More than half of the hikers we met in Babino Polje planned to skip this stage entirely with a transfer. Although it features a bit of road walking and lacks the dramatic scenery of some of the bigger mountain days, we still really enjoyed both the landscapes and the solitude through this quieter corner of Montenegro.
From the emerald shores of Hrid Lake (said to bring luck to those who swim in its chilly waters) to the expansive views across Prokletije National Park and a scenic finish beside Lake Plav, this is an undemanding and blissfully relaxed day on the trail.
This comprehensive guide to Day 8 of Peaks of the Balkans contains detailed section times, route recommendations, adventurous side trips, and heaps of insider tips— use it to plan your hike & then refer back on the trail so you always know what to expect!
>>> Read my Peaks of the Balkans hiking guide for the full 12-day adventure itinerary
Peaks of the Balkans: Day 8 overview
Stats are based on my Peaks of the Balkans adventure route, which follows the traditional route entirely today:
- trail time: 5hrs
- distance: 20.5km
- elevation: 710m gain / 1260m loss
Babino Polje to Hrid Lake (1.5hrs)
A shady trail ascends immediately behind Triangle Woodhouse, connecting onto a dirt road within about 15min. We found the actual road slightly offset from that shown on the map as it switchbacks up the hillside, but as long as you stay on the only obvious road climbing upwards, you’ll be right.
The route soon opens onto beautiful rolling mountain scenery and, about 45min from the start, arrives at Katun Bajrović, a small summer settlement named for the wealthy nobleman Bajro Redžematović. According to the sign here, Bajro was renowned for his generosity, donating much of the hay and other proceeds from his vast mountain meadows to local families who were unable to pay.
Ascending on a forested trail just beyond the katun, the final 300m to Hrid Lake steepens slightly. You’ll pass a small moss-covered pond immediately before arriving at the tree-lined emerald shores of Hrid Lake, one of Montenegro’s most beloved alpine lakes.
Believed to bring good luck in marriage to those willing to brave its chilly waters, Hrid Lake has long been woven into local folklore. Having just gotten married ourselves the previous year, it seemed foolish to pass up the opportunity for a lifetime of good luck!
The water is delightfully refreshing, and with a folded shoreline offering dozens of access points, the lake manages to feel peaceful and private even as other hikers arrive throughout the morning.
Hrid Lake to Cottage Gavazović (2hrs)
Make your way through a short boulder field along the left shoreline to reach a signed junction above the lake, and then continue another 10min uphill to a wooden shelter overlooking the mountains of Prokletije National Park.
Although signs indicate a direct trail to Plav from here, we’d recommend returning to the junction and following the wide gravel road downhill instead.
About 1.5km beyond the first shelter, turn left at a second wooden shelter, heading off the road and onto scenic trail that quickly emerges from the trees onto open slopes with even broader views across the surrounding mountains.
The trail descends steadily for around 5km, losing more than 800m of elevation and eventually transitioning onto a gravel road that zig-zags through flowered meadows and local farms. A series of switchbacks carry you all the way down to the Treskavička River, about 2hrs from the lake.
At a small wooden cabin, turn left off the dirt road and onto a grassy trail that crosses the river and a small tributary.
Ascending just a few minutes up the hillside on the opposite bank of the river on a cool, shady forest path, arrive to Cottage Gavazović, a charming little restaurant just alongside the trail with homemade cakes and juices that makes an excellent place for a snack break!
Cottage Gavazović to Plav (1.5hrs)
Beyond the cottage, the route climbs gently for a few minutes before joining a gravel road that descends gradually for the next 5km, opening up to beautiful views over Lake Plav, Visitor Peak, and the surrounding mountains.
A little over an hour from the river, emerge onto a paved road near the cemetery at the upper edge of town. From here, it’s another 20-30min into the centre of Plav, walking through lively streets filled with cafes and other trappings of local life.
After days spent in remote shepherd settlements and mountain guesthouses, Plav feels positively bustling! This is the most developed town along Peaks of the Balkans, and it makes an excellent place to restock snacks, withdraw cash, and enjoy a restaurant meal!
Night 8: Hostel Bear Hug
Owned by Emir, author of Diary of a Balkan Kid and one of the people whose advice helped shape several of the more ambitious side trips included in this itinerary, Hostel Bear Hug occupies a simple old house just steps from the shores of Lake Plav. It’s not the most luxurious stay, but the view is hard to beat!
We paid 40€ for a private room with shared bathroom, and dorm beds are also available downstairs. The accommodation itself is very basic, but the lakeside setting more than compensates. Without dinner or breakfast included, we’d recommend walking 5min into town for a giant wrap from Swiss Döner (around 5€) and a few beers from Voli, settling onto the patio at Bear Hug to watch the evening light over Lake Plav.
>>> Book a room at Hostel Bear Hug
For more information on what to expect in the guesthouses on Peaks of the Balkans, check out this post: Peaks of the Balkans guesthouses: where to stay & what to expect
Read more about Peaks of the Balkans
- start here >>> Peaks of the Balkans hiking guide & 12-day itinerary
- Day 1: Valbona to Çerem via Prosllopit Pass + Zla Kolata summit
- Day 2: Çerem to Dobërdol
- Day 3: Dobërdol to Gacaferi via Gjeravica summit
- Day 4: Gacaferi to Milishevc
- Day 5: Milishevc to Rekë e Allagës + Via Ferrata Shpellat
- Day 6: Rekë e Allagës to Drelaj via Hajla summit
- Day 7: Drelaj to Babino Polje
- Day 8: Babino Polje to Plav
- Day 9: Plav to Vusanje
- Day 10: Three Peaks Loop
- Day 11: Vusanje to Theth via Great Valley of Lakes + Maja Bojës summit
- Day 12: Theth to Valbona
- navigate confidently on & off the trail >>> Peaks of the Balkans GPS map
- essential gear >>> Peaks of the Balkans packing list
