• home
  • about me
  • latest
  • brooke beyond

  • destinations
    • WORLD MAP
    • Africa
      • Botswana
      • Morocco
      • Namibia
      • South Africa
      • Zambia
      • Zimbabwe
    • Asia
      • Cambodia
      • China
      • Indonesia
      • Laos
      • Thailand
      • Vietnam
    • Aus + NZ
      • Adelaide & South Australia
      • Brisbane & Queensland
      • Hobart & Tasmania
      • Melbourne & Victoria
      • Perth & Western Australia
      • Sydney & New South Wales
      • New Zealand
    • Europe
      • Austria
      • Czech Republic
      • France
      • Germany
      • Hungary
      • Iceland
      • Ireland
      • Italy
      • Netherlands
      • Poland
      • Slovenia
      • Spain
      • Switzerland
      • UK
    • Latin America
      • Mexico
        • all Mexico
        • Baja Peninsula
      • Argentina
      • Bolivia
      • Brazil
      • Chile
      • Colombia
      • Ecuador
      • Panama
      • Peru
    • USA
      • Arizona
      • California
      • Colorado
      • Hawaii
      • Idaho
      • Montana
      • Nevada
      • New Mexico
      • Oregon
      • Utah
      • Washington
      • Wyoming
  • hiking guides

brooke beyond

San Jose del Cabo Baja Mexico
Baja / Latin America / Mexico

Vanlife diaries #43: East Cape, San José del Cabo & Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur Mexico

January 4, 2022

Enjoying our time in Cabo Pulmo National Park so much last week (and missing it the moment we drove away), we ended up driving right back up to Baja’s East Cape at the start of this week and sacrificing time in the busy resort centres of San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas. It was the best decision we could have made and a great farewell to the Sea of Cortez, which has been our playground for the last month.

What we’ve been up to this week

Setting off from Cabo Pulmo National Park, our original plan was to drive a short distance inland to Santiago, drawn by the promise of hot springs and waterfalls.

We crossed the Tropic of Cancer around midday and gorged ourselves on ice cream, delighted to be off on another adventure, but as we continued our drive, it became increasingly clear that we’d neglected proper research—the camping options near the hot springs actually seemed pretty grim (expensive and with a creepy male owner who lurked around watching females change? No gracias).

Tropic of Cancer Baja Mexico
Tropic of Cancer Baja Mexico
Tropic of Cancer Baja Mexico

With growing apprehension, we blazed ahead anyway, but within a few minutes of turning onto the narrow sandy access road, we’d already had to reverse twice for oncoming traffic and nearly gotten ourselves stuck in loose sand along the perimeter. 

We’d just THAT morning aired our tires back up from our last sandy drive in the National Park, an ordeal that took over an hour with our compact air compressor, and neither of us was keen to deflate all over again just for a 10min drive. So that was that—Santiago was relegated to our growing list of “places for next time” and we were back to the drawing board!

Read more: HOW TO VISIT GUADALUPE CANYON OASIS HOT SPRINGS IN BAJA CALIFORNIA

vanlife Baja Mexico wild donkeys burros
vanlife Baja Mexico wild donkeys burros

La Fortuna & The East Cape, Baja California Sur

Thankfully, some friends we’d met in Cabo Pulmo had texted me coordinates of their next camping spot on the East Cape, and the promise of a beautiful sandy beach and free camping was all we needed to turn this show around and head back to the coast.

Had we made these plans earlier, we would have only needed to drive a rough, washboard dirt road (still manageable for most any vehicle) south out of Cabo Pulmo for about 1hr directly down the East Cape to reach any of the beautiful beaches around La Fortuna. 

Unfortunately for us, we’d already come far enough from the park that our best option was continuing south through San José del Cabo (where we’d be able to conduct a much-needed restock of food supplies, anyway) before returning north along the coastline. It was a very roundabout route to reach a spot geographically very close to where we’d just been, but as soon as we arrived to La Fortuna, none of that really seemed to matter.

East Cape Los Cabos beach Baja Mexico
Camping on Baja’s East Cape
East Cape Los Cabos beach Baja Mexico
Surfers at La Fortuna

Encompassing the coastline from Los Barriles to San José del Cabo, Baja’s East Cape is a wild & unspoilt paradise of sandy beaches and calm waters, something we’d certainly discovered from our time in Cabo Pulmo National Park. 

This southern stretch of the cape was, in terms of beaches, even more impressive and blissfully off the beaten path. Although a number of expensive-looking homes were under construction as we drove along Cabo Camino Este, the whole area still felt relatively undiscovered, only a few surfers and construction crews ambling about while we scoped out a sandy beachfront camping spot. 

We had the feeling that, within a few years, the East Cape might look very different, but for now, we watched a herd of cows playing in the low waves right on the beach and spent the night entirely alone under the stars.

Read more: THE ULTIMATE BAJA CAMPING GUIDE (+ 35 OF THE BEST VANLIFE & RV CAMPSITES!)

East Cape Los Cabos beach Baja Mexico
Empty beaches of the East Cape
East Cape Los Cabos beach Baja Mexico
East Cape Los Cabos beach Baja Mexico

San José del Cabo, Baja California Sur

The days passed easily in La Fortuna, swimming right out front of the van and laying in the sand with a great group of new friends, so it was with reluctance that we finally got back on the road and headed back to San José del Cabo. But this too brought plenty of excitement! 

