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Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
USA / Washington

What fresh hell is this?: Ptarmigan Traverse 2021

23 August 2021

Pioneered in 1938 by the Ptarmigan Climbing Club, a group of 4 climbers out of Seattle who summited 12 peaks and put up half as many first assents over just 13 days, the iconic Ptarmigan Traverse represents Washington mountaineering at its very finest. Each day brings high passes, steep glaciers, windy summits, and sparkling lakes, all set against the impossibly picturesque backdrop of the snow-capped North Cascades. 

No creativity was wasted in crafting a Ptarmigan Traverse of our very own, informed by previous trips both dad and Eileen had undertaken and incorporating every worthwhile side-trip we could possibly manage within a 9-day schedule. We were prepped and ready for one of the most spectacular PTs ever executed, but of course the mountains had other plans.

Despite good planning, we were faced with days of rain and thick fog followed by an excessive heat warning, smoky skies, multiple group injuries, horrible glacier conditions, blue ice, and just about every obstacle one could possibly imagine— we continually missed summits and were even forced to bail out via an alternate route. For all the times I wondered aloud what fresh hell awaited us around the corner (and it was always something), there’s still no denying this was a Ptarmigan Traverse for the books.

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Dismal conditions at Cascade Pass TH

Day 1: Cascade River Road to Cascade Pass TH

After a lengthy drive from Bellevue to Kirkland to Seattle to Marblemount, followed by an enormous dinner at Mondo’s, Derek dropped me, dad, Eileen, Kellie, Doug, and Todd at the El Dorado Trailhead (mile 20) around 8.30pm. We quickly readied packs, distributed group gear, and hit the pavement. 

With Cascade River Road partially closed yet again (although it was all the way to mile 18 when we did Buckner last week), our journey began with an exhilarating 3.5mi road hike. 

We managed to make it to the trailhead without headlamps, but only by sheer stubbornness— it was long past sunset and I could hardly see as I pitched camp next to the parking lot bathrooms (what Kellie and I fondly referred to as “our spot”). Already full from burgers on the road, we all tucked in and braced for the night’s forecast of constant rain. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Packing in the bathrooms at Cascade Pass TH

Day 2: Cascade Pass TH to Kool-Aid Lake via Cache Col

Sure enough, we awoke to soaking tents and zero visibility, eventually making very slow work of packing up camp since no one was particularly eager to leave in this weather.

By 8.30am, we hit the trail up to Cascade Pass, pack covers billowing, rain gear fully engaged, and with a perhaps misplaced hope that conditions would soon improve. 

Having just been up here to climb Sahale and Buckner a few weeks ago, I was somewhat familiar with the trail and Cascade Pass, so by the time we did arrive at the top a very slow 2.5hrs later, I wasn’t overly disappointed (and certainly not surprised) to see the entirety of the usually beautiful view obstructed by thick clouds. I didn’t bother photographing the fog, but here’s what we were missing:

Sahale Arm Buckner Boston Basin North Cascades National Park hike climb
Cascade Pass under sunny conditions

We were quickly driven onwards by the huge swells of wind washing over the pass, turning right to follow a narrow but well-worn boot path past the toilets and up the opposite mountainside as Sahale Arm. Soaked bushes beat us with water until we were all dripping wet and painfully shivering, while the rain overhead never let up. 

Soon we reached a muddy gulch and had to descend over precarious scree and polished rocks already soaked by rain, only to climb up the other side of the dirt bank on impossibly steep sludge. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Dad climbing through the sludge

I could hardly see the climbers ahead or behind me, and certainly not as we kicked steps across an icy snow slope, their shadows gradually falling away into the mist. 

There was much shouting and “woo woo”-ing as we struggled to communicate, but finally everyone reached the edge of the Cache Glacier and stepped into crampons for the final push to Cache Col. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

By 3pm, we were standing in the lush meadows of Cache Col, just in time to catch a fleeting glimpse of the dark mountains and blue-ice glaciers in the distance before clouds rolled back over and encased everything in white once again. 

Off the other side, there was a boot path worn alongside the heather that led all the way to Kool-Aid Lake, via a slippery but otherwise harmless boulder field and what would have been staggering views of Formidable.

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

We arrived at Kool-Aid Lake shortly thereafter and, although it wasn’t our original destination for the night, the group unanimously decided to pitch camp here after our gruelling day, taking advantage of an extremely brief break in the rain to pitch tents. As if on queue, the rain returned as soon as we’d finished setting up, so all retreated indoors for a hot meal cooked in the tent vestibule. 

Much of my pack contents were wet, all my clothes were soaked, and the tent itself hadn’t even dried fully after the previous night, but somehow Kellie and I got comfortable in our tent, managed to dry some of our wet clothes with body heat, and passed out early to the sound of rain pattering the tent fly. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Stuck in the fog at Kool-Aid Lake for 36hrs

Day 3: Stuck at Kool-Aid Lake 

We awoke some 12hrs later to terrible conditions, with rain still pelting down and even worse visibility than the previous night. Our route up Red Ledge was entirely obscured and there was no way we’d be able to make any reasonable or safe progress this morning, so instead we rolled over and went back to sleep, waiting for news on the InReach of when the weather might break. 

By 3pm, we’d failed to receive any promising updates. I was feeling genuinely sick of hiding in my wet tent, but equally unenthusiastic about going anywhere outdoors— and so we continued to sit, or rather lay, and wait out the weather until the following morning. This involved a lot of napping, general fiddling, and some intermittent Steely Dan.

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Fog finally lifting over our tents at Kool-Aid Lake

Day 4: Kool-Aid Lake to Yang Yang Lakes 

After being woken up around 6am to dad muttering from the neighbouring tent “oh fuck”, I was surprised and delighted to open my tent an hour later to a few sun rays burning through the fog and gradually revealing the hulking peaks that surrounded us on all sides.

40hrs after crawling into our tents on the afternoon of Day 2, and it finally looked like we were going to be continuing along the Ptarmigan. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

Excitement was palpable as we departed camp and watched the fog burn out of the basin, navigating through a rock field towards the infamous Red Ledge, which we could actually see for the first time in 2 days. 

Even this notoriously tricky section of the route, now accessed by a straightforward Class 3 scramble due to receding snow, felt exhilarating, proof of just how tired we’d all grown of the inside of our tents.

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

After donning crampons and crossing a small snowfield, we dropped over the side of a moat and climbed on prusiks up to the rocky maroon ledge, from which we could walk around the backside of the mountain and into full view of Formidable and her very formidable glacier. 

The next hour passed quickly as we ran along a well-worn path through the heather, eventually crossing through another rock field en route to the Middle Cascade Glacier that would bring us up the Spider-Formidable Col. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Looking out at Formidable
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Hiking a pleasant trail through the heather to reach the glacier

All the while, views of snowy peaks and rough glaciers commanded our attention, slowing progress to a near halt for frequent photo opportunities. The sun was out, the fog was almost entirely lifted, and I could hardly imagine a more spectacular place to be in that exact moment. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

It was 1pm before we reached the edge of the glacier and broke for lunch— a social affair that lasted almost an entire hour before we finally geared up for the climb to Spider-Formidable Col. 

Despite the many crevasses baring a direct path to the col, conditions were prime and we breezed up the glacier without a single stumble. 

At the front of the rope for once (still following behind the first rope team, though), I took every opportunity to peer into the intricate latticework of blue ice concealed within each crevasse and admire what was truly a staggeringly beautiful glacier surrounded by equally impressive peaks. I could hardly smack the smile off my face. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Navigating around crevasses on the Middle Cascade Glacier
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

Once over the col, we made quick work of descending a short dirt chute on the opposite side and connecting back with the snow for our descent. If possible, this side of the pass boasted even more superb scenery, with the LaConte Glacier and her glassy turquoise lakes stealing the show. 

I fell into near-hysterics as dad recounted having overheard a woman on the Lady of the Lake tell her out-of-town visitors that “it’s crazy that people think these are mountains. I’ve been to Switzerland and I know mountains. Washington has no mountains.” 

Having also been to Switzerland myself, and on a long-distance backpacking trip no less, I don’t think I’d rate the North Cascades a single step below the Alps— these are every bit as grand, and about one million times more pristine. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
LeConte Glacier as seen from Spider-Formidable Col

Continuing our descent, I locked into a stable position against the rocks to belay Kellie and Eileen down the snow slope before following, eventually turning in to front-point the final stretch with my axe punched firmly into the ice. 

