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brooke beyond

Ecuador / Latin America

The ultimate Ecuador travel guide

20 April 2020

Last Updated on 5 June 2022

Dozens of active volcanoes, lush Amazon Jungle, UNESCO World Heritage-listed cities, the incomparable Galápagos Islands, and some of the best beaches in South America come together to form this small but amazingly diverse country, a destination quite unlike anywhere else.

Ecuador dazzles, from its incredible food and charming people to its natural beauty and abundance of wildlife, and I can absolutely guarantee that you’ll leave feeling like you experienced something truly special here. This travel guide contains absolutely everything you need to know before visiting Ecuador, including when to visit, how to get around, top sights, itinerary recommendations, health & safety, typical costs, a packing list & heaps more.

What's in this guide

Toggle
  • Ecuador
  • Planning your trip to Ecuador
    • Best time to visit Ecuador
    • Getting to Ecuador
      • Flights to Ecuador
      • Buses to Ecuador
    • Getting around Ecuador
      • Transport between cities
      • Transport within the city
  • What to do in Ecuador
    • Top sights & destinations in Ecuador
      • Quito
      • Cotopaxi National Park
      • Laguna Quilotoa
      • Baños
      • Montañita
      • Guayaquil
      • Galápagos Islands
    • Itinerary recommendations for Ecuador
    • Best food & drink in Ecuador
    • Recommended reading for Ecuador
  • Money in Ecuador
    • Cash & cards in Ecuador
      • US Dollars
      • Credit cards
    • Trip budget for Ecuador
      • Cost-cutting tips
    • Typical expenses in Ecuador
  • Practical considerations for Ecuador
    • Health concerns in Ecuador
      • Water
      • Vaccinations & medication 
      • Altitude & acclimatisation
    • Safety in Ecuador
    • Language barrier in Ecuador
    • Communication & connectivity in Ecuador
      • Local SIM cards
      • Wifi access
    • Packing list for Ecuador
    • More about Ecuador on Brooke Around Town

Ecuador

Map of mainland Ecuador
[map from Lonely Planet]

Population: 17.6 million

Capital: Quito

Language: Spanish—  read more about the Language barrier below

Currency: US Dollars— read more about Money in Ecuador below

Power: Type A plug or B plug (same as the 2- or 3-prong types used in America) at 120V

Visa: A free 90-day travel visa is issued on arrival (at the airport) for citizens of most countries, including Australia, America, and UK 

Good to know: The Galápagos have a reputation for being incredibly expensive, and as a result, a lot of visitors to Ecuador skip the islands— but it’s definitely possible to plan an awesome budget-friendly trip! Check out this post for more details on a land-based Galápagos adventure.

Planning your trip to Ecuador

Best time to visit Ecuador

Despite being a rather small country, Ecuador is amazingly diverse in terms of both landscape and climate, often meaning that one region is experiencing heavy rain while another is quite dry. 

In the Galápagos, there are generally just two seasons: a wet, warmer season from December to June and a dry, colder season from July to November. Both water temps and underwater visibility can be better in the wet season, but you’ll have clearer days in the dry season and it never really drops below 20, so both are good options. I go into a lot more detail about the best time to visit the Galápagos in terms of weather and wildlife in this post, but suffice to say that anytime is going to be really special. My main advice is to, if possible, avoid high season from November to March and June to August, as the islands will be more crowded, prices will increase, and tours can book out.

Back on the mainland, the Ecuadorian highlands around Quito and the Andes tend to experience their dry season from June to September, whereas the Amazon is (slightly) drier from August to February. Diving with Manta Ray near Montañita (Bajo Cope or Isla de la Plata) is also best from July to October. Like the Galápagos, mainland Ecuador can be a little busier during European and North American holiday periods, but it shouldn’t really impact your travels at all.

People ziplining over Cascada Manto de la Novia waterfall Baños
Ziplining over Cascada Manto de la Novia

Getting to Ecuador

Flights to Ecuador

A majority of travellers to Ecuador will fly into Quito through the Mariscal Sucre International Airport (UIO), about 1hr outside of the city itself ($25USD in a taxi).

It’s also possible to fly into Guayaquil’s Aeropuerto Internacional José Joaquín De Olmedo (GYE), and since you’ll probably want to travel between these 2 cities anyway, choose flights based on whatever is cheapest for your dates. It’s also worth noting that you can reach the Galápagos directly from Quito or Guayaquil for essentially the same price and flight time.

Flights to Ecuador can be really reasonable if you shop around, with Sydney to Quito as low as $1400AUD return and LAX to Quito usually hovering around $200-400USD. Use Skyscanner or Momondo to check for the best flight prices.

Buses to Ecuador

It’s also possible to arrive into Ecuador overland from Peru or Colombia on a long bus. There’s a bit of a shuffle involved at the border when you have to disembark, typically walking the final metres into the country via an immigration office to stamp in and out, and then re-boarding the bus on the other side. It’s manageable if you have a basic understanding of Spanish and you keep your wits about you.

If you’re arriving into Quito overland, you’ll most likely come into Terminal Quitumbe, the city’s large bus station located about 30min south of the centre. Expect to pay around $15USD for a taxi, or if you have a local SIM card (see Communication & connectivity below), definitely use Uber for a lower fare.

Girls and guide Ecuador Hop
Travelling with Ecuador Hop

Getting around Ecuador

Transport between cities

Internal flights in Ecuador

Of course it’s possible to fly between cities in Ecuador, but it’s such a small country that I really wouldn’t recommend it over taking incredibly inexpensive and reasonably comfortable public buses. The one exception is getting to the Galápagos Islands, which will obviously necessitate air travel.

LATAM, TAME, and Avianca all operate daily flights from the mainland (Quito or Guayaquil) to Baltra (GPS), which is the main airport for the islands located near Santa Cruz and the route I’d recommend for most people. Read more about flying to the Galápagos in this post.

Public buses in Ecuador

As with most South American countries, Ecuador has a brilliant network of public buses connecting every city, town, and natural attraction, and this is absolutely the best way to get around.

The buses in Ecuador don’t usually have a toilet on board or offer the super comfy semi-cama seats that you’ll find in larger countries, but they do make up for it by being incredibly inexpensive. The general rule is that you’ll pay just $1-2USD per hour of bus travel. You also don’t need to reserve tickets in advance, you can just rock up to the station and buy on the day.

Tourist buses in Ecuador

For most itineraries through Ecuador, there’s also the option to travel with Ecuador Hop, a new hop-on/hop-off bus service from Quito to Montañita via Laguna Quilotoa, Volcán Cotopaxi, Baños, Riobamba, Cuenca, and Guayaquil.

It’s more expensive than travelling by public bus, true, but it has some definite draws— added convenience of hostel pick-up/drop-off, cool extra stops along the journey, and a whole bus of fun backpackers to hang out with. After travelling around Ecuador by public bus and then with Ecuador Hop, I wrote a super in-depth comparison to help you decide which is better for you! 

Read more: AN HONEST REVIEW OF ECUADOR HOP

Transport within the city

Taxis in Ecuador

Taxis are an inexpensive way to get around any city in Ecuador (or even between cities if it’s not too far, like Montañita to Ayangue), but you need to exercise some additional caution. According to several locals, it’s absolutely not safe for a solo female to take a taxi in Quito at night, so either Uber or make sure you’re travelling with a group (make friends at the hostel!)

