace your route through Garnet Meadows for about 8km to reach the end of the trail at Lupine Meadows Trailhead.
With breathtaking views of the Grand from every angle, minimal technical difficulty, and an exhilarating alpine route that stays just shy of full-on mountaineering, Middle & South Teton are my picks for the best intermediate scrambles in Grand Teton National Park. I hope this guide helps you plan your own epic ascent!
Read more about Grand Teton National Park
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