The ordeal was momentarily reminiscent of our brutal descent on Buckner, but thankfully no where near as steep, soft, or long— and therefore nothing like Buckner, as it turned out. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Descending from the Spider-Formidable Col

Just as our first rope team was reaching level snow, a massive rock fall crashed down and connected with dad’s knee, sending the upper rope team sliding down the ice as he swore through a swell of pain. The blood was minimal, but I’d watched the rock contact his leg and knew the bruising would be no joke. 

We doctored his knee up as best we could, sliding easily into my role as the unlicensed medical professional of the group, and then we divided some of his pack weight amongst us for the onward journey, all anxiously looking to dad for some sign that we was going to be alright. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

After dad had iced his knee and felt ready to move, we set out to reach Yang Yang Lakes along a faint trail through rocky terrain and heather hills. Despite crossing a snowfield and several talus slopes in the process, he never gave any verbal indication of discomfort, but I could see him grimace with every step when I turned around. 

It wasn’t a moment too soon when we finally arrived to our camp at 7pm— not for dad’s swelling knee, nor for our still-wet tents, and not for the rest of our tired group. It had been an 11hr day full of enough excitement for several. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Morning at Yang-Yang Lakes

Day 5: Yang Yang Lakes to White Rock Lakes

The day began pleasantly enough, rolling out of our beautiful site at Yang Yang Lakes and ascending a steep trail through the heather to gain the rocky ridgeline overhead. 

The view of the lakes below, as well as the snow-capped peaks dominating the horizon, was just incredible. Looking out at the narrow snow chute we’d descended the previous afternoon from Spider-Formidable Col, I could hardly even believe how far we’d come— only a fraction of how far we’d have to go. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
A tiny hiker (me) on Hahlakl Peak
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Yang-Yang Lakes from Hahlakl Peak
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
View back onto the Spider-Formidable Col

Once the entire group had arrived to the top of the ridge (which we later learned was the summit of Hahlakl Peak, and then took to remarking at every future failed summit attempt ‘at least we’ll always have Hahlakl’), Todd, Kellie, and I moved ahead to scout a route through the mass of talus that stood between us and the LeConte Glacier. 

It proved a difficult task, but we did finally make our way over the rocks and onto the snow, traversing across an irritating series of rock ribs (continually putting crampons on only to remove them minutes later)— demonstrating yet again that there is a market for retractable crampons, despite the disturbingly lacklustre response from Dan when I originally revealed the business idea. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

Again, the view was absolutely ridiculous, and actually bore a striking resemblance to one of my favourite Andean massifs in Peru, Ausangate. 

Both are a crowd of peaks above a wild icy glacier that drops eventually to turquoise lakes below, and both are enough to completely overwhelm you. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Heading towards the LeConte Glacier
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Turquoise LeConte Lakes

After an eternity of route-finding along inconvenient and somewhat messy rock ribs, we finally reached the base of the LeConte Glacier— and collectively winced at the sight of the hulking crevasses and solid blue ice that covered the entire route. 

Much deliberation ensued, including a scouting mission by Kellie and dad, but it was eventually decided that we could hug the rock to the right of the glacier and travel several hundred feet on reasonable snow before cutting across the ice to reach the snowy cap of Sentinel Pass.

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

The route unfolded beautifully before us, but was still wildly difficult— I could hardly dig my crampons more than a few centimetres into the thick ice, so each step felt precarious yet painfully important. 

When the fifth member of our 6 person rope team took a heart-stopping tumble down rough rock and ice, Eileen and I both dropped to arrest the fall and felt the full weight of a climber (and pack) strain against the rope and our own tenuous grip on the ice.

It was an incident that shook everyone in the group— thankfully Doug wasn’t injured beyond a few cuts, but we all redoubled efforts to keep both feet dug into the ice. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

By 4.30, after crossing several large crevasses and a massive sea of ice, we topped out on the LeConte Glacier and enjoyed a quick break before continuing unroped down the opposite snow slope. The route soon transitioned to unpleasant loose rock, but an exhilarating glissade onto the South Cascade Glacier managed to offer a much-needed boost.

Although we’d set our sights on Sentinel for today, there simply weren’t enough hours in the day— as it was, we hardly made it to camp before dark. But how could we complain with views like these from the glacier?!

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
South Cascade Glacier looking onto Lizard Pass
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
View from the South Cascade Glacier
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Crossing to the South Cascade Glacier

The final stretch of the day was far and away the worst terrain, a cliff of endless scree and talus descending Lizard Pass that was only tolerable because of the insane panorama that had just emerged over the ridge. 

Stretched before us was White Rock Lakes and a dozen prominent peaks, all framing the imposing snowy face of Dome Peak, another of our climbing objectives for the trip (and really the only one we managed to accomplish).

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
White Rock Lakes
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Descending to White Rock Lakes
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Approaching camp at White Rock Lakes

By some miracle, I arrived to the base of the rock slope in a single piece and made it across the final snow slope without incident, although I’ll admit morale was suffering. All it took to improve matters, though, was one look at our campsite for the night. 

Views like these practically repel negativity, and soon I had forgotten the agony of the evening and was running around taking photos like my usual non-traumatised self. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Dome Alpenglow

Day 6: White Rock Lakes to Dana-Dome Saddle

Departing our gorgeous campsite at the “early” hour of 7.30am, we spent the first part of the morning traversing through thick heather and bushwhacking our way towards a gully gushing with glacier water, which we hoped would bring us to the base of the Dana Glacier and eventually up to Spire Point. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Looking out at Dome Peak
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

The constant scratching and scraping of shrubs and overgrown trees on my sunburnt legs was bad enough, but worse still was the trail being entirely obscured by low brush— it was impossible to see your footing, which is how I ended up sticking my leg through a gap in the rocks and, still trapped up to my shin in granite, falling backwards onto my pack like an overturned beetle. 

Had dad not been just in front of me, it easily would have taken me 20min to free my leg from between the rocks, but thankfully I had assistance— and more thankfully still, I hadn’t broken my leg. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Approaching the Dana Glacier on heather
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ascending towards the Dana Glacier
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Scrambling towards the Dana Glacier on marbled benches

After scaling a slick waterfall and crossing an endless sea of scrambly rock benches (a welcome change from the usual scree mess), we finally topped out and geared up to transition onto the glacier. 

We’d spared ourselves a good deal of snow climbing by ascending the rocks, so it took precious little time to blaze a path all the way up to the snow arete that appeared to connect with the east face of Spire Point. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

In reality, a hulking snow moat separated us from any reasonable rock route to the summit and, after some poking around, we came to the unpleasant conclusion that there wasn’t time to drop all the way back to the blue ice and wrap around via an alternate route— once again, we were foiled by the conditions and forced to retreat. 

There was, however, a major consolation to our failed summit attempt— we did manage to climb onto the rocky ridge below Spire Point and enjoy sweeping views of everything from Glacier and Rainier to nearby Dome Peak and Cub Lake.

It may not have been the summit, but it was a pretty stellar lunch spot!

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
View of Glacier Peak from Spire Col
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Lunch spot near Spire Point

After retracing our steps down the glacier and reconnecting with Doug, who’d (perhaps wisely) opted to sit Spire Point out, we roped together again for the long journey to the Dana-Dome Saddle. 

The first section of the traverse wove tightly through a series of crevasses and then spat us onto a lengthy rock rib that ran all the way up to the glacier above on a relatively steady scramble. 

No sooner had we reached the snow and began to reassemble into our lengthy rope team than Eileen realised she’d left her harness some several hundred feet behind at the start of the scramble. 

Amidst considerable collective groaning, Kellie volunteered to retrieve it at hyper-speed, a favour for which she requested a free ticket to South America to visit me in the coming year— but for which she was instead awarded a chicken salad and two gluten free cookies from Eileen’s pack. Although a talented climber, her negotiation skills require serious work. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ascending the Dana Glacier in icy conditions
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Approaching the Dana-Dome Saddle

Finally setting off, I was offered the opportunity to lead up the Dana Glacier for the sake of additional experience. Very wisely, as it turns out, I instead volunteered myself to bring up the rear and clean— removing all the pickets and ice screws that dad ended up placing as protective and then carrying them uncomfortably up the snow for the next 2.5hrs. 