If you do want to use a taxi, either have your hostel call one for you OR use an app like Cabify or Easy Taxi— this will ensure that you’re getting into a registered taxi who’s far less likely to scam you. These apps also remove the need to negotiate a fare when you have absolutely no idea what a ride should cost. I haven’t heard of anyone having safety issues while using Cabify or Easy Taxi, so they can be a great option if Uber isn’t available.

Uber in Ecuador

Uber is typically the safest, cheapest, and most convenient way to get around, but it’s only in larger cities like Quito and Guayaquil.

Technically, Uber is illegal in Ecuador, so you’ll usually have to sit in the front seat so it looks like you’re just a pair of friends, but I found Uber to be very reliable and consistently inexpensive. I’d recommend it over taking a taxi in almost every situation (with the main exception being the airport, where it’s usually way easier to get a taxi).

Get a local SIM card when you arrive (see Communication & connectivity below) so that you’re able to use Uber, as well as Google Maps, to get around.

Girl looking at colourful beach and volcanos Isla Bartolomé Galápagos

Overlooking Isla Bartolomé

What to do in Ecuador

Top sights & destinations in Ecuador

I’ve written comprehensive guides to heaps of destinations around Ecuador, so this is just a brief idea of where to go and what you might do on your trip. Links to more detailed posts are provided throughout.

Quito

The country’s high-altitude, volcano-circled capital is one of the absolute best places to visit in Ecuador, with impeccably preserved colonial streets, rich Andean culture, a thriving food scene, and some seriously spectacular views. You’ll likely pass through Quito at the start of your trip and/or en route to the Galápagos, so just make sure to set aside a few days to explore this underrated but vibrant city in the highlands.

  • WHAT TO DO IN QUITO: 12 AWESOME THINGS TO DO IN ECUADOR’S CAPITAL
Girl riding the TelefériQo cable car over Quito
Riding the TelefériQo in Quito

Cotopaxi National Park

Home to one of the world’s highest active volcanos, Cotopaxi National Park is just a few hours from Quito and among the best ways to get outside in the high-altitude mountains of Ecuador. Some of the top activities in the National Park include scenic horse rides through the mountains, beautiful Laguna Limpiopungo, and hiking to the base of the Cotopaxi Glacier at 5,000m.

  • HIKING TO REFUGIO JOSÉ RIVAS & COTOPAXI GLACIER IN ECUADOR
Hiker at Cotopaxi Glacier on volcano Ecuador
Cotopaxi Glacier

Laguna Quilotoa

This impossibly-turquoise crater lake situated in the caldera of an active volcano is one of Ecuador’s most impressive natural wonders. Whether you have several days to complete the Quilotoa Loop trek or just an afternoon to walk around the rim, Laguna Quilotoa is a definite highlight.

  • THE PERFECT 2-3 WEEK GALÁPAGOS & MAINLAND ECUADOR TRAVEL ITINERARY
Girl in colourful sweater at Laguna Quilotoa turquoise lake Ecuador
Mirador Shalala over Laguna Quilotoa

Baños

As Ecuador’s undisputed adventure capital, Baños is the best place to go for high-adrenaline activities like ziplining, canyoning, white water rafting, and giant swings, but it’s also home to a spectacularly lush jungle full of waterfalls and steamy hot springs. There’s an absolutely awesome backpacker vibe here, and somehow the town still manages to feel energetic and unhurried at the same time, without ever being tacky.

  • 9 AMAZING THINGS TO DO IN BAÑOS: A GUIDE TO ECUADOR’S ADVENTURE CAPITAL
  • RUTA DE LAS CASCADAS: BIKING THE WATERFALL ROUTE IN BAÑOS, ECUADOR
Girl swinging over mountains Casa del Arbol in Baños
Swinging over Baños at Casa del Arbol

Montañita

Montañita is a formerly sleepy village along the Ruta del Sol that is now widely known as one of the best places in Ecuador to surf (and party); slightly less-known is its close proximity to the best diving in mainland Ecuador. Isla de la Plata and Bajo Cope are home to the largest population of oceanic Manta Ray in the world, and an intimate dive in these waters is truly magical.

  • THE BEST PLACE TO SCUBA DIVE WITH MANTA RAY IN ECUADOR: BAJO COPE, AYANGUE
Diving with Manta Ray in Bajo Cope, Ayangue
Scuba diving with Manta Ray

Guayaquil

Ecuador’s largest city is the gateway to the Galápagos Islands, but also a colourful coastal paradise of its own, overflowing with metropolitan parks, vibrant architecture, and unique wildlife.

Colourful view over Guayaquil Ecuador
Guayaquil

Galápagos Islands

Among the best places in the world to see wildlife and marinelife, the Galápagos Islands are absolutely incomparable when it comes to scuba diving, beautiful volcanic landscapes, secluded beaches, and encounters with rare species. For both their natural beauty and immense biodiversity, this is one of the most incredible places you can visit in Ecuador and it would be absolutely insane to travel the country without including the Galápagos in your itinerary.

  • ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT A LAND-BASED TRIP TO THE GALÁPAGOS (WITHOUT A CRUISE)
  • GALÁPAGOS PACKING LIST: WHAT TO PACK FOR A LAND-BASED TRIP
  • GALÁPAGOS ON A BUDGET: SANTA CRUZ ISLAND & PUERTO AYORA TRAVEL GUIDE
  • GALÁPAGOS ON A BUDGET: ISLA ISABELA & PUERTO VILLAMIL TRAVEL GUIDE
School of hammerhead sharks swimming in Galápagos
Diving with Hammerhead Sharks in the Galápagos

Itinerary recommendations for Ecuador

  • I wrote a super-detailed 2-3 week itinerary for Ecuador that covers some of the country’s main highlights, so I’d highly suggest checking that out: THE PERFECT 2-3 WEEK GALÁPAGOS & MAINLAND ECUADOR TRAVEL ITINERARY. With more time, you can add destinations like Cuenca, Papallacta, Selinas, and Riobamba to your itinerary.
  • To craft a Galápagos-based itinerary, use this comprehensive guide: ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT A LAND-BASED TRIP TO THE GALÁPAGOS (WITHOUT A CRUISE)

Best food & drink in Ecuador

Ecuadorian cuisine is amazingly good, primarily consisting of ocean-fresh seafood on the coast and Galápagos, mouthwatering grilled meat on the mainland, aji for a bit of spice, and a lot of delicious starchy sides. I actually found the food to be one of the main highlights of travelling in Ecuador, and it helped that everything was very inexpensive and full of flavour!

Unfortunately, Ecuador is probably a pretty hard place to be as a vegetarian, as almost every dish centres around meat or seafood. The few times I ate with a vegetarian at a restaurant in Ecuador, she was basically just served banana, rice, potato, and egg, which did not seem super appealing. I imagine it’s possible to find more vegetable-based dishes if you seek out vegetarian cafes, but it’s certainly the meat-lovers who will most enjoy Ecuadorian cuisine.

