Highlights from solo hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc

July 19, 2017

10,000m of elevation gain/ 180km/ 8 days/ 3 countries. By some miracle, I made it all the way around Mont Blanc alive and now I’m telling everyone I know to go hike the TMB! And I’m also telling everyone I know that I DID IT, because I’m pretty bloody pleased with myself, if I’m being honest. This has been the hardest thing I’ve ever done and I’ve got the wounds to prove it, but it has also been the most rewarding experience and one of my proudest accomplishments. Here are the highlights from my 8 days on the trail, as well as a summary of trail stats and the campsites I stayed at.

Day 1: Les Houches – Les Contamines

Distance covered: 20km
Elevation gain & loss: 646m & 643m
Trail time: 6.5hrs
Highlights: Passed through the most adorable little French villages, saw French llamas and little French kitties, caught a few glimpses of Mont Blanc through the clouds

CAMPING LE PONTET

Located about 2km past Les Contamines, this is a lovely campsite and gîte with clean facilities and reasonable prices. Due to torrential rain, I paid a bit extra to stay in a dorm bed in the mountain hut-style dorm and was very happy to be out of the wet and cold.

Price of camping: ~8€
Price of bed in gîte: 14€
Facilities: toilets, hot showers, wifi (for 1€)
Food: a small shack onsite sells some snacks and drinks

Day 2: Les Contamines – Col des Fours – Les Mottets

Distance covered: 23km
Elevation gain & loss: 1579m & 876m
Trail time: 7.5hrs
Variations: Col des Fours to Les Mottets
Highlights: Crossed 3 mountain passes, reached the highest point on the TMB at 2,665m, saw a marmotte and a herd of chamois, wild camped in the most incredible spot in front of the mountains.

WILD CAMPING NEAR REFUGE LES MOTTETS

I originally set my tent up on the side of the river closest to the refuge, but was told to move to the small grass patch opposite the field of cows. I woke up to a chorus of thousands of cow bells and enjoyed spectacular views of the mountains, so it was well worth the lack of facilities to enjoy wild camping for at least one night.

Price of camping: free!
Facilities: N/A (it might be possible to shower for a small fee at the refuge)
Food: possible to pay for a hot meal at the refuge (I got a baguette to accompany my mountain food and ate in my tent)
Read more: TOUR DU MONT BLANC DAY 2: LES CONTAMINES – COL DES FOURS – LES MOTTETS

Day 3: Les Mottets – Rifugio Elisabetta – Courmayeur

Distance covered: 30km
Elevation gain & loss: 1464m & 1818m
Trail time: 8.5hrs
Variations: combined stage 3 & 4 into a single day
Highlights: Crossed the border into Italy, walked with a lovely group of people, incredible mountain views, descended into Courmayeur and got to enjoy pizza and gelato.

ALBERGO LE MARMOTTE IN COURMAYEUR

After combining two stages into a single day and covering a brutal amount of distance both up and down steep trails, I arrived a day earlier than I had originally planned in Courmayeur. As a reward, I stayed in a room at Albergo Le Marmotte (my friend Katy was staying there while she waited for me to come through Courmayeur). I must say, it was nice to have a hot shower and a good long sleep in a bed!

Price of hotel: 80€ for a double room
Food: there are a million pizza/pasta options in town (my motivation for walking farther today than planned) and the hotel also serves a delicious Italian breakfast in the mornings, included in the room rate

Day 4: Courmayeur – Rifugio Bonatti – La Peule

Distance covered: 28km
Elevation gain & loss: 1710m & 611m
Trail time: 9.5hrs
Variations: combined stage 5 & part of stage 6 into one day
Highlights: Stunning wild flowers, glimpses of “Monte Bianco” (as the Italians say), crossed the border into Switzerland.

LE PEULE

I camped inside a yurt at Le Peule for the same price of pitching a tent on the property, and it was certainly a warmer option. There is one yurt furnished with beds that is more expensive, and also the option of dorm beds for 25€, but I was quite happy to sleep with my air mattress and sleeping bag on the wood chips of the storage yurt after enjoying a delicious drink and some cheese from inside the refuge.

Price of camping: 15€ to pitch a tent or stay in the unfurnished yurt
Facilities: toilets, hot showers, indoor seating in the refuge
Food: hot meals at the refuge, drinks and cheese for sale

Day 5: La Peule – Champex

Distance covered: 24km
Elevation gain & loss: 465m & 1465m
Trail time: 5.5hrs
Variations: combined part of stage 6 & stage 7 into one day
Highlights: Passed through some cute Swiss towns, dozens of wood carvings of animals along the forest trail, gorgeous lake in Champex.

CAMPING LES ROCAILLES

On the far side of Champex, this is a large and well-equipped campsite with good wifi and nice facilities. I found it a bit difficult to locate (luckily, I ran into a friend from the previous day who helped me find my way), so just follow the lake all the way around through town and it is immediately off the trail you will take tomorrow, can’t miss it. Stock up on food at the supermarket in town before checking in!