As much of a slog as it might have been, I was appreciative for the skill development and largely compensated by the stupendous views back onto Lizard Pass, which we’d descended the previous day, and Sentinel/Old Guard, which we’d failed to ascend the day before that. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

Indeed, the ultimate prize was our camp at the Dana-Dome Saddle. The prospect of camping on ice was originally unappealing (although I was somewhat reassured by having woken up the previous night in a fever sweat and sleeping the remaining hours with 70% of my body removed from my oven of a sleeping bag), the view was an easy sell. 

Glacier Peak dominated the horizon, but dozens of other peaks provided ample intrigue, and I honestly couldn’t say whether White Rocks or our isolated perch on the snow was more spectacular. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Camped at the Dana-Dome Saddle
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Smoky sunset over Glacier Peak

Day 7: Dana-Dome Saddle to Cub Lake via Dome Peak

By morning, all the beautiful views were gone, entirely clouded by a heavy layer of smoke  that had woken me up coughing countless times in the night and that hung thick in the air all day. 

Unfortunately, this also coincided with our last summit attempt— Dome Peak. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

Eager to climb at least one of the peaks we’d originally set out to, we all blazed out of camp around 7.30am and, after a brief rock scramble, spent the remainder of the morning ascending the Dome Glacier as a rope team. 

The route wasn’t particularly harrowing, nor was our smokey view all that remarkable, so we made quick work of the ascent and soon found ourselves clawing up a dirty slope riddled with loose rocks to gain the ridge. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Eileen donning her harness on the Dome Glacier

Here, we dropped packs for the remaining scramble to the summit, which still featured plenty of loose rock but markedly less dirt. 

Kellie and I flew up the granite boulders and all the way across to the actual summit block before realising that Todd, who’d turned back halfway up the rock, had all the gear. She raced to collect it and watched dad, Eileen, and Doug ascend to our breezy spot on the ridge. 

Using a hand line, we all piled onto the summit for a rather underwhelming view from what should have been an unbeatable vantage point over the Cascades. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

In the meantime, dad had also zipped out from the ridgeline along the snow to assess a possible route onto the Chickamin Glacier. He returned not long after with the unfortunate news that there was a massive bergschrund barring our path and absolutely no safe way to get around it that he could see. This meant ‘bailing out’ along the traditional Ptarmigan exit route onto Bacheler and Downey Creeks. 

After retracing our steps back to the previous night’s camp at the Dana-Dome Saddle, we set out on what would be the longest and most painful downward traverse of the trip. Constantly transitioning from steep, thin snow to steep, loose rocks, there wasn’t a single moment where I felt stable. 

In an effort to avoid a painful fall on a particularly steep snow patch, I opted to glissade, only to emerge with a raw ice burn that covered the entire right side of my bum and which burned with an almost unbearable intensity, unaided by several tumbles onto loose rocks, until Eileen and Kellie gave me painkillers and bandaged the hell out of my backside. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Finally on a trail towards the pass!

Not a moment too soon, the terrain began to improve. First we were on rock slabs through a series of waterfalls, then there was an actual route through the rocks marked by cairns, and finally a distinct trail cut into the heather ascending to Iswoot Pass. 

From here, we could see the heather trail continue for hundreds of feet, all the way down to Cub Lake. We spent the next couple hours descending the steep and often flooded heather trail, finally arriving at the lake just after 7pm. It had been a massive day on the Ptarmigan, but what’s new. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Departing our camp at Cub Lake

Day 8: Cub Lake to Downey Creek Forest Camp via Bachelor Creek

The goal for our penultimate day of the trip was to get as far along the Downey Creek Trail as possible. 

This involved two major challenges: navigating through Bachelor Creek, a purportedly awful stretch of unmaintained trail that had been abandoned for the better part of 40 years (and that Eileen remembered as being nearly impassible), and then making our way along the Downey Creek trail that was officially closed due to a recent forest fire, the extent of which was unknown. 

Anticipating a long day of agony, we left Cub Lake promptly in the morning and began our steep ascent out of the basin. Both the climb up to the ridge and down the opposite side went far better than anticipated, and by the time we arrived at Bachelor Flats, the start of the allegedly disastrous trail, we were in fairly high spirits. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Walking through flower fields en route to Bachelor Creek

Throughout the course of the day, the Bachelor Creek Trail devolved into worse and worse conditions, but I still never felt like it was as brutal as the previous day’s drop from the Dana-Dome Saddle— at least there was zero scree to contend with! 

What we had instead was a wildly overgrown forest trail littered with downed trees, plagued by mosquitos, and peppered with slide alder. Since the last time dad and Eileen had been through the area, though, someone had cut a rough path and flagged with pink ribbon every several dozen feet, so it was exponentially better than expected.

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

By early afternoon, we finally burst out to the Bachelor/Downey Creek junction and enjoyed a break in the shade. We’d survived the worst part of our exit and without any major issues, cause for major celebration. 

The final stretch of our hike for the day was along a well-maintained stretch of the Downey Creek trail, possibly the best section of trail walking we’d done in the last week and a half. When we did arrive to an informal camp alongside the creek and collapse into the pine needles, it was with great satisfaction, knowing that the trailhead was only 4mi away. 

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Camp near Downey Creek

Day 9: Forest Camp to Downey Creek TH

Finally, we were about to escape the adventure/nightmare of the Ptarmigan Traverse, only a few miles from the trailhead where our rides (my stepbrother Derek and Kellie’s husband Rolf) were meeting us at 2pm.

Thankfully, the remainder of the Downey Creek Trail, although markedly worse than the first section, still wasn’t awful. The fire had brought trees and brush across the trail, but only in the final mile. Prior to that, our only agony was a mess of stinging nettles and countless spiderwebs (filled with spiders) hanging across our path. 

We arrived to the trailhead by 12.30pm and ran directly into the creek, and not long after were met by our drivers. With river-soaked legs and cold beers in hand, the events of the trip slowly began to seem amusing rather than traumatic, and soon we were all smiling at what had truly been an epic trip.

Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering
Ptarmigan Traverse North Cascades Glacier Peak mountaineering

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CLIMBING MT RAINIER VIA CAMP SCHURMAN & THE EMMONS GLACIER

SAHALE ARM TO BOSTON BASIN VIA MT BUCKNER & SAHALE PEAK

FROZEN LARCH HIKE: INGALLS LAKE & SOUTH INGALLS PEAK

CHELAN SUMMIT TRAIL (DAYS 1 & 2): PRINCE CREEK TO STAR LAKE VIA STAR & COURTNEY PEAK

MAPLE PASS LOOP & BLACK PEAK (DAYS 2 & 3): LEWIS LAKE TO WING LAKE & BLACK PEAK SUMMIT

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brooke beyond

Hey, I'm Brooke and I'm obsessed with getting off the beaten path, exploring backcountry gems & travelling beyond the ordinary! I left Australia 5 years ago after finishing a PhD in Biomechanics & have been travelling the world full-time ever since (joined by my life/climbing partner, James). Whether it’s road-tripping through Mexico, climbing alpine peaks in the Andes, scuba diving in the Red Sea, or tackling epic via ferrata in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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The Comments

  • Keith Langenwalter
    25 June 2022

    What a difference from when I did the Ptarmigan over July 4th of 2020. We had similar weather to start (along with the 3.5 mile road-hike), and we didn’t really get a good clear day until waking up at White Rock Lakes. But we put our crampons on at Cascade Pass, and didn’t take them off again until past Cub Lakes. I think there was a short section of dirt on the traverse from White Rocks to the Dana Glacier. Some of the descents seemed easier with snow (specifically from Spider-Formidable and from Lizard Pass down to White Rock Lakes), but I was looking forward to some of the paths through heather slopes. I’d like to go back and do it again with less snow, although time it right to hit the alternate exit via the Hanging Gardens.

    Reply
    • brooke brisbine
      Keith Langenwalter
      16 November 2023

      Hi Keith, thanks so much for reading! Your conditions sound a bit more favourable than ours– we would have LOVED more snow– but I suppose it too comes with its own challenges. That fickle mountain weather, you never really know what the season is going to be like!