Here are some of the absolute best foods to try in Ecuador:

  • Patacones: fried plantains (big green bananas) pressed into flat disc, a common and absolutely delicious side to basically every dish
  • Ají: a moderately spicy salsa, sometimes a little chunky like pico de gallo, served on the side of every dish in Ecuador
  • Llapingachos: incredibly delicious fried potato pancakes stuffed with cheese, similar to Colombian arepas
  • Encebollado: a super flavourful seafood, red onion, and coriander soup
  • Cuy: guinea pig roasted on a spit, very common in the Andes (including other countries like Peru); it’s actually pretty good and worth a try if you can get over the fact that it’s a cute little guinea pig
  • Carne asada: thin beef marinated and grilled to a somewhat crispy texture, absolutely my favourite type of steak in the world
  • Ceviche: raw fish marinated in lime juice and served with red onions, cilantro, chilli, and corn (similar to the ceviche made in Peru)
Meat smoking on outside grill
Carne asada in Ecuador

Recommended reading for Ecuador

I always love reading about a country before/while I’m visiting! It’s a great way to learn more about the history of the places you’ll be seeing, but also about the culture, people, and unique landscapes. Here are my top picks for Ecuador:

  • The Voyage of the Beagle // Charles Darwin: A young Charles Darwin documents his journey around the world on the HMS Beagle, famously sailing through the Galápagos Islands and beginning to formulate what would one day become his Theory of Natural Selection, the most rigorous scientific understanding of human evolution ever posited. Even a century and a half later, Darwin’s theories remain relevant, and this is probably one of the greatest books any scientist or keen naturalist can read to appreciate the biodiversity of the Galápagos.
  • The Queen of Water // Laura Resau: Based on the real life of a indígena girl born in a small Andean village in Ecuador, this novel follows the young life of María Virginia Farinango as she is taken from her home at age 7 and forced to serve a middle-class mestizo family who leads her to resent her heritage and discourages her from pursuing any kind of life beyond that of a “stupid Indian” servant. This is a really inspiring read that will absolutely deepen your appreciation for the classism and racism that once existed in Ecuador, but also for the bravery and resilience of the indigenous people.
  • Satan Came to Eden // Dore Strauch: A firsthand account of what would later be called “The Galápagos Affair”, a series of bizarre happenings (and a disappearance) on Isla Floreana in the 1930s after a group of Europeans seeking to escape traditional civilisation created their own utopia in the Galápagos. Most of these characters, all real people, were probably what I’d describe as mentally unhinged, so you can imagine this makes for entertaining reading.
  • Floreana: A Woman’s Pilgrimage to the Galápagos // Margaret Wittmer: Another perspective on the strange “Galápagos Affair” on Isla Floreana in the 1930s, written by a woman living on the island with her husband and their two young sons.
  • Galápagos // Kurt Vonnegut: A strange, satirical, and classically-Vonnegut tale about a group of travellers en route to the Galápagos for a nature cruise who, after an apocalypse, become the last people on earth and must then colonise one of the islands to repopulate. This might not be the kind of book that appeals to everyone, but I did actually learn a bit about the Galápagos along the way, and of course also enjoyed the poignant commentary on human egotism (you’ll see).
Galápagos tortoise crossing the road

Tortoise crossing the road on Isabela

Money in Ecuador

Cash & cards in Ecuador

US Dollars

Ecuador did away with their own national currency, the sucre, back in 2000 due to skyrocketing inflation and now uses the US Dollar as their official currency.

All the notes used in Ecuador are identical to those used in the US, but you won’t find a lot of $1 notes in circulation— instead, Ecuador seems to favour gold $1 Sacagawea coins that, although still legal tender in the US, aren’t all that common there.

Credit cards

Cards are not a great option for everyday purchases in Ecuador. Debit or credit card surcharges are often as high as 12% and most local restaurants, artisans, and markets won’t accept card anyway. As such, it’s a good idea to book tours or accommodation in advance whenever possible to avoid paying a huge fee or carrying hundreds of US dollars in cash.

If you do end up paying with card and copping the hefty fee, VISA is sometimes preferred over Mastercard (and definitely over AMEX). I’ve had cards randomly and inexplicably rejected from certain machines in Latin America, so it’s also a smart idea to have at least two debit/credit cards with you, just in case. 

For those travelling to the Galápagos, be aware that there are ATMs in Puerto Ayora (Santa Cruz) and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (San Cristóbal), but no where else. If you’re going to Isabela or Floreana, make sure to bring enough cash for your entire stay, as there will be no way to get money without travelling back to the other islands.

US dollar bills and coins used as official currency in Ecuador
US Dollars are the official currency in Ecuador

Trip budget for Ecuador

Ecuador is an inexpensive travel destination, particularly compared to other countries in Latin America. If you’re just exploring the mainland, travelling by public bus, staying in hostels, and doing the occasional paid activity, you can see Ecuador for about $28USD ($44AUD) per day.

For a 8-day, land-based trip to the Galápagos, I’ve worked out that you need about $1,000USD ($200AUD per day) including flights and national park fees, inexpensive accomodation, lunch and dinner at a restaurant, 2 diving tours, and 2 other island hopping or snorkelling tours.

Some people might say you can do it even cheaper than that, but it takes a lot of effort to get here, so my suggestion is to not scrimp too hard and really make sure you see a lot! Obviously $125USD per day is not sustainable for a long-term trip, but for just one week in the Galápagos, it really is worth it. The mainland is cheap enough to make up for it!

Cost-cutting tips

  • Instead of buying breakfast at a restaurant, grab a few rolls or pastries from a local bakery for just a handful of centavos!
  • Look for small local restaurants rather than touristy restaurant and always ask if they have a menu del día— this is an inexpensive daily set menu that usually includes a soup, main dish, and drink for $4-8USD (also a great way to try new local food!). Even many restaurants in the Galápagos offer a menu del día, which helps keep your budget under control on the islands.
  • In terms of visiting the Galápagos, a land-based DIY adventure is going to be much cheaper than booking a cruise or going through a tour agent. Most excursions can be booked as soon as you arrive on the island and will be a fraction of the price listed online.
  • Research DIY alternatives to popular tours and see if you can embark on your own, cheaper adventure without a group! For example, you can visit the popular Otavalo Markets from Quito for just $2.60USD each way on the bus compared to paying $50+ for a tour.
  • Take public buses whenever possible; they cover every imaginable route in Ecuador and usually cost just $1-2USD per hour of travel.
  • If it’s an option, always choose the night bus— not only does it maximise your time in each city, but it also saves money on accomodation for that night.
Colourful scarves at Otavalo Market Ecuador
Beautiful alpaca scarves at Otavalo Market

Typical expenses in Ecuador

  • Dorm bed in a hostel: $10-15USD
  • Airbnb, whole apartment: $25-40USD
  • Private room for two: $20-40USD
  • Lunch at a casual restaurant: $4-8USD for the menu del día
  • Street food meal: $1-2USD
  • Dinner at a restaurant: $10-20USD
  • Drink from a restaurant or bar: $2-5USD
  • Bottle of water: 50c
  • Snack from convenience store: 50c-$2USD
  • Ticket on public transport: 50c-$1USD
  • Taxi from Quito to the airport: $25USD
  • Bus to another city: $1-2USD per hour of bus travel
  • Flights from Quito or Guayaquil to Galápagos: $300-500USD return
  • Entry to Casa del Arbol: $2USD
  • Day tour from Quito to Cotopaxi National Park: $49USD
  • Ecuador Hop pass from Quito to Montañita: $159USD
Colourful buildings in Quito Ecuador

Colourful buildings in Quito, Ecuador

Practical considerations for Ecuador

Health concerns in Ecuador

Water

The water in Ecuador is not safe to drink straight from the tap, which leaves most travellers to buy several plastic water bottles every single day. Although inexpensive, this is TERRIBLE for the environment, so I’d strongly encourage you to get a filtered water bottle instead, which will allow you to fill up from any water source (bathroom tap, stream, etc) and still enjoy clean, safe drinking water. 

