The trail between Theth and Valbona is undoubtedly Albania’s most famous hike, linking the country’s two most beautiful mountain valleys via the spectacular Valbona Pass (1,795m). Before embarking on Peaks of the Balkans, we assumed this would be a highlight of the entire route— but this final stage didn’t even crack our top five.
After 200km spent wandering through remote valleys and quiet mountain passes, the popularity of Valbona Pass comes as a bit of a shock. The scenery is undeniably beautiful, but the crowds do detract somewhat from the wilderness experience that made so many of the previous days feel special. An early start is highly recommended to avoid the busiest and hottest part of the day, arriving into Valbona around lunchtime for some hard-earned celebratory drinks!
This comprehensive guide to Day 12 of Peaks of the Balkans contains detailed section times, route recommendations, adventurous side trips, and heaps of insider tips— use it to plan your hike & then refer back on the trail so you always know what to expect!
>>> Read my Peaks of the Balkans hiking guide for the full 12-day adventure itinerary
Peaks of the Balkans: Day 12 overview
- trail time: 5hrs
- distance: 16km
- elevation: 1040m gain / 920m loss
*Trail times reflect the time we spent hiking, excluding extended breaks where we removed our backpacks to eat lunch, swim in alpine lakes, or otherwise luxuriate along the trail. These figures are best used to understand realistic hiking times between major waypoints, but we definitely recommend building in 1-2hrs of additional daily leisure time to properly enjoy the route!
Theth to Valbona Pass (2hrs)
From Villa Gjeçaj, follow the main road uphill for about 5min before turning right onto an even rougher, rockier road that climbs towards the mountains.
Although vehicles can drive surprisingly far up the valley (and we saw an amazing number at 6am), a steep hiking trail branches off near Guesthouse Gjelaj around 25min (2km) into the ascent, which will get you up and away from the cars.
From the Theth side, the route climbs almost entirely through shady forest, gaining nearly 1000m up to the pass beneath a comfortable canopy of beech trees.
Unlike many of the previous days on this itinerary, views are relatively limited until the final approach to the pass, but the well-maintained trail makes for straightforward and enjoyable hiking.
After just 2hrs, emerge at Valbona Pass (1,795m), where the forest suddenly gives way to sweeping views across both valleys.
Looking right, a few tiny rocky summits rise in front of Maja Boshit, and we’d strongly recommend continuing a few minutes up one or both of these high vantage points for unobstructed views into the Valbona Valley.
Valbona Pass to Rragam (1.5hrs)
Most day hikers tackle this route in the opposite direction (Valbona to Theth), so expect a steady stream of oncoming traffic as you crest over Valbona Pass and begin descending into the valley. Even with an early start, we spent much of the morning exchanging greetings with hikers making their way up towards the pass.
Although the Theth Valley is undoubtedly gorgeous, I’m truly partial to Valbona. The peaks within this valley hold snow later into the season, lending the landscape a distinctly alpine feel, and unlike the ascent from Theth that winds almost entirely through shady forest, the descent into Valbona is far more exposed, with expansive views for most of the journey.
The trail initially drops steeply on rocky switchbacks, losing elevation quickly towards the valley floor. After about an hour, the gradient eases noticeably and the walking becomes far more relaxed, passing briefly through woodland before emerging once again onto open slopes overlooking the dramatic Valbona Valley.
Approximately 1.5hrs after leaving the pass (and 750m into the day’s 920m descent), the trail emerges onto a dirt road at a parking area in Rragam. It’s possible to hop into a taxi here and save yourself the final stretch of road walking, but seeing as this was our last day on Peaks of the Balkans, we felt compelled to close the loop on foot!
Rragam to Valbona (1-1.5hrs)
From Rragam, follow the road gradually downhill through Valbona Valley, losing another 200m beneath the dramatic peaks of the Accursed Mountains that you’ve spent the last two weeks exploring.
The exact length of this walk depends on your accommodation, as guesthouses are scattered throughout the valley. Although the road walking isn’t particularly exciting, the mountain backdrop remains spectacular right to the end— a fitting conclusion to one of Europe’s finest long-distance treks!
Night 12: Bujtina Arturi
Tucked just off the road a few metres from Guesthouse Demushi (our other top recommendation in Valbona), the charming family-run Bujtina Arturi offers four deluxe rooms in a newly constructed two-level cabin and a handful of simple rooms in the original house.
We stayed in one of the deluxe rooms (44€ including breakfast), complete with a private balcony entrance and ensuite bathroom, and after nearly two weeks on the trail, it felt wonderfully luxurious. Dinner is served in a separate dining room for 12€ per person and features generous home-cooked portions of traditional Albanian food, making this a fantastic place to celebrate finishing Peaks of the Balkans!
>>> Book a room at Bujtina Arturi on Booking.com
For more information on guesthouses, check out this post: Peaks of the Balkans guesthouses: what to expect & how to book (+ best 2026 guesthouses)
Read all of my Peaks of the Balkans posts
- start here >>> Peaks of the Balkans hiking guide & 12-day itinerary
- accommodation >>> best guesthouses on Peaks of the Balkans & what to expect
- Day 1: Valbona to Çerem via Prosllopit Pass + Zla Kolata summit
- Day 2: Çerem to Dobërdol
- Day 3: Dobërdol to Gacaferi via Gjeravica summit
- Day 4: Gacaferi to Milishevc via Zavoj Pass
- Day 5: Milishevc to Rekë e Allagës + Via Ferrata Shpellat
- Day 6: Rekë e Allagës to Drelaj via Hajla summit
- Day 7: Drelaj to Babino Polje
- Day 8: Babino Polje to Plav
- Day 9: Plav to Vusanje via Bora Peak
- Day 10: Three Peaks Loop, Prokletije National Park
- Day 11: Vusanje to Theth via Buni Jezercës + Maja Bojës summit
- Day 12: Theth to Valbona
- navigate confidently on & off the trail >>> Peaks of the Balkans GPS map
- essential gear >>> Peaks of the Balkans packing list