      Happy trails 🙂
      xx bb

      Reply
  • Peter Kelemen
    11 April 2022

    Hi, nice trip report though sounds like a bit of an epic based on your post, and Eileen’s Adventures. It’s good to know that the Bachelor/Downey route out is passable, despite the trail and road closures. If possible, I would like to know more about the (non) route from Dome Col down onto the Chickamin Glacier. It sounds like part of the issue was the lack of snow in August. Do you or your companions think this would be passable in the early season (May, June)? We would have crampons, ice axes, rope, a tiny amount of rock gear … and skis but that is irrelevant, except that, yes, we will have heavy packs.

    Reply
    • brooke
      Peter Kelemen
      18 May 2022

      Hi Peter, thanks for reading!

      It certainly ended up being more epic than anyone could have anticipated (isn’t that always the way). We fully intended to descend on the Chickamin and my dad (our trip leader, Jim Brisbine) recalls that he’s never seen the glacier and snowpack so stripped back– that early-season heatwave last year completely ravaged the Cascades and we were constantly surprised by the conditions. In previous years, that route should have been entirely passable, but it’s worth noting that the glaciers may not have fully recovered in a single season, so who knows what things look like at the moment (early season being a safer bet).

      My best advice would be to send my dad an email directly, he’s a geologist and far more familiar with the route (having completed it multiple times), so I’d trust his advice over my own: https://trailcatjim.com/contact-trailcatjim/

      Hope that helps!
      xx bb

      Reply
  • Lefkos Christodoulides
    18 September 2021

    Your Ptarmigan traverse account took me back to the same route and struggles 40 years ago with Pete Schoening and Otto Trott. Pete Athas turned back with an injured Fred Beckey (icefall off Formidable)

    Reply
    • brooke brisbine
      Lefkos Christodoulides
      26 October 2021

      It sounds like this route has been dishing out surprising conditions and route challenges since the beginning of time! My dad has his own story of setting out on a disastrous Ptarmigan Traverse (probably around the same time, 40yrs ago) with an experienced climber and his wife (very much not a climber) because they’d read somewhere that this was little more than a backpacking trip.

      I was expecting a mountaineering trip, and still I was constantly amazed at how difficult even “straightforward” glaciers were to navigate– I can’t imagine signing up for a backpacking trip and instead finding THIS.

      Thanks for sharing your experience!

      Reply
  • Bob Harn
    12 September 2021

    Hi Brooke
    We did the Ptarmigan Traverse in 1984. my wife and I were 30 then. I was fortunate to work with the son of Ralph (Ray) Clough, one of the original Ptarmigan party. I talked to Ray Clough the day before we did our trip.
    From what I remember of my conversation, they were teenagers and were dropped off at Downey at Sulphuric creek by their mother. I think they approached Dome via Sulphur creek. From Dome they did the route roughly in reverse from the way it is done now. They did first ascents of Leconte, Spider, Formidable, Magic, Johannesburg, Boston and the north face of Buckner. They did second ascents of Dome, Spire pt, and Sentinal. When they finished Buckner they descended to Agnes creek and from there not sure.
    The route now is much more difficult than 1984 due to lack of snow cover. The red ledge then was a perhaps class 2 but mostly a walk. We did Spider by a steep snow finger on the south which does not exist any more. We put a cairn on what I think is now called Hacklah peak. The traverse from The S-F col was mostly on glacier require ropes but not difficult. The rest of the trip was not difficult. We camped 6 nights, at Kool- aid lakes, on a ridge overlooking formidable, the Sentinal col, White rock lakes and 2 nights at Cub lake hoping to do Dome but the weather didn’t permit. We climbed Spider, Leconte , old Guard, and Spire pt.
    I really enjoyed your photos
    Bob

    Reply
    • brooke brisbine
      Bob Harn
      26 October 2021

      Hi Bob, thanks so much for sharing your experience!

      This route is a piece of local history, and the fact that you were able to do it with some planning input from the original team is beyond impressive– we spent our whole trip reading snippets of the original traverse (constantly amazed at how many summits they reached in the time it took us to barely survive the route!) and trying to imagine how much harder it would have been without our modern comforts (we read one account that they were all sharing one ice axe between them?!).

      We’d also done Buckner a few weeks prior, and it took us a solid 12hrs from Sahale Glacier Camp, so again, AMAZED at their summit record. The fact that the conditions have deteriorated in recent years is my only consolation.

      Happy trails!

      Reply

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hi, I’m brooke!

I'm obsessed with getting off the beaten path, exploring backcountry gems & travelling beyond the ordinary! I left Australia 5 years ago after finishing a PhD in Biomechanics & have been travelling the world full-time ever since (now joined by my life/climbing partner, James). I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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@brookebeyond_
brooke ✨travel & mountain gal

@brookebeyond_

  • it’s another “if it wasn’t so stupid beautiful, I’d never set foot in this country again because it’s bleeding me dry” kinda summer 🇨🇭🌸☀️🏔️🦋✨

(hands up if you feel personally victimised by Swiss prices but you can’t stay away because MOUNTAINS 😭😭)
  • magical summer sunsets in Switzerland ✨
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.
.
#swissalps #stoosridge #swisssummer #sunset
  • BEST EASY HIKES IN SWITZERLAND 🇨🇭❤️‍🩹

just 2 months after knee surgery, I found myself travelling through Switzerland— in search of easy hikes that were actually accessible post-op 🩼 

luckily, there’s hardly a better place in the world for easy hiking than the Swiss Alps!!

so whether you’re recovering from an injury, hiking with older parents/young children, or just a non-hiker who loves an epic view, this short list of HIGH VALUE viewpoints & hikes offer the most spectacular mountain scenery with minimal challenge

💸 BUDGET TIP: buy the Swiss Half Fare Card to save 50% all these gondolas and trains, which can seriously add up!!

- Stoos Ridge: take the Stoosbahn to the little village of Stoos + walk about 15min to the chairlift that can take you all the way up to Fronalpstock— you can walk as little or as much as you want up here, the views are amazing right away
- Riffelsee: take the Gornergrat Railway from Zermatt to Riffelsee + hike 20min to the 2 beautiful alpine lakes (then either hike 1hr up to Gornergrat or catch the train)
- Saxer Lücke: catch a gondola + hike 1hr (2.5km, 250m gain) to this amazing viewpoint— hardest on this list and not suitable for those with extremely limited mobility 
- Kleine Scheidegg: take the train or the gondola from Grindelwald + hike about 20min uphill to the lake
- Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg, take the gondola to Jungfraujoch + walk around the viewing platforms
- Trockener Steg: take the gondola from Zermatt + walk 10min from the top of the cable car to the lake for incredible Matterhorn views
- Oeschinensee: 20min walk from the top of the Kandersteg cable car to the lake (bus also available), then you can walk as little or as much as you want around the lake or on the famous Panorama Trail
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#easyhikes #swissalps #matterhorn #jungfraujoch #oeschinensee #stoos #switzerland
  • This is my 2nd summer back in Zermatt to climb the Matterhorn— and my 2nd summer NOT climbing the Matterhorn 😑

In 2023, a wicked snow storm blew through the night before my planned ascent and grounded all climbing parties… and then I had knee surgery less than 2 months before our repeat trip to Zermatt this year. I won’t lie, it’s been extremely disappointing to spend nearly 2 weeks in one of the most expensive places in the world, and STILL not do the thing I came here to do 😅

But alas, here we are in Zermatt again! (and apparently not for the last time)

Even though we are slowly going bankrupt, it’s a gorgeous place to be in the summer with no shortage of amazing trails!

Can’t wait to share some of what we’ve been up to— my first little hikes since surgery 🤩
  • we’ve spent the last several weeks in Switzerland and, in many ways, I couldn’t have chosen a better destination for post-knee-surgery recovery— where else in the world can you get views like THIS with 1hr of easy hiking?!

I’m not sure I’ll ever truly prefer the accessibility of the Alps to true backcountry… but there’s no denying that I couldn’t be outside any other way right now and it’s given me a whole new appreciation for the hundreds of gondolas, funiculars, and trains that connect non-hikers or mobility-impaired enthusiasts like myself to otherwise unreachable heights!