Some very sensitive people avoid brushing their teeth with tap water, but I’ve never had (or known anyone who has had) an issue with this in Ecuador. It is also true that you should avoid ice cubes in places where the water is unsafe, but it should be fine to have ice in your drinks or eat washed vegetables in most restaurants, particularly touristy restaurants.

Map of Ecuador showing areas of malaria risk
[courtesy of fitfortravel.nhs.uk]

Vaccinations & medication 

For most travellers to Ecuador, there aren’t too many diseases you need to worry about and no vaccinations actually required for entry. 

Malaria and yellow fever risk are considered to be very low or actually non-existent in all of the country’s popular destinations like Quito, Baños, Montañita, Guayaquil, Galápagos, etc, so unless you’re planning extensive travel into the Amazon, there’s probably no need to take a prophylaxis. 

Most doctors will also suggest routine vaccinations like Hep A/B, typhoid, and rabies before your trip, but these are not a requirement to enter the country.

Altitude & acclimatisation

Minor symptoms related to the altitude (and, to a lesser extent, true altitude sickness) is a possibility when travelling in Ecuador, including Quito (2,850m) or trekking up Volcán Cotopaxi (5,897m). These symptoms can be as minor as general fatigue and lightheadedness, and most people probably won’t even notice anything until they go up the TelefériQo or actually do some hiking, but it’s still good to be aware of what altitude sickness looks like.

If you’re doing extended solo trekking (i.e. without a guide or tour group) in Ecuador or if know you have a bad reaction to altitude, I’d recommend getting a prescription for altitude sickness medication from your doctor. For most people, this will be entirely unnecessary, but trekkers should get Acetazolamide (Diamox), Dexamethasone, and Nifedipine and understand how to use them in case of an adverse reaction to the altitude.

I wrote two extremely detailed posts about the different types of altitude sickness and how to prevent/treat it on your trip, so I’d recommend reading both of these for a lot more info:

  • For general altitude info relevant to all travellers in Ecuador: A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO ALTITUDE SICKNESS IN SOUTH AMERICA
  • For altitude advice specific to hikers in Ecuador: HIGH-ALTITUDE TREKKING: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO PREVENTING & TREATING ALTITUDE SICKNESS IN THE MOUNTAINS
Diving with Manta Ray in Bajo Cope, Ayangue
Scuba diving with Manta Ray in Bajo Cope, Ayangue

Safety in Ecuador

Generally speaking, Ecuador is a very safe country, even for solo female travellers, as long as you use common sense and take some basic safety precautions.

Really, the main places you need to be alert are Quito and Guayaquil— it’s probably best not to walk around alone at night, always take an Uber rather than a taxi, and keep your personal belongings close in crowded public areas. During the day, I was more than comfortable alone, even carrying my camera, but don’t do anything to make yourself a target for petty theft (e.g. don’t put your phone/money in a back pocket if you’re walking through a crowd of people). 

Travelling on public buses, you also need to be very aware of your belongings, such as placing your large backpack/suitcase under the bus by yourself (not letting someone carry it off the bus “to put it underneath for you”) and keeping your carry on items in your lap or at your feet. I didn’t experience it myself, but there are a number of known bus-related scams in Ecuador, so just make sure to keep an eye on your valuables and you should be fine.

Here are some BASIC and very common sense tips for keeping safe in Ecuador:

  • Buy a local SIM card and use Google Maps to avoid getting lost in a new city. Read more about that in Communication & connectivity below.
  • Rather than getting in a taxi off the street, call an Uber, have your hostel call you a taxi, or use an app like Cabify. This is especially important at night or if you are travelling alone!
  • Ask at hostel reception if it’s safe to visit a certain area alone at night before you go out, and if not, make some friends to go with you or wait until a safer time.
  • Don’t carry large amounts of cash on your person and definitely don’t carry them in an obvious way. It’s fine to bring a purse or backpack around town if you keep a close watch on it (so don’t set it down), and you REALLY don’t need a ridiculous nude-coloured money belt.
  • There was no where in Ecuador where I felt like I couldn’t have my camera out during the day (and I’ve got a pretty large DSLR), so as long as you keep a hold on your electronics and pay attention to your surroundings, and you should be fine. 
  • Bring a lock so you can secure your valuables in a locker at your hostel while you’re out during the day. 
  • Bus stations in Ecuador, and even buses themselves, are the most likely places to encounter petty thieves, so make sure to hold your bags securely, place any large items under the bus YOURSELF, and keep your valuables in your lap for the ride.
Plaza de la Independencia
Plaza de la Independencia

Language barrier in Ecuador

As with most everywhere in South America, there is a very real language barrier in Ecuador and I really wouldn’t recommend travelling here without learning some basic Spanish phrases. Any tour guides will speak English, but most waiters, cashiers, hostel staff, taxi drivers, bus station employees, and just general people on the street won’t speak a word. Yes, seriously, sometimes hostel reception will not speak ANY English.

The exception to this is the Galápagos, where most everyone works in tourism and therefore typically speaks at least a basic level of English, but it still doesn’t mean that everyone does (at one of the hotels I stayed in, none of the staff knew any English at all).

Even just learning how to order food, buy bus tickets, ask for directions, and pay for things in Spanish will make your trip to Ecuador so much smoother (and actually more enjoyable). When in doubt: Google Translate, which can be downloaded for offline use).

Some useful phrases to master now:

  • Habla Inglés? | Do you speak English?
  • Lo siento | I’m sorry
  • Disculpe | Excuse me
  • De donde eres? | Where are you from?
  • Me llamo [your name] | My name is ….
  • Yo tengo venticinco años | I am 25 years old
  • Estoy viajando por seis meses | I am travelling for 6 months 
  • Yo necesito comprar un boleto a [your destination] | I need to buy a bus ticket to [your destination]
  • A qué hora es el próximo bus? | What time is the next bus?
  • Cuánto cuesta? | How much does it cost?
  • Donde esta el baño? | Where is the bathroom?
  • La cuenta, por favour | The check, please.
Group white water rafting on Rio Pastaza Baños
White water rafting on Rio Pastaza

Communication & connectivity in Ecuador

Local SIM cards

I’d highly recommend getting a local SIM card when you arrive in Ecuador, as this will allow you to use Google Maps and Uber to get around (absolutely essential in bigger cities like Quito and Guayaquil). Apparently only citizens can buy an actual SIM card, so you’ll probably end up buying a tourist SIM card at a higher rate, but it’s still worthwhile!

Movistar tourist SIM cards are available in the Arrivals Hall of the Quito airport for $25USD, which includes 2GB of data, unlimited WhatsApp, and some calling/texting credit (which you probably won’t use). I found reception to be perfectly adequate, especially on the mainland, and it was excellent peace of mind to know that I could always pull up maps if I got lost or call a car if I wanted to head back to my hostel!