Price of camping: 15sfr
Facilities: toilets, hot showers, wifi (!), picnic tables
Food: sells a few snacks, 15min walk to supermarket and restaurants in Champex

Day 6: Champex – Fenêtre d’Arpette – Le Peuty

Distance covered: 15km
Elevation gain & loss: 1199m & 1139m
Trail time: 6.5hrs
Variations: stage 8 high route via Fenêtre d’Arpette
Highlights: The so-called hardest day of the trek, incredible uphill climb to highest point on the TMB at 2,665m, amazing views of Glacier du Trient.

LE PEUTY

Having heard that there is no camping at Col de la Forclaz, the traditional end of stage 8, I detoured about 20min to Le Peuty, where a simple campsite sits below the mountains. There are excellent directions in Kev’s book, but basically you just walk downhill along a winding road until you come to a small, level clearing. The facilities are really minimal, but the site has a great view and was pleasantly inexpensive.

Price of camping: 4sfr
Facilities: toilet block outside, small shelter to cook and eat under
Food: 5min walk to a very tiny shop selling sandwiches and a couple food items, plus a bar with drinks

Day 7: Le Peuty – Tré-Le-Champ

Distance covered: 16km
Elevation gain & loss: 1069m & 1178m
Trail time: 4.5hrs
Highlights: Crossed the border back into France, unobstructed views of Mont Blanc, wine with friends at a great camp site.

AUBERGE LA BOERNE

There are several options for camping in Tré-Le-Champ and Argentière, but I was really happy with this spot in the garden of Auberge la Boerne. Campers get full access of the wonderful indoor bathrooms and it’s just a short walk to a massive supermarket (by mountain standards) so you can binge on tasty snacks on the cheap.

Price of camping: 8€
Facilities: bathrooms inside the Auberge, hot showers, wifi also in the Auberge
Food: hot meals at the Auberge, 15min walk to a supermarket in Argentière

Day 8: Tré-Le-Champ – Lac Blanc – La Flegere – Chamonix

Distance covered: 17km
Elevation gain & loss: 760m & 1257m
Trail time: 5.5hrs
Variations: combined stage 10 & 11 into one day, included Lac Blanc variante, and arrived back in Chamonix
Highlights: The famed ladder section with vertical climbing, stunning alpine lakes, swimming in freezing cold Lac Blanc, descent from the mountain into Chamonix for the end of the hike!

CHAMONIX

Back in Chamonix, there are a number of campsites in and around the town, as well as a wide range of accommodation options throughout the area. Treat yourself to a hot shower and a comfy bed, you’ve earned it!

The final day of my TMB hike

Read about my other days on the TMB:

TOUR DU MONT BLANC DAY 1: LES HOUCHES – LES CONTAMINES

TOUR DU MONT BLANC DAY 2: LES CONTAMINES – COL DES FOURS – LES MOTTETS

TOUR DU MONT BLANC DAY 3: LES MOTTETS – RIFUGIO ELISABETTA – COURMAYEUR

TOUR DU MONT BLANC DAY 4: COURMAYEUR – RIFUGIO BONATTI – LA PEULE

TOUR DU MONT BLANC DAY 5: LA PEULE – CHAMPEX

TOUR DU MONT BLANC DAY 6: CHAMPEX – FENÊTRE D’ARPETTE – LE PEUTY

TOUR DU MONT BLANC DAY 7: LE PEUTY – TRÉ-LE-CHAMP

TOUR DU MONT BLANC DAY 8: TRÉ-LE-CHAMP – LAC BLANC – LA FLEGERE – CHAMONIX

And plan your own amazing TMB hike!

THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO SOLO HIKING & CAMPING THE TOUR DU MONT BLANC

TAGS:mother nature mountain adventures opt outside tmb

brooke brisbine

I've spent the last decade exploring the world— everything from solo trekking in the Andes to overlanding in Zambia, all while completing a PhD in Biomechanics, teaching at a university & securing permanent residency in Australia. In 2020, I finally fulfilled my dream of becoming a full-time nomad! Whether it’s vanlife in Mexico, scuba diving in the Galápagos, ticking off incredible US National Parks, or climbing in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

The Comments

Phil Alma

June 11, 2018

HI Brooke,

I don’t usually leave comments on blogs, but I wanted to say that yours is probably one of the best out there for the TMB. Well written. To the point. Full of good information and helpful insights. Keep these entries coming! Phil

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brooke brisbine
Phil Alma
June 15, 2018

Thank you so much for the thoughtful comment, Phil! It honestly makes me so happy to hear that you’ve found these posts helpful– hiking the TMB was one of my all-time favourite adventures, but I hardly knew what to expect when I set out on that first day. All I wanted to do when I got home was share my experience and everything I learnt along the way with other hikers, so I love hearing that it’s been of use to you!

Wishing you all the best on this and all your future adventures,
Brooke

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