I’m enormously grateful for the opportunity to rehab my knee under legendary peaks rather than fluorescent indoor lights, so THANK YOU Switzerland 😍
  • NICE MINI GUIDE 🇫🇷🌊✨

some of our favourite experiences from last month in this charming town on the French Riviera!

WHAT TO DO
☕️ stroll through Old Town: beautiful alleyways with charming shops + bars (pass by Palais du Justice, Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate de Nice, Église Sainte Rita for photos)
🏖️ Ruhl Plage: picturesque beach club with striped umbrellas + chairs (but the free beach immediately beside it works just as well for a quick dip!!)
🪴 Jardin Albert 1er: leafy park separating central Nice from the Old Town
📸 Colline du Château: elevated park on the headland with excellent views of the coastline
🚃 day trip to Eze + Monaco: both can be done in a single day with public transport or inexpensive Ubers!

WHERE TO EAT/DRINK
🧀 La Cave du Fromager: fondue/cheese restaurant located in a wine cellar in Old Nice, beautiful and amazing food!
🦆 La Route du Miam: intimate 6-table restaurant serving legendary duck— the menu is bascially 3 options, but the duck-fat potatoes are mind-blowing, the wine selection is excellent, and the owners are impossibly charismatic (expect to leave with multiple kisses)
🍨 Finoccio: local-fave ice creamery with endless flavours
☕️ La Claque: small cafe with excellent coffee, matcha, kombucha etc
🍷 La Treille Bar à Vin: natural wine + small plates with charming outdoor seating
🍸 Soho: trendy bar with a good value happy hour 5-8pm
  • paris on (fuji)film 🇫🇷🥐🧀✨

we’d originally planned to spend June climbing in the French + Swiss Alps… but after I had knee surgery at the end of April, we had to pivot to something a little more recovery-friendly.

so we changed our flights from Geneva to Paris and instead spent a couple weeks sipping cocktails, making croissants, wandering through charming galleries, catching up with some of our favourite humans, and racking up steps around the city in an effort to get me hiking-capable asap. 

not exactly the summits we’d planned, but time well-spent all the same 💛 #fujifilmx100vi
  • 2-WEEK KYUSHU ITINERARY ✨

the perfect active road trip for exploring Japan’s 3rd largest island!

Days 1-2: Fukuoka
-  pick up hire car
-  Momochi district
-  Nanzo-in reclining Buddha
-  Gion district temples
-  Fukuoka yatai
-  Itoshima coast + Keya No Oto hike

Days 3-4: Beppu
-  Jigoku Seven Hells
-  Mt Tsurumi or Mt Yufu hike
-  Himeji-jo Castle
-  stay at Kunisakisou & make use of private onsen

Days 5-6: Aso
- Mt Aso National Park (countless amazing hikes!)
- best restaurants: 阿蘇内牧カレー屋 BATH (katsu curry) + Meshi no Yamaichi (beef bowls with endless toppings)
- best onsen (tattoos ok for private bathing): Yunoyado Irifune + 阿蘇内牧音泉 湯楽

Day 7: Kumamoto
- Takachiho Gorge
- GorogoTaki Waterfall

Days 8-10: Kirishima
-  Mt Karakunidake (10km hike)
-  Mt Kaimondake (7km hike)
-  Sakurajima Nagisa Foot Bath (free 100m baths with view of volcano) + Sakurajima active volcano

Days 11-13: Yakushima (car ferry to island)
-  Anbo Trail to Jomon Sugi
-  Mt Miyanoura scramble
-  Seibu Rindo Forest Path scenic drive

Day 14: return to Fukuoka
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#fukuoka #kyushu #japan #roadtrip #beppu
#onsen #takachiho
  • The famous bowing deer of Nara 🦌✨

The ancient city of Nara is home to around 1,300 sacred deer (believed to be messengers to the gods!) roaming freely around the parks and temples. They are SO cute & friendly, and feeding the deer in Nara was a top highlight of my 6 weeks in Japan 🥹

Tips for visiting the deer:
🦌 head to Nara Park & you’ll find deer everywhere near Todaiji Temple, Kasuga Taisha & Kofukuji. Look for shikadamari (deer meeting spots) & approach respectfully!
🍘 buy shika senbei (deer crackers) for ~¥200 from local vendors. Hold one up, bow & watch the deer bow back!
🚃 get here in ~45min from Kyoto or Osaka by train
🏯 this is a popular day trip, but I definitely recommend staying overnight in a traditional ryokan & eating at some of the amazing local restaurants
⏱️ the park is prettiest early in the morning or around sunset when it’s quieter, the light is soft & the deer are more relaxed
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#nara #naradeer #japan #japantravel #traveljapan #wheninjapan
follow @brookebeyond_

travel beyond the ordinary

Explore my travel guides, custom itineraries & blog posts with an interactive world map ✨

all destinations

  • it’s another “if it wasn’t so stupid beautiful, I’d never set foot in this country again because it’s bleeding me dry” kinda summer 🇨🇭🌸☀️🏔️🦋✨

(hands up if you feel personally victimised by Swiss prices but you can’t stay away because MOUNTAINS 😭😭)
  • magical summer sunsets in Switzerland ✨
.
.
.
.
#swissalps #stoosridge #swisssummer #sunset
  • BEST EASY HIKES IN SWITZERLAND 🇨🇭❤️‍🩹

just 2 months after knee surgery, I found myself travelling through Switzerland— in search of easy hikes that were actually accessible post-op 🩼 

luckily, there’s hardly a better place in the world for easy hiking than the Swiss Alps!!

so whether you’re recovering from an injury, hiking with older parents/young children, or just a non-hiker who loves an epic view, this short list of HIGH VALUE viewpoints & hikes offer the most spectacular mountain scenery with minimal challenge

💸 BUDGET TIP: buy the Swiss Half Fare Card to save 50% all these gondolas and trains, which can seriously add up!!

- Stoos Ridge: take the Stoosbahn to the little village of Stoos + walk about 15min to the chairlift that can take you all the way up to Fronalpstock— you can walk as little or as much as you want up here, the views are amazing right away
- Riffelsee: take the Gornergrat Railway from Zermatt to Riffelsee + hike 20min to the 2 beautiful alpine lakes (then either hike 1hr up to Gornergrat or catch the train)
- Saxer Lücke: catch a gondola + hike 1hr (2.5km, 250m gain) to this amazing viewpoint— hardest on this list and not suitable for those with extremely limited mobility 
- Kleine Scheidegg: take the train or the gondola from Grindelwald + hike about 20min uphill to the lake
- Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg, take the gondola to Jungfraujoch + walk around the viewing platforms
- Trockener Steg: take the gondola from Zermatt + walk 10min from the top of the cable car to the lake for incredible Matterhorn views
- Oeschinensee: 20min walk from the top of the Kandersteg cable car to the lake (bus also available), then you can walk as little or as much as you want around the lake or on the famous Panorama Trail
.
.
.
.
.
#easyhikes #swissalps #matterhorn #jungfraujoch #oeschinensee #stoos #switzerland
  • This is my 2nd summer back in Zermatt to climb the Matterhorn— and my 2nd summer NOT climbing the Matterhorn 😑

In 2023, a wicked snow storm blew through the night before my planned ascent and grounded all climbing parties… and then I had knee surgery less than 2 months before our repeat trip to Zermatt this year. I won’t lie, it’s been extremely disappointing to spend nearly 2 weeks in one of the most expensive places in the world, and STILL not do the thing I came here to do 😅

But alas, here we are in Zermatt again! (and apparently not for the last time)

Even though we are slowly going bankrupt, it’s a gorgeous place to be in the summer with no shortage of amazing trails!

Can’t wait to share some of what we’ve been up to— my first little hikes since surgery 🤩
  • we’ve spent the last several weeks in Switzerland and, in many ways, I couldn’t have chosen a better destination for post-knee-surgery recovery— where else in the world can you get views like THIS with 1hr of easy hiking?!

I’m not sure I’ll ever truly prefer the accessibility of the Alps to true backcountry… but there’s no denying that I couldn’t be outside any other way right now and it’s given me a whole new appreciation for the hundreds of gondolas, funiculars, and trains that connect non-hikers or mobility-impaired enthusiasts like myself to otherwise unreachable heights!