Wifi access

Most every hostel or Airbnb in Ecuador offers wifi, but outside of this, you can also find free wifi at some cafes and restaurants. This is obviously restricted to more touristy destinations, but there are very few occasions travelling through Ecuador where you wouldn’t be able to find wifi somewhere if you really needed it— and the places where you can’t, like the National Park, it’s probably better to unplug anyway!

You can use an app like Wifi Map to find heaps of free public wifi hotspots or restaurants that offer wifi to customers in any city, including most of Ecuador.

Packing list for Ecuador

I’ve written 2 different detailed packing lists for Ecuador, so you can check them out below:

  • Packing list for mainland and Galápagos: THE PERFECT 2-3 WEEK GALÁPAGOS & MAINLAND ECUADOR TRAVEL ITINERARY
  • Packing list just for the Galápagos: GALÁPAGOS PACKING LIST: WHAT TO PACK FOR A LAND-BASED TRIP
Boats lined up in clear blue water Galápagos

Water taxis in the Galápagos

More about Ecuador on Brooke Around Town

THE PERFECT 2-3 WEEK GALÁPAGOS & MAINLAND ECUADOR TRAVEL ITINERARY

AN HONEST REVIEW OF ECUADOR HOP

9 AMAZING THINGS TO DO IN BAÑOS: A GUIDE TO ECUADOR’S ADVENTURE CAPITAL

RUTA DE LAS CASCADAS: BIKING THE WATERFALL ROUTE IN BAÑOS, ECUADOR

HIKING TO REFUGIO JOSÉ RIVAS & COTOPAXI GLACIER IN ECUADOR

WHAT TO DO IN QUITO: 12 AWESOME THINGS TO DO IN ECUADOR’S CAPITAL

THE BEST PLACE TO SCUBA DIVE WITH MANTA RAY IN ECUADOR: BAJO COPE, AYANGUE

ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT A LAND-BASED TRIP TO THE GALÁPAGOS (WITHOUT A CRUISE)

GALÁPAGOS PACKING LIST: WHAT TO PACK FOR A LAND-BASED TRIP

GALÁPAGOS ON A BUDGET: SANTA CRUZ ISLAND & PUERTO AYORA TRAVEL GUIDE

A DAY TRIP TO ISLA BARTOLOMÉ, THE MOST PHOTOGENIC ISLAND IN THE GALÁPAGOS

GALÁPAGOS ON A BUDGET: ISLA ISABELA & PUERTO VILLAMIL TRAVEL GUIDE

SNORKELLING AT LAS TINTORERAS ON ISLA ISABELA, GALÁPAGOS

LOS HUMEDALES & EL MURO DE LAS LÁGRIMAS: A GUIDE TO CYCLING TO THE WALL OF TEARS ON ISLA ISABELA

SNORKELLING AT LOS TUNELES: THE BEST DAY TOUR ON ISLA ISABELA, GALÁPAGOS

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brooke beyond

Hey, I'm Brooke and I'm obsessed with getting off the beaten path, exploring backcountry gems & travelling beyond the ordinary! I left Australia 5 years ago after finishing a PhD in Biomechanics & have been travelling the world full-time ever since (joined by my life/climbing partner, James). Whether it’s road-tripping through Mexico, climbing alpine peaks in the Andes, scuba diving in the Red Sea, or tackling epic via ferrata in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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hi, I’m brooke!

I'm obsessed with getting off the beaten path, exploring backcountry gems & travelling beyond the ordinary! I left Australia 5 years ago after finishing a PhD in Biomechanics & have been travelling the world full-time ever since (now joined by my life/climbing partner, James). I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

read my story
currently exploring

currently exploring

mexico

travel resources

flights ✈️ Skyscanner

hotels 🏨 booking.com

car hire 🚗 discover cars

outdoor gear 🥾 REI

travel essentials 📸 Amazon

best travel eSIM 📲 Airalo

Travel insurance 💸 SafetyWing

outdoor gear

epic itineraries

hiking guides

GPS maps

recent posts

  • Teton Crest Trail: my epic 5-day backpacking route to Delta Lake + Middle/South Teton summits

    14 May 2025
  • Camera gear for travel photography: what we use as full-time travellers

    11 May 2025
  • Complete Ausangate Circuit & Rainbow Mountain packing list

    10 May 2025
  • Complete Salkantay Trek packing list: what to pack for hiking to Machu Picchu

    9 May 2025
  • Complete Inca Trail packing list: what to pack for hiking to Machu Picchu

    9 May 2025

@brookebeyond_
brooke ✨travel & mountain gal

@brookebeyond_

  • THIS 👆🏼IS MEXICO 

I’ve spent nearly 2 years exploring Mexico & barely scratched the surface of this incredible country— hands-down my favourite place to travel, even after 60 countries! México es mejor 🇲🇽

Follow @brookebeyond_ for more Mexico off the beaten path 🇲🇽✨

States featured in this video:
- Baja California (Norte)
- Campeche
- Chiapas
- Guanajuato
- Hidalgo
- Jalisco
- Michoacán
- Nuevo Leon
- Oaxaca
- Puebla
- Tabasco
- Quintana Roo
- Veracruz
- Yucatán
  • Thanks to everyone who’s checked in wondering where on earth I’ve disappeared to this past month… well, I’ve been dealing with an unexpected & rather serious knee issue and ended up having surgery here in San Cristóbal last week. 

It’s a long & depressing story, but basically I developed a rare inflammatory condition in the lining of my knee joint (that I’ve had previously in my ankle) and within 2 weeks I went from 100% healthy to literally unable to walk.

We’re extremely lucky to have been renting an apartment in San Cris during this time so I had access to high-quality medical care at a price that wouldn’t bankrupt us (uninsured outside Australia, heyooo 🤙🏼). 

I was able to get an MRI for $100 out of pocket, we found a really awesome local orthopaedic surgeon trained in arthroscopy, and I’ve been going to rehab a couple times a week with the sweetest physios. The fact that this happened in Mexico, where I feel at home and speak the language and everything just happens quickly/without a lot of formality is a true blessing. 

And still, it’s been really hard. I’ve spent most of the last month in bed, James has to carry me to the bathroom, and I haven’t even been able to shower for 10 days because of bandages. We had to cancel all of our summer climbing plans and not knowing when I’ll be able to walk or hike again has been heartbreaking for me.

Sharing this because I think full-time travel can appear perfect online, but beyond the highlight reel, there are plenty of shitty moments too— plans get cancelled, money is lost, injuries happen far from home, recovery doesn’t happen any quicker for me than it does for anyone else.

We’re staying put in Mexico for another few weeks and then hopefully moving to the next destination, but suffice to say 2025 is going to look a lot different than we imagined ❤️‍🩹
  • ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
.
.
.
.
.
#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
  • CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍

✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨

Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do).

And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!!

With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️

For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon

✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨
.
.
.
.
.
#altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
  • Ethiopia is one of the few places on Earth where you can trek across day-old lava flows & stand at the edge of a crater filled with liquid fire.

✨ Erta Ale & more included on our Ethiopia adventure trip in November, check out full details at bit.ly/beyond-Ethiopia ✨

Would you get this close?! 👀🔥
.
.
.
.
.
#ertaale #ethiopia #travelethiopia #travelafrica #volcano #bucketlist #travelgirls #adventuretravel #volcanoes
  • Come with us to explore one of the craziest places on the entire planet:📍 Danakil Depression, Ethiopia

✨ this & more included on our Ethiopia adventure trip in November, check out full details at the link in bio! ✨
.
.
.
.
.
#textures #ethiopia #travelethiopia #travelafrica #simienmountains #bucketlist #travelgirls #adventuretravel
  • ETHIOPIA GROUP TRIP 🌈🌋☕️✨

I’ve been teasing it all month, but I’m so excited to finally open  bookings for our group adventure trip to Ethiopia from 3-12 November!