We’d arrived into town on a Thursday, just in time for the weekly “Art Walk”, and the entire town was abuzz as food vendors, art galleries, and local artisans set up outdoor displays. Expecting crowds of drunk tourists in neon shirts, we were delighted to instead find (perhaps still crowds of tourists, but at least) a classier sort with little of the stereotypical “party Cabo” atmosphere. 

San Jose del Cabo Baja Mexico
Colourful streets of San Jose del Cabo
San Jose del Cabo Baja Mexico
Beautiful architecture in San Jose del Cabo

The cobbled streets and colourful flags were incredibly charming and we spent the entire day wandering around just soaking in the excitement before managing to score very challenging reservations to La Lupita, a taco spot that another pair of travellers had recommended to us as “the best tacos in the world”.

Although the prices were much higher than we were used to, the duck mole and braised scallop tacos were indeed among the best I’ve ever eaten. Upscale tacos at their very finest, and for 7 tacos and 2 margaritas, we weren’t even appalled by the $40USD bill.

Legendary tacos from La Lupita

Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur

For the weekend (and New Year’s Eve), we journey farther down the cape to Cabo San Lucas, where (to our great disappointment) all of the Bachelor Party and sterotypical-neon-Cabo shenanigans were in full swing. 

This is an absolutely gorgeous area, with amazing rock arches towering over the ocean and dozens of beautiful beaches, but the atmosphere and crowds of drunken tourists greatly detract from what would otherwise be another highly recommended spot in Baja.

Thankfully, we managed to find some free beachfront camping (even in Cabo, there’s no shortage!) and were able to ring in the New Year exactly how we wanted to—watching massive fireworks explode along the beach in every direction, right in front of our van.

el arco de cabo san lucas under white and blue sky
Los Arcos at “land’s end” in Cabo San Jose

Where we stayed this week

This week proved to be another fantastic assortment of free camping, mostly on public beaches but also on the occasional cobbled laneway.

  • Boondocking on Playa La Fortuna on the East Cape, BCS (free; 28-29 Dec)
  • Street parking in the Art District of San Jose del Cabo, BCS (free; 30 Dec)
  • Boondocking on Playa San Carlos outside of San Jose del Cabo, BCS (free; 31 Dec – 1 Jan)
  • Boondocking at La Pastora in Todos Santos, BCS (free; 2-6 Jan)
TAGS:vanlifevanlife bajavanlife diariesvanlife mexico
0 Comments
Share
brooke brisbine

I've spent the last decade exploring the world— everything from solo trekking in the Andes to overlanding in Zambia, all while completing a PhD in Biomechanics, teaching at a university & securing permanent residency in Australia. In 2020, I finally fulfilled my dream of becoming a full-time nomad! Whether it’s vanlife in Mexico, scuba diving in the Galápagos, ticking off incredible US National Parks, or climbing in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

Leave a Comment Cancel Comment

You May Also Like

November 22, 2019

Huayhuash Circuit (day 6): Cuyoc & Paso San Antonio to Laguna Juraucocha

December 2, 2019

Solo Huayhuash Circuit packing list: What to pack for 10 days without a guide

October 22, 2019

DIY Inca ruins walking tour: Visiting Tambomachay, Puka Pukara, Q’enqo & Sacsahuamán without a guide

hi, I’m brooke!

I've spent the last decade exploring the world— everything from solo trekking in the Andes to overlanding in Zambia, all while completing a PhD in Biomechanics. In 2020, I finally fulfilled my dream of becoming a full-time nomad! Whether it’s vanlife in Mexico, scuba diving in the Galápagos, ticking off incredible US National Parks, or climbing in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

read my story
currently exploring

currently exploring

mexico

img

travel resources

flights ✈️ Skyscanner

hotels 🏨 booking.com

adventure gear 🥾 REI

travel essentials 📸 Amazon

travel guides

hiking guides

vanlife resources

moving to australia

trip itineraries

recent posts

  • Alta Via 4 Italian Dolomites hiking via ferrata guide

    Alta Via 4 (days 5 & 6): Rifugio San Marco to Rifugio Antelao to Pieve di Cadore

    June 5, 2023
  • Alta Via 4 Italian Dolomites hiking via ferrata guide

    Alta Via 4 (day 4): Rifugio Vandelli to Rifugio San Marco + Via Ferrata Giro de Sorapis

    June 5, 2023
  • Alta Via 4 Italian Dolomites hiking via ferrata guide

    Alta Via 4 (day 3): Rifugio Fonda Savio to Rifugio Vandelli

    June 5, 2023
  • Alta Via 4 Italian Dolomites hiking via ferrata guide

    Alta Via 4 (day 2): Rifugio Locatelli Tre Cime to Rifugio Fonda Savio + Via Ferrata Merlone

    June 5, 2023
  • Alta Via 4 Italian Dolomites hiking via ferrata guide

    Alta Via 4 (day 1): Rifugio Tre Scarperi to Locatelli Tre Cime + Via Ferrata Torre di Toblin & Innerkofler

    June 5, 2023

…

travel beyond the ordinary

Explore my travel guides, custom itineraries & blog posts with an interactive world map ✨

all destinations

…

  • home
  • about me
  • latest
  • destinations
  • hiking guides
  • moving to Australia
  • vanlife resources
  • contact

COPYRIGHT © 2022 BROOKE BEYOND. TRAVEL BEYOND THE ORDINARY. Site Powered by Pix & Hue.