I’m enormously grateful for the opportunity to rehab my knee under legendary peaks rather than fluorescent indoor lights, so THANK YOU Switzerland 😍
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
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it’s another “if it wasn’t so stupid beautiful, I’d never set foot in this country again because it’s bleeding me dry” kinda summer 🇨🇭🌸☀️🏔️🦋✨ (hands up if you feel personally victimised by Swiss prices but you can’t stay away because MOUNTAINS 😭😭)
2 days ago
View on Instagram |
1/5
magical summer sunsets in Switzerland ✨
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.
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.
#swissalps #stoosridge #swisssummer #sunset
magical summer sunsets in Switzerland ✨
.
.
.
.
#swissalps #stoosridge #swisssummer #sunset
magical summer sunsets in Switzerland ✨
.
.
.
.
#swissalps #stoosridge #swisssummer #sunset
magical summer sunsets in Switzerland ✨
.
.
.
.
#swissalps #stoosridge #swisssummer #sunset
magical summer sunsets in Switzerland ✨
.
.
.
.
#swissalps #stoosridge #swisssummer #sunset
magical summer sunsets in Switzerland ✨
.
.
.
.
#swissalps #stoosridge #swisssummer #sunset
magical summer sunsets in Switzerland ✨
.
.
.
.
#swissalps #stoosridge #swisssummer #sunset
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
magical summer sunsets in Switzerland ✨ . . . . #swissalps #stoosridge #swisssummer #sunset
4 days ago
View on Instagram |
2/5
BEST EASY HIKES IN SWITZERLAND 🇨🇭❤️‍🩹

just 2 months after knee surgery, I found myself travelling through Switzerland— in search of easy hikes that were actually accessible post-op 🩼 

luckily, there’s hardly a better place in the world for easy hiking than the Swiss Alps!!

so whether you’re recovering from an injury, hiking with older parents/young children, or just a non-hiker who loves an epic view, this short list of HIGH VALUE viewpoints & hikes offer the most spectacular mountain scenery with minimal challenge

💸 BUDGET TIP: buy the Swiss Half Fare Card to save 50% all these gondolas and trains, which can seriously add up!!

- Stoos Ridge: take the Stoosbahn to the little village of Stoos + walk about 15min to the chairlift that can take you all the way up to Fronalpstock— you can walk as little or as much as you want up here, the views are amazing right away
- Riffelsee: take the Gornergrat Railway from Zermatt to Riffelsee + hike 20min to the 2 beautiful alpine lakes (then either hike 1hr up to Gornergrat or catch the train)
- Saxer Lücke: catch a gondola + hike 1hr (2.5km, 250m gain) to this amazing viewpoint— hardest on this list and not suitable for those with extremely limited mobility 
- Kleine Scheidegg: take the train or the gondola from Grindelwald + hike about 20min uphill to the lake
- Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg, take the gondola to Jungfraujoch + walk around the viewing platforms
- Trockener Steg: take the gondola from Zermatt + walk 10min from the top of the cable car to the lake for incredible Matterhorn views
- Oeschinensee: 20min walk from the top of the Kandersteg cable car to the lake (bus also available), then you can walk as little or as much as you want around the lake or on the famous Panorama Trail
.
.
.
.
.
#easyhikes #swissalps #matterhorn #jungfraujoch #oeschinensee #stoos #switzerland
BEST EASY HIKES IN SWITZERLAND 🇨🇭❤️‍🩹

just 2 months after knee surgery, I found myself travelling through Switzerland— in search of easy hikes that were actually accessible post-op 🩼 

luckily, there’s hardly a better place in the world for easy hiking than the Swiss Alps!!

so whether you’re recovering from an injury, hiking with older parents/young children, or just a non-hiker who loves an epic view, this short list of HIGH VALUE viewpoints & hikes offer the most spectacular mountain scenery with minimal challenge

💸 BUDGET TIP: buy the Swiss Half Fare Card to save 50% all these gondolas and trains, which can seriously add up!!

- Stoos Ridge: take the Stoosbahn to the little village of Stoos + walk about 15min to the chairlift that can take you all the way up to Fronalpstock— you can walk as little or as much as you want up here, the views are amazing right away
- Riffelsee: take the Gornergrat Railway from Zermatt to Riffelsee + hike 20min to the 2 beautiful alpine lakes (then either hike 1hr up to Gornergrat or catch the train)
- Saxer Lücke: catch a gondola + hike 1hr (2.5km, 250m gain) to this amazing viewpoint— hardest on this list and not suitable for those with extremely limited mobility 
- Kleine Scheidegg: take the train or the gondola from Grindelwald + hike about 20min uphill to the lake
- Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg, take the gondola to Jungfraujoch + walk around the viewing platforms
- Trockener Steg: take the gondola from Zermatt + walk 10min from the top of the cable car to the lake for incredible Matterhorn views
- Oeschinensee: 20min walk from the top of the Kandersteg cable car to the lake (bus also available), then you can walk as little or as much as you want around the lake or on the famous Panorama Trail
.
.
.
.
.
#easyhikes #swissalps #matterhorn #jungfraujoch #oeschinensee #stoos #switzerland
BEST EASY HIKES IN SWITZERLAND 🇨🇭❤️‍🩹

just 2 months after knee surgery, I found myself travelling through Switzerland— in search of easy hikes that were actually accessible post-op 🩼 

luckily, there’s hardly a better place in the world for easy hiking than the Swiss Alps!!

so whether you’re recovering from an injury, hiking with older parents/young children, or just a non-hiker who loves an epic view, this short list of HIGH VALUE viewpoints & hikes offer the most spectacular mountain scenery with minimal challenge

💸 BUDGET TIP: buy the Swiss Half Fare Card to save 50% all these gondolas and trains, which can seriously add up!!

- Stoos Ridge: take the Stoosbahn to the little village of Stoos + walk about 15min to the chairlift that can take you all the way up to Fronalpstock— you can walk as little or as much as you want up here, the views are amazing right away
- Riffelsee: take the Gornergrat Railway from Zermatt to Riffelsee + hike 20min to the 2 beautiful alpine lakes (then either hike 1hr up to Gornergrat or catch the train)
- Saxer Lücke: catch a gondola + hike 1hr (2.5km, 250m gain) to this amazing viewpoint— hardest on this list and not suitable for those with extremely limited mobility 
- Kleine Scheidegg: take the train or the gondola from Grindelwald + hike about 20min uphill to the lake
- Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg, take the gondola to Jungfraujoch + walk around the viewing platforms
- Trockener Steg: take the gondola from Zermatt + walk 10min from the top of the cable car to the lake for incredible Matterhorn views
- Oeschinensee: 20min walk from the top of the Kandersteg cable car to the lake (bus also available), then you can walk as little or as much as you want around the lake or on the famous Panorama Trail
.
.
.
.
.
#easyhikes #swissalps #matterhorn #jungfraujoch #oeschinensee #stoos #switzerland
BEST EASY HIKES IN SWITZERLAND 🇨🇭❤️‍🩹

just 2 months after knee surgery, I found myself travelling through Switzerland— in search of easy hikes that were actually accessible post-op 🩼 

luckily, there’s hardly a better place in the world for easy hiking than the Swiss Alps!!

so whether you’re recovering from an injury, hiking with older parents/young children, or just a non-hiker who loves an epic view, this short list of HIGH VALUE viewpoints & hikes offer the most spectacular mountain scenery with minimal challenge

💸 BUDGET TIP: buy the Swiss Half Fare Card to save 50% all these gondolas and trains, which can seriously add up!!