✨click the link in my bio for trip details ✨

our 10-day Ethiopia itinerary includes:
🧆 cooking class + Addis Ababa city tour 
🌋 hiking on Erta Ale, an active volcano
🌈 neon acid springs in the Danakil Depression
⛰️ scrambling to ancient cliffside monasteries in Gheralta to camp with the local monks
🥾 3-day trek through the Simien Mountains
+
 🐋 optional 3-day extension to Djibouti to swim with whale sharks!!

✨full itinerary + booking details at bit.ly/beyond-ethiopia ✨
  • Bolivia isn’t the only place with epic salt flats…

📍Danakil Depression, Ethiopia

✨ this & more included on our Ethiopia adventure trip in November, check out full details at the link in bio! ✨
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#ethiopia #danakildepression #danakil #saltflats #travelethiopia #bucketlist #adventuretravel
  • ETHIOPIA’S TREKKING PARADISE ⛰️🇪🇹

Jagged peaks, sheer cliffs dropping thousands of metres, endless canyonlands & high-elevation plantlife that looks straight out of a fantasy novel.

The Simien Mountains are one of the most spectacular trekking destinations in the world—so why is no one talking about it?!

For 3 days, we hiked through some of the most dramatic landscapes I’ve ever seen, completely alone except for troops of Gelada Baboons (the “bleeding heart monkeys” that only live here). And at Imet Gogo, the most famous viewpoint, we sat on the edge of the escarpment in total awe & complete silence, no one but our local trekking guide for miles.

If you’re looking for epic trekking without the masses, Ethiopia needs to be on your radar. And luckily, we’ve got a group hiking trip on the calendar for November 😍

✨ DM for early access! ✨
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#textures #ethiopia #travelethiopia #travelafrica #simienmountains #bucketlist #travelgirls #adventuretravel
follow @brookebeyond_

travel beyond the ordinary

Explore my travel guides, custom itineraries & blog posts with an interactive world map ✨

all destinations

  • THIS 👆🏼IS MEXICO 

I’ve spent nearly 2 years exploring Mexico & barely scratched the surface of this incredible country— hands-down my favourite place to travel, even after 60 countries! México es mejor 🇲🇽

Follow @brookebeyond_ for more Mexico off the beaten path 🇲🇽✨

States featured in this video:
- Baja California (Norte)
- Campeche
- Chiapas
- Guanajuato
- Hidalgo
- Jalisco
- Michoacán
- Nuevo Leon
- Oaxaca
- Puebla
- Tabasco
- Quintana Roo
- Veracruz
- Yucatán
  • Thanks to everyone who’s checked in wondering where on earth I’ve disappeared to this past month… well, I’ve been dealing with an unexpected & rather serious knee issue and ended up having surgery here in San Cristóbal last week. 

It’s a long & depressing story, but basically I developed a rare inflammatory condition in the lining of my knee joint (that I’ve had previously in my ankle) and within 2 weeks I went from 100% healthy to literally unable to walk.

We’re extremely lucky to have been renting an apartment in San Cris during this time so I had access to high-quality medical care at a price that wouldn’t bankrupt us (uninsured outside Australia, heyooo 🤙🏼). 

I was able to get an MRI for $100 out of pocket, we found a really awesome local orthopaedic surgeon trained in arthroscopy, and I’ve been going to rehab a couple times a week with the sweetest physios. The fact that this happened in Mexico, where I feel at home and speak the language and everything just happens quickly/without a lot of formality is a true blessing. 

And still, it’s been really hard. I’ve spent most of the last month in bed, James has to carry me to the bathroom, and I haven’t even been able to shower for 10 days because of bandages. We had to cancel all of our summer climbing plans and not knowing when I’ll be able to walk or hike again has been heartbreaking for me.

Sharing this because I think full-time travel can appear perfect online, but beyond the highlight reel, there are plenty of shitty moments too— plans get cancelled, money is lost, injuries happen far from home, recovery doesn’t happen any quicker for me than it does for anyone else.

We’re staying put in Mexico for another few weeks and then hopefully moving to the next destination, but suffice to say 2025 is going to look a lot different than we imagined ❤️‍🩹
  • ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
.
.
.
.
.
#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
  • CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍

✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨

Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do).

And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!!

With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️

For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon

✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨
.
.
.
.
.
#altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
  • Ethiopia is one of the few places on Earth where you can trek across day-old lava flows & stand at the edge of a crater filled with liquid fire.

✨ Erta Ale & more included on our Ethiopia adventure trip in November, check out full details at bit.ly/beyond-Ethiopia ✨

Would you get this close?! 👀🔥
.
.
.
.
.
#ertaale #ethiopia #travelethiopia #travelafrica #volcano #bucketlist #travelgirls #adventuretravel #volcanoes
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
THIS 👆🏼IS MEXICO I’ve spent nearly 2 years exploring Mexico & barely scratched the surface of this incredible country— hands-down my favourite place to travel, even after 60 countries! México es mejor 🇲🇽 Follow @brookebeyond_ for more Mexico off the beaten path 🇲🇽✨ States featured in this video: - Baja California (Norte) - Campeche - Chiapas - Guanajuato - Hidalgo - Jalisco - Michoacán - Nuevo Leon - Oaxaca - Puebla - Tabasco - Quintana Roo - Veracruz - Yucatán
5 days ago
View on Instagram |
1/5
Thanks to everyone who’s checked in wondering where on earth I’ve disappeared to this past month… well, I’ve been dealing with an unexpected & rather serious knee issue and ended up having surgery here in San Cristóbal last week. 

It’s a long & depressing story, but basically I developed a rare inflammatory condition in the lining of my knee joint (that I’ve had previously in my ankle) and within 2 weeks I went from 100% healthy to literally unable to walk.

We’re extremely lucky to have been renting an apartment in San Cris during this time so I had access to high-quality medical care at a price that wouldn’t bankrupt us (uninsured outside Australia, heyooo 🤙🏼). 

I was able to get an MRI for $100 out of pocket, we found a really awesome local orthopaedic surgeon trained in arthroscopy, and I’ve been going to rehab a couple times a week with the sweetest physios. The fact that this happened in Mexico, where I feel at home and speak the language and everything just happens quickly/without a lot of formality is a true blessing. 

And still, it’s been really hard. I’ve spent most of the last month in bed, James has to carry me to the bathroom, and I haven’t even been able to shower for 10 days because of bandages. We had to cancel all of our summer climbing plans and not knowing when I’ll be able to walk or hike again has been heartbreaking for me.

Sharing this because I think full-time travel can appear perfect online, but beyond the highlight reel, there are plenty of shitty moments too— plans get cancelled, money is lost, injuries happen far from home, recovery doesn’t happen any quicker for me than it does for anyone else.

We’re staying put in Mexico for another few weeks and then hopefully moving to the next destination, but suffice to say 2025 is going to look a lot different than we imagined ❤️‍🩹
Thanks to everyone who’s checked in wondering where on earth I’ve disappeared to this past month… well, I’ve been dealing with an unexpected & rather serious knee issue and ended up having surgery here in San Cristóbal last week. 

It’s a long & depressing story, but basically I developed a rare inflammatory condition in the lining of my knee joint (that I’ve had previously in my ankle) and within 2 weeks I went from 100% healthy to literally unable to walk.

We’re extremely lucky to have been renting an apartment in San Cris during this time so I had access to high-quality medical care at a price that wouldn’t bankrupt us (uninsured outside Australia, heyooo 🤙🏼). 

I was able to get an MRI for $100 out of pocket, we found a really awesome local orthopaedic surgeon trained in arthroscopy, and I’ve been going to rehab a couple times a week with the sweetest physios. The fact that this happened in Mexico, where I feel at home and speak the language and everything just happens quickly/without a lot of formality is a true blessing. 

And still, it’s been really hard. I’ve spent most of the last month in bed, James has to carry me to the bathroom, and I haven’t even been able to shower for 10 days because of bandages. We had to cancel all of our summer climbing plans and not knowing when I’ll be able to walk or hike again has been heartbreaking for me.

Sharing this because I think full-time travel can appear perfect online, but beyond the highlight reel, there are plenty of shitty moments too— plans get cancelled, money is lost, injuries happen far from home, recovery doesn’t happen any quicker for me than it does for anyone else.

We’re staying put in Mexico for another few weeks and then hopefully moving to the next destination, but suffice to say 2025 is going to look a lot different than we imagined ❤️‍🩹
Thanks to everyone who’s checked in wondering where on earth I’ve disappeared to this past month… well, I’ve been dealing with an unexpected & rather serious knee issue and ended up having surgery here in San Cristóbal last week. 

It’s a long & depressing story, but basically I developed a rare inflammatory condition in the lining of my knee joint (that I’ve had previously in my ankle) and within 2 weeks I went from 100% healthy to literally unable to walk.

We’re extremely lucky to have been renting an apartment in San Cris during this time so I had access to high-quality medical care at a price that wouldn’t bankrupt us (uninsured outside Australia, heyooo 🤙🏼). 

I was able to get an MRI for $100 out of pocket, we found a really awesome local orthopaedic surgeon trained in arthroscopy, and I’ve been going to rehab a couple times a week with the sweetest physios. The fact that this happened in Mexico, where I feel at home and speak the language and everything just happens quickly/without a lot of formality is a true blessing. 

And still, it’s been really hard. I’ve spent most of the last month in bed, James has to carry me to the bathroom, and I haven’t even been able to shower for 10 days because of bandages. We had to cancel all of our summer climbing plans and not knowing when I’ll be able to walk or hike again has been heartbreaking for me.

Sharing this because I think full-time travel can appear perfect online, but beyond the highlight reel, there are plenty of shitty moments too— plans get cancelled, money is lost, injuries happen far from home, recovery doesn’t happen any quicker for me than it does for anyone else.

We’re staying put in Mexico for another few weeks and then hopefully moving to the next destination, but suffice to say 2025 is going to look a lot different than we imagined ❤️‍🩹
Thanks to everyone who’s checked in wondering where on earth I’ve disappeared to this past month… well, I’ve been dealing with an unexpected & rather serious knee issue and ended up having surgery here in San Cristóbal last week. 

It’s a long & depressing story, but basically I developed a rare inflammatory condition in the lining of my knee joint (that I’ve had previously in my ankle) and within 2 weeks I went from 100% healthy to literally unable to walk.

We’re extremely lucky to have been renting an apartment in San Cris during this time so I had access to high-quality medical care at a price that wouldn’t bankrupt us (uninsured outside Australia, heyooo 🤙🏼). 

I was able to get an MRI for $100 out of pocket, we found a really awesome local orthopaedic surgeon trained in arthroscopy, and I’ve been going to rehab a couple times a week with the sweetest physios. The fact that this happened in Mexico, where I feel at home and speak the language and everything just happens quickly/without a lot of formality is a true blessing. 

And still, it’s been really hard. I’ve spent most of the last month in bed, James has to carry me to the bathroom, and I haven’t even been able to shower for 10 days because of bandages. We had to cancel all of our summer climbing plans and not knowing when I’ll be able to walk or hike again has been heartbreaking for me.

Sharing this because I think full-time travel can appear perfect online, but beyond the highlight reel, there are plenty of shitty moments too— plans get cancelled, money is lost, injuries happen far from home, recovery doesn’t happen any quicker for me than it does for anyone else.

We’re staying put in Mexico for another few weeks and then hopefully moving to the next destination, but suffice to say 2025 is going to look a lot different than we imagined ❤️‍🩹
Thanks to everyone who’s checked in wondering where on earth I’ve disappeared to this past month… well, I’ve been dealing with an unexpected & rather serious knee issue and ended up having surgery here in San Cristóbal last week. 

It’s a long & depressing story, but basically I developed a rare inflammatory condition in the lining of my knee joint (that I’ve had previously in my ankle) and within 2 weeks I went from 100% healthy to literally unable to walk.

We’re extremely lucky to have been renting an apartment in San Cris during this time so I had access to high-quality medical care at a price that wouldn’t bankrupt us (uninsured outside Australia, heyooo 🤙🏼). 

I was able to get an MRI for $100 out of pocket, we found a really awesome local orthopaedic surgeon trained in arthroscopy, and I’ve been going to rehab a couple times a week with the sweetest physios. The fact that this happened in Mexico, where I feel at home and speak the language and everything just happens quickly/without a lot of formality is a true blessing. 

And still, it’s been really hard. I’ve spent most of the last month in bed, James has to carry me to the bathroom, and I haven’t even been able to shower for 10 days because of bandages. We had to cancel all of our summer climbing plans and not knowing when I’ll be able to walk or hike again has been heartbreaking for me.

Sharing this because I think full-time travel can appear perfect online, but beyond the highlight reel, there are plenty of shitty moments too— plans get cancelled, money is lost, injuries happen far from home, recovery doesn’t happen any quicker for me than it does for anyone else.

We’re staying put in Mexico for another few weeks and then hopefully moving to the next destination, but suffice to say 2025 is going to look a lot different than we imagined ❤️‍🩹
Thanks to everyone who’s checked in wondering where on earth I’ve disappeared to this past month… well, I’ve been dealing with an unexpected & rather serious knee issue and ended up having surgery here in San Cristóbal last week. 

It’s a long & depressing story, but basically I developed a rare inflammatory condition in the lining of my knee joint (that I’ve had previously in my ankle) and within 2 weeks I went from 100% healthy to literally unable to walk.

We’re extremely lucky to have been renting an apartment in San Cris during this time so I had access to high-quality medical care at a price that wouldn’t bankrupt us (uninsured outside Australia, heyooo 🤙🏼). 

I was able to get an MRI for $100 out of pocket, we found a really awesome local orthopaedic surgeon trained in arthroscopy, and I’ve been going to rehab a couple times a week with the sweetest physios. The fact that this happened in Mexico, where I feel at home and speak the language and everything just happens quickly/without a lot of formality is a true blessing. 

And still, it’s been really hard. I’ve spent most of the last month in bed, James has to carry me to the bathroom, and I haven’t even been able to shower for 10 days because of bandages. We had to cancel all of our summer climbing plans and not knowing when I’ll be able to walk or hike again has been heartbreaking for me.