- Stoos Ridge: take the Stoosbahn to the little village of Stoos + walk about 15min to the chairlift that can take you all the way up to Fronalpstock— you can walk as little or as much as you want up here, the views are amazing right away
- Riffelsee: take the Gornergrat Railway from Zermatt to Riffelsee + hike 20min to the 2 beautiful alpine lakes (then either hike 1hr up to Gornergrat or catch the train)
- Saxer Lücke: catch a gondola + hike 1hr (2.5km, 250m gain) to this amazing viewpoint— hardest on this list and not suitable for those with extremely limited mobility 
- Kleine Scheidegg: take the train or the gondola from Grindelwald + hike about 20min uphill to the lake
- Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg, take the gondola to Jungfraujoch + walk around the viewing platforms
- Trockener Steg: take the gondola from Zermatt + walk 10min from the top of the cable car to the lake for incredible Matterhorn views
- Oeschinensee: 20min walk from the top of the Kandersteg cable car to the lake (bus also available), then you can walk as little or as much as you want around the lake or on the famous Panorama Trail
.
.
.
.
.
#easyhikes #swissalps #matterhorn #jungfraujoch #oeschinensee #stoos #switzerland
BEST EASY HIKES IN SWITZERLAND 🇨🇭❤️‍🩹

just 2 months after knee surgery, I found myself travelling through Switzerland— in search of easy hikes that were actually accessible post-op 🩼 

luckily, there’s hardly a better place in the world for easy hiking than the Swiss Alps!!

so whether you’re recovering from an injury, hiking with older parents/young children, or just a non-hiker who loves an epic view, this short list of HIGH VALUE viewpoints & hikes offer the most spectacular mountain scenery with minimal challenge

💸 BUDGET TIP: buy the Swiss Half Fare Card to save 50% all these gondolas and trains, which can seriously add up!!

- Stoos Ridge: take the Stoosbahn to the little village of Stoos + walk about 15min to the chairlift that can take you all the way up to Fronalpstock— you can walk as little or as much as you want up here, the views are amazing right away
- Riffelsee: take the Gornergrat Railway from Zermatt to Riffelsee + hike 20min to the 2 beautiful alpine lakes (then either hike 1hr up to Gornergrat or catch the train)
- Saxer Lücke: catch a gondola + hike 1hr (2.5km, 250m gain) to this amazing viewpoint— hardest on this list and not suitable for those with extremely limited mobility 
- Kleine Scheidegg: take the train or the gondola from Grindelwald + hike about 20min uphill to the lake
- Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg, take the gondola to Jungfraujoch + walk around the viewing platforms
- Trockener Steg: take the gondola from Zermatt + walk 10min from the top of the cable car to the lake for incredible Matterhorn views
- Oeschinensee: 20min walk from the top of the Kandersteg cable car to the lake (bus also available), then you can walk as little or as much as you want around the lake or on the famous Panorama Trail
.
.
.
.
.
#easyhikes #swissalps #matterhorn #jungfraujoch #oeschinensee #stoos #switzerland
BEST EASY HIKES IN SWITZERLAND 🇨🇭❤️‍🩹

just 2 months after knee surgery, I found myself travelling through Switzerland— in search of easy hikes that were actually accessible post-op 🩼 

luckily, there’s hardly a better place in the world for easy hiking than the Swiss Alps!!

so whether you’re recovering from an injury, hiking with older parents/young children, or just a non-hiker who loves an epic view, this short list of HIGH VALUE viewpoints & hikes offer the most spectacular mountain scenery with minimal challenge

💸 BUDGET TIP: buy the Swiss Half Fare Card to save 50% all these gondolas and trains, which can seriously add up!!

- Stoos Ridge: take the Stoosbahn to the little village of Stoos + walk about 15min to the chairlift that can take you all the way up to Fronalpstock— you can walk as little or as much as you want up here, the views are amazing right away
- Riffelsee: take the Gornergrat Railway from Zermatt to Riffelsee + hike 20min to the 2 beautiful alpine lakes (then either hike 1hr up to Gornergrat or catch the train)
- Saxer Lücke: catch a gondola + hike 1hr (2.5km, 250m gain) to this amazing viewpoint— hardest on this list and not suitable for those with extremely limited mobility 
- Kleine Scheidegg: take the train or the gondola from Grindelwald + hike about 20min uphill to the lake
- Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg, take the gondola to Jungfraujoch + walk around the viewing platforms
- Trockener Steg: take the gondola from Zermatt + walk 10min from the top of the cable car to the lake for incredible Matterhorn views
- Oeschinensee: 20min walk from the top of the Kandersteg cable car to the lake (bus also available), then you can walk as little or as much as you want around the lake or on the famous Panorama Trail
.
.
.
.
.
#easyhikes #swissalps #matterhorn #jungfraujoch #oeschinensee #stoos #switzerland
BEST EASY HIKES IN SWITZERLAND 🇨🇭❤️‍🩹

just 2 months after knee surgery, I found myself travelling through Switzerland— in search of easy hikes that were actually accessible post-op 🩼 

luckily, there’s hardly a better place in the world for easy hiking than the Swiss Alps!!

so whether you’re recovering from an injury, hiking with older parents/young children, or just a non-hiker who loves an epic view, this short list of HIGH VALUE viewpoints & hikes offer the most spectacular mountain scenery with minimal challenge

💸 BUDGET TIP: buy the Swiss Half Fare Card to save 50% all these gondolas and trains, which can seriously add up!!

- Stoos Ridge: take the Stoosbahn to the little village of Stoos + walk about 15min to the chairlift that can take you all the way up to Fronalpstock— you can walk as little or as much as you want up here, the views are amazing right away
- Riffelsee: take the Gornergrat Railway from Zermatt to Riffelsee + hike 20min to the 2 beautiful alpine lakes (then either hike 1hr up to Gornergrat or catch the train)
- Saxer Lücke: catch a gondola + hike 1hr (2.5km, 250m gain) to this amazing viewpoint— hardest on this list and not suitable for those with extremely limited mobility 
- Kleine Scheidegg: take the train or the gondola from Grindelwald + hike about 20min uphill to the lake
- Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg, take the gondola to Jungfraujoch + walk around the viewing platforms
- Trockener Steg: take the gondola from Zermatt + walk 10min from the top of the cable car to the lake for incredible Matterhorn views
- Oeschinensee: 20min walk from the top of the Kandersteg cable car to the lake (bus also available), then you can walk as little or as much as you want around the lake or on the famous Panorama Trail
.
.
.
.
.
#easyhikes #swissalps #matterhorn #jungfraujoch #oeschinensee #stoos #switzerland
BEST EASY HIKES IN SWITZERLAND 🇨🇭❤️‍🩹

just 2 months after knee surgery, I found myself travelling through Switzerland— in search of easy hikes that were actually accessible post-op 🩼 

luckily, there’s hardly a better place in the world for easy hiking than the Swiss Alps!!

so whether you’re recovering from an injury, hiking with older parents/young children, or just a non-hiker who loves an epic view, this short list of HIGH VALUE viewpoints & hikes offer the most spectacular mountain scenery with minimal challenge

💸 BUDGET TIP: buy the Swiss Half Fare Card to save 50% all these gondolas and trains, which can seriously add up!!

- Stoos Ridge: take the Stoosbahn to the little village of Stoos + walk about 15min to the chairlift that can take you all the way up to Fronalpstock— you can walk as little or as much as you want up here, the views are amazing right away
- Riffelsee: take the Gornergrat Railway from Zermatt to Riffelsee + hike 20min to the 2 beautiful alpine lakes (then either hike 1hr up to Gornergrat or catch the train)
- Saxer Lücke: catch a gondola + hike 1hr (2.5km, 250m gain) to this amazing viewpoint— hardest on this list and not suitable for those with extremely limited mobility 
- Kleine Scheidegg: take the train or the gondola from Grindelwald + hike about 20min uphill to the lake
- Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg, take the gondola to Jungfraujoch + walk around the viewing platforms
- Trockener Steg: take the gondola from Zermatt + walk 10min from the top of the cable car to the lake for incredible Matterhorn views
- Oeschinensee: 20min walk from the top of the Kandersteg cable car to the lake (bus also available), then you can walk as little or as much as you want around the lake or on the famous Panorama Trail
.
.
.
.
.
#easyhikes #swissalps #matterhorn #jungfraujoch #oeschinensee #stoos #switzerland
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
BEST EASY HIKES IN SWITZERLAND 🇨🇭❤️‍🩹 just 2 months after knee surgery, I found myself travelling through Switzerland— in search of easy hikes that were actually accessible post-op 🩼 luckily, there’s hardly a better place in the world for easy hiking than the Swiss Alps!! so whether you’re recovering from an injury, hiking with older parents/young children, or just a non-hiker who loves an epic view, this short list of HIGH VALUE viewpoints & hikes offer the most spectacular mountain scenery with minimal challenge 💸 BUDGET TIP: buy the Swiss Half Fare Card to save 50% all these gondolas and trains, which can seriously add up!! - Stoos Ridge: take the Stoosbahn to the little village of Stoos + walk about 15min to the chairlift that can take you all the way up to Fronalpstock— you can walk as little or as much as you want up here, the views are amazing right away - Riffelsee: take the Gornergrat Railway from Zermatt to Riffelsee + hike 20min to the 2 beautiful alpine lakes (then either hike 1hr up to Gornergrat or catch the train) - Saxer Lücke: catch a gondola + hike 1hr (2.5km, 250m gain) to this amazing viewpoint— hardest on this list and not suitable for those with extremely limited mobility - Kleine Scheidegg: take the train or the gondola from Grindelwald + hike about 20min uphill to the lake - Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg, take the gondola to Jungfraujoch + walk around the viewing platforms - Trockener Steg: take the gondola from Zermatt + walk 10min from the top of the cable car to the lake for incredible Matterhorn views - Oeschinensee: 20min walk from the top of the Kandersteg cable car to the lake (bus also available), then you can walk as little or as much as you want around the lake or on the famous Panorama Trail . . . . . #easyhikes #swissalps #matterhorn #jungfraujoch #oeschinensee #stoos #switzerland
6 days ago
View on Instagram |
3/5
This is my 2nd summer back in Zermatt to climb the Matterhorn— and my 2nd summer NOT climbing the Matterhorn 😑