Sharing this because I think full-time travel can appear perfect online, but beyond the highlight reel, there are plenty of shitty moments too— plans get cancelled, money is lost, injuries happen far from home, recovery doesn’t happen any quicker for me than it does for anyone else.

We’re staying put in Mexico for another few weeks and then hopefully moving to the next destination, but suffice to say 2025 is going to look a lot different than we imagined ❤️‍🩹
Thanks to everyone who’s checked in wondering where on earth I’ve disappeared to this past month… well, I’ve been dealing with an unexpected & rather serious knee issue and ended up having surgery here in San Cristóbal last week. 

It’s a long & depressing story, but basically I developed a rare inflammatory condition in the lining of my knee joint (that I’ve had previously in my ankle) and within 2 weeks I went from 100% healthy to literally unable to walk.

We’re extremely lucky to have been renting an apartment in San Cris during this time so I had access to high-quality medical care at a price that wouldn’t bankrupt us (uninsured outside Australia, heyooo 🤙🏼). 

I was able to get an MRI for $100 out of pocket, we found a really awesome local orthopaedic surgeon trained in arthroscopy, and I’ve been going to rehab a couple times a week with the sweetest physios. The fact that this happened in Mexico, where I feel at home and speak the language and everything just happens quickly/without a lot of formality is a true blessing. 

And still, it’s been really hard. I’ve spent most of the last month in bed, James has to carry me to the bathroom, and I haven’t even been able to shower for 10 days because of bandages. We had to cancel all of our summer climbing plans and not knowing when I’ll be able to walk or hike again has been heartbreaking for me.

Sharing this because I think full-time travel can appear perfect online, but beyond the highlight reel, there are plenty of shitty moments too— plans get cancelled, money is lost, injuries happen far from home, recovery doesn’t happen any quicker for me than it does for anyone else.

We’re staying put in Mexico for another few weeks and then hopefully moving to the next destination, but suffice to say 2025 is going to look a lot different than we imagined ❤️‍🩹
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
Thanks to everyone who’s checked in wondering where on earth I’ve disappeared to this past month… well, I’ve been dealing with an unexpected & rather serious knee issue and ended up having surgery here in San Cristóbal last week. It’s a long & depressing story, but basically I developed a rare inflammatory condition in the lining of my knee joint (that I’ve had previously in my ankle) and within 2 weeks I went from 100% healthy to literally unable to walk. We’re extremely lucky to have been renting an apartment in San Cris during this time so I had access to high-quality medical care at a price that wouldn’t bankrupt us (uninsured outside Australia, heyooo 🤙🏼). I was able to get an MRI for $100 out of pocket, we found a really awesome local orthopaedic surgeon trained in arthroscopy, and I’ve been going to rehab a couple times a week with the sweetest physios. The fact that this happened in Mexico, where I feel at home and speak the language and everything just happens quickly/without a lot of formality is a true blessing. And still, it’s been really hard. I’ve spent most of the last month in bed, James has to carry me to the bathroom, and I haven’t even been able to shower for 10 days because of bandages. We had to cancel all of our summer climbing plans and not knowing when I’ll be able to walk or hike again has been heartbreaking for me. Sharing this because I think full-time travel can appear perfect online, but beyond the highlight reel, there are plenty of shitty moments too— plans get cancelled, money is lost, injuries happen far from home, recovery doesn’t happen any quicker for me than it does for anyone else. We’re staying put in Mexico for another few weeks and then hopefully moving to the next destination, but suffice to say 2025 is going to look a lot different than we imagined ❤️‍🩹
2 weeks ago
View on Instagram |
2/5
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨

Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. 

This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12].

Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. 

On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion.

Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨
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#ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
ገና (GENA) ETHIOPIAN CHRISTMAS ✞🕯️✨ Weeks after most of the world has packed away their decorations (because Ethiopia follows its own ancient calendar, Christmas here falls on January 7th), a million worshippers all draped in white gather around Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches for Gena. This is the centre of Orthodox Christianity in Africa & many have walked barefoot for weeks across mountains just to be here, seeking blessings from the local priests & divinity from the wrinkled monks [photos 3 & 12]. Makeshift camps are set up in the fields around Lalibela [photos 6-7] & strangers become neighbours for a few weeks, cooking & singing & praying & sharing food in the build-up to Christmas. On the night of January 6th, thousands assemble at Bet Maryam for an all-night vigil, Ge’ez hymns & drumbeats reverberating in the candlelight & whispered prayers filling the air [photos 15-17]. By sunrise, the 43-day fast (of animal products) is broken & most families slaughter a goat or sheep for the occasion. Even as a foreign atheist, the whole experience was inarguably divine ✞🕯️✨ . . . . . #ethiopia #lalibela #gena #ethiopianchristmas #christmas #travelethiopia #ethiopianculture #ethiopianorthodox
1 month ago
View on Instagram |
3/5
CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍

✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨

Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do).

And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!!

With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️

For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon

✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨
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#altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍

✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨

Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do).

And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!!

With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️

For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon

✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨
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#altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍

✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨

Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do).

And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!!

With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️

For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon

✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨
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#altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍

✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨

Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do).

And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!!

With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️

For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon

✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨
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.
.
#altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍

✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨

Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do).

And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!!

With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️

For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon

✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨
.
.
.
.
.
#altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍

✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨

Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do).

And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!!

With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️

For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon

✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨
.
.
.
.
.
#altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍

✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨

Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do).

And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!!

With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️

For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon

✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨
.
.
.
.
.
#altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍

✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨

Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do).

And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!!

With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️

For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon

✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨
.
.
.
.
.
#altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍

✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨

Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do).

And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!!

With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️

For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon

✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨
.
.
.
.
.
#altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
@brookebeyond_
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CUSTOM GPS MAPS NOW LIVE!!!!! 🗺️🌎📍 ✨ shop.brookebeyond.com ✨ Before every single backpacking trip, hut-to-hut & alpine expedition, I spend dozens of hours building a custom GPS track to help me navigate along the route confidently, especially when going off-trail (as I love to do). And after MANY requests to share my custom routes, I am finally ready to release super detailed JSON/GPX files that you can use to plan your own epic adventure off the beaten path— navigating right off your smartphone!!! With new detailed notes at every single waypoint, better route beta, more alternatives, and updates based on my successful adventures, these maps reflect a lot of work + I am super excited to share them with the world 🗺️ For now, I’ve got Alta Via 2, Alta Via 4, and Aconcagua summit (via Horcones Valley) for sale, with more in the pipeline sooooon ✨ please share with anyone planning to hike AV2/AV4 or climb Aconcagua✨ . . . . . #altavia2 #altavia4 #av2 #av4 #italiandolomites #dolomites #dolomiti #aconcagua #horconesvalley #aconcaguasummit #solohiking #GPSmaps
1 month ago
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@brookebeyond_
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Ethiopia is one of the few places on Earth where you can trek across day-old lava flows & stand at the edge of a crater filled with liquid fire. ✨ Erta Ale & more included on our Ethiopia adventure trip in November, check out full details at bit.ly/beyond-Ethiopia ✨ Would you get this close?! 👀🔥 . . . . . #ertaale #ethiopia #travelethiopia #travelafrica #volcano #bucketlist #travelgirls #adventuretravel #volcanoes
2 months ago
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