In 2023, a wicked snow storm blew through the night before my planned ascent and grounded all climbing parties… and then I had knee surgery less than 2 months before our repeat trip to Zermatt this year. I won’t lie, it’s been extremely disappointing to spend nearly 2 weeks in one of the most expensive places in the world, and STILL not do the thing I came here to do 😅

But alas, here we are in Zermatt again! (and apparently not for the last time)

Even though we are slowly going bankrupt, it’s a gorgeous place to be in the summer with no shortage of amazing trails!

Can’t wait to share some of what we’ve been up to— my first little hikes since surgery 🤩
This is my 2nd summer back in Zermatt to climb the Matterhorn— and my 2nd summer NOT climbing the Matterhorn 😑

In 2023, a wicked snow storm blew through the night before my planned ascent and grounded all climbing parties… and then I had knee surgery less than 2 months before our repeat trip to Zermatt this year. I won’t lie, it’s been extremely disappointing to spend nearly 2 weeks in one of the most expensive places in the world, and STILL not do the thing I came here to do 😅

But alas, here we are in Zermatt again! (and apparently not for the last time)

Even though we are slowly going bankrupt, it’s a gorgeous place to be in the summer with no shortage of amazing trails!

Can’t wait to share some of what we’ve been up to— my first little hikes since surgery 🤩
This is my 2nd summer back in Zermatt to climb the Matterhorn— and my 2nd summer NOT climbing the Matterhorn 😑

In 2023, a wicked snow storm blew through the night before my planned ascent and grounded all climbing parties… and then I had knee surgery less than 2 months before our repeat trip to Zermatt this year. I won’t lie, it’s been extremely disappointing to spend nearly 2 weeks in one of the most expensive places in the world, and STILL not do the thing I came here to do 😅

But alas, here we are in Zermatt again! (and apparently not for the last time)

Even though we are slowly going bankrupt, it’s a gorgeous place to be in the summer with no shortage of amazing trails!

Can’t wait to share some of what we’ve been up to— my first little hikes since surgery 🤩
This is my 2nd summer back in Zermatt to climb the Matterhorn— and my 2nd summer NOT climbing the Matterhorn 😑

In 2023, a wicked snow storm blew through the night before my planned ascent and grounded all climbing parties… and then I had knee surgery less than 2 months before our repeat trip to Zermatt this year. I won’t lie, it’s been extremely disappointing to spend nearly 2 weeks in one of the most expensive places in the world, and STILL not do the thing I came here to do 😅

But alas, here we are in Zermatt again! (and apparently not for the last time)

Even though we are slowly going bankrupt, it’s a gorgeous place to be in the summer with no shortage of amazing trails!

Can’t wait to share some of what we’ve been up to— my first little hikes since surgery 🤩
This is my 2nd summer back in Zermatt to climb the Matterhorn— and my 2nd summer NOT climbing the Matterhorn 😑

In 2023, a wicked snow storm blew through the night before my planned ascent and grounded all climbing parties… and then I had knee surgery less than 2 months before our repeat trip to Zermatt this year. I won’t lie, it’s been extremely disappointing to spend nearly 2 weeks in one of the most expensive places in the world, and STILL not do the thing I came here to do 😅

But alas, here we are in Zermatt again! (and apparently not for the last time)

Even though we are slowly going bankrupt, it’s a gorgeous place to be in the summer with no shortage of amazing trails!

Can’t wait to share some of what we’ve been up to— my first little hikes since surgery 🤩
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
This is my 2nd summer back in Zermatt to climb the Matterhorn— and my 2nd summer NOT climbing the Matterhorn 😑 In 2023, a wicked snow storm blew through the night before my planned ascent and grounded all climbing parties… and then I had knee surgery less than 2 months before our repeat trip to Zermatt this year. I won’t lie, it’s been extremely disappointing to spend nearly 2 weeks in one of the most expensive places in the world, and STILL not do the thing I came here to do 😅 But alas, here we are in Zermatt again! (and apparently not for the last time) Even though we are slowly going bankrupt, it’s a gorgeous place to be in the summer with no shortage of amazing trails! Can’t wait to share some of what we’ve been up to— my first little hikes since surgery 🤩
7 days ago
View on Instagram |
4/5
we’ve spent the last several weeks in Switzerland and, in many ways, I couldn’t have chosen a better destination for post-knee-surgery recovery— where else in the world can you get views like THIS with 1hr of easy hiking?!

I’m not sure I’ll ever truly prefer the accessibility of the Alps to true backcountry… but there’s no denying that I couldn’t be outside any other way right now and it’s given me a whole new appreciation for the hundreds of gondolas, funiculars, and trains that connect non-hikers or mobility-impaired enthusiasts like myself to otherwise unreachable heights!

I’m enormously grateful for the opportunity to rehab my knee under legendary peaks rather than fluorescent indoor lights, so THANK YOU Switzerland 😍
we’ve spent the last several weeks in Switzerland and, in many ways, I couldn’t have chosen a better destination for post-knee-surgery recovery— where else in the world can you get views like THIS with 1hr of easy hiking?!

I’m not sure I’ll ever truly prefer the accessibility of the Alps to true backcountry… but there’s no denying that I couldn’t be outside any other way right now and it’s given me a whole new appreciation for the hundreds of gondolas, funiculars, and trains that connect non-hikers or mobility-impaired enthusiasts like myself to otherwise unreachable heights!

I’m enormously grateful for the opportunity to rehab my knee under legendary peaks rather than fluorescent indoor lights, so THANK YOU Switzerland 😍
we’ve spent the last several weeks in Switzerland and, in many ways, I couldn’t have chosen a better destination for post-knee-surgery recovery— where else in the world can you get views like THIS with 1hr of easy hiking?!

I’m not sure I’ll ever truly prefer the accessibility of the Alps to true backcountry… but there’s no denying that I couldn’t be outside any other way right now and it’s given me a whole new appreciation for the hundreds of gondolas, funiculars, and trains that connect non-hikers or mobility-impaired enthusiasts like myself to otherwise unreachable heights!

I’m enormously grateful for the opportunity to rehab my knee under legendary peaks rather than fluorescent indoor lights, so THANK YOU Switzerland 😍
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
we’ve spent the last several weeks in Switzerland and, in many ways, I couldn’t have chosen a better destination for post-knee-surgery recovery— where else in the world can you get views like THIS with 1hr of easy hiking?! I’m not sure I’ll ever truly prefer the accessibility of the Alps to true backcountry… but there’s no denying that I couldn’t be outside any other way right now and it’s given me a whole new appreciation for the hundreds of gondolas, funiculars, and trains that connect non-hikers or mobility-impaired enthusiasts like myself to otherwise unreachable heights! I’m enormously grateful for the opportunity to rehab my knee under legendary peaks rather than fluorescent indoor lights, so THANK YOU Switzerland 😍
2 weeks ago
View on Instagram |
5/5

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