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brooke beyond

Africa / South Africa

Driving the Garden Route Day 6: Exploring Hermanus & Fernkloof Nature Reserve

25 December 2017

Last Updated on 7 April 2026

After a delightful breakfast at our sweet little B&B in Hermanus this morning, we hustle out the door to enjoy more of the incredible Fernkloof Nature Reserve and its impressive beachside Cliff Path. After our walk along the trail last night, we were absolutely convinced that we needed to spend a bit of time today in Hermanus so we could explore more of the stunning coastline before moving on, so we shuffle our plans a bit and decide to stay in town until afternoon. Our first activity is just returning to the Cliff Path and strolling along beside the sea, admiring the rugged rocks and looming mountains.

We pop into town for a bit of a shop as well, wandering around the cute little markets (surprisingly open on Christmas Eve), and then enjoy a bit of gelato while looking out over the ocean. The sun is out, the surf is pumping, and Christmas is here, so life is feeling pretty phenomenal this morning. After a touch more browsing around the little boutiques, we finally have to bid the stunning Hermanus goodbye and continue onwards for the day, horribly sad to be leaving before we are ready, but also excited to see the Cape Winelands this evening.

Actually, we only make it about 10 minutes down the road before we stop for lunch at La Vierge, a winery in the beautiful Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Over several glasses of red and an incredibly large cheese board, mum and I admire the incredible landscape and start to get even more excited for the wine country we’ll be spending the next few days in. The ultimate consensus is that it’s rather mediocre wine, but our bird’s-eye-view of the rolling vineyards more than makes up for it. Finally, it’s time for us to truly leave Hermanus, already later than our updated plan for the day, so we hop into the car and zip off towards the coast.

On the recommendation of Kloos, the owner of our B&B, we decide to drive the long route around to Stellenbosch via Gordon’s Bay on the scenic R44. No exaggeration, it may be the most phenomenal scenery we’ve seen on the whole trip. Every two seconds, I am asking mum to pull over on the side of the road so I can snap some photos looking back at the beach or over at the mountains, and thankfully she is more than happy to oblige because she can’t really look out the window herself while driving. Every time we stop for photos, we are both outside going crazy over the scenery.

Finally leaving the coast just after Gordon’s Bay, we curve inland for about 30 minutes to reach Stellenbosch, the wine capital of Africa (I just made that up, but I feel like it’s true). We arrive at our Airbnb and have a little hiccup checking in, but there’s a cat at the property, so all is quickly forgotten. My own fur baby has travelled down to Melbourne (with Callum, obviously) for Christmas and I say hello to him briefly on the  phone, not mentioning that I have a little kitty keeping me company here because I don’t want him to be jealous, before we set off in search of dinner. Unsurprisingly, not much is open at 6pm on Christmas Eve (on a Sunday, no less), so we end up with frozen pizza, but absolutely no complaints here because it’s my favourite brand and feels like quite the luxury.

After devouring our pizza and polishing off the better part of 2 wine bottles, we nip off to bed, new cat friend in tow, in preparation for the early morning drive into Cape Town tomrrow. On the bright side, we will be staying in Stellenbosch for the next few nights, so this is the first time in a long time that we won’t need to pack up in the morning, but no one is excited about the 6am wake up tomorrow (especially considering that it is rapidly approaching midnight as I type this). Merry Christmas to all (from South Africa), and to all a goodnight!

Read more about our road-trip along the Garden Route:

DRIVING THE GARDEN ROUTE DAY 1: ADDO ELEPHANT NATIONAL PARK

DRIVING THE GARDEN ROUTE DAY 2: VISITING BIG CATS AT TENIKWA WILDLIFE REHABILITATION CENTRE

DRIVING THE GARDEN ROUTE DAY 3: HIKING THROUGH ROBBERG NATURE RESERVE

DRIVING THE GARDEN ROUTE DAY 4: WINE TASTING & OSTRICHES IN OUDTSHOORN

DRIVING THE GARDEN ROUTE DAY 5: SEASIDE IN MOSSEL BAY & HERMANUS

THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO DRIVING SOUTH AFRICA’S GARDEN ROUTE

TAGS:garden routeroad trips
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brooke beyond

Hey, I'm Brooke and I'm obsessed with getting off the beaten path, exploring backcountry gems & travelling beyond the ordinary! I left Australia 6 years ago after finishing a PhD in Biomechanics & have been travelling the world full-time ever since (joined by my husband/climbing partner, James). Whether it’s road-tripping through Mexico, climbing alpine peaks in the Andes, scuba diving in the Red Sea, or tackling epic via ferrata in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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hi, I’m brooke!

I'm obsessed with getting off the beaten path, exploring backcountry gems & travelling beyond the ordinary! I left Australia 6 years ago after finishing a PhD in Biomechanics & have been travelling the world full-time ever since (now joined by my husband/climbing partner, James). I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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recent posts

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    Complete Lofoten winter packing list: what to wear for hiking in Arctic Norway

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@brookebeyond_
brooke ✨travel & mountain gal

@brookebeyond_

  • I always thought I was a summer gal… but we spent 3 months in Scandinavia this winter and it was, without question, one of the BEST trips I’ve done in nearly 6 years of full-time travel.

Turns out, winter is MAGICAL!!! 

We hiked popular summits without a single other person, saw Northern Lights on more than 30 different nights, made friends with local reindeer (then ate their friends & family for dinner, very sorry), witnessed midday sunsets and complete polar night, and spent literally hundreds of hours in the sauna. 

It’s hard to even describe how amazing this trip was, but we’re already booked to go back to Norway & Sweden for 3 months next winter to do it all over again 😅

—
#norway #lofoten #sweden #winterinnorway
  • Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
  • 6 years of full-time travel and still not smart enough to correctly count 90 days within a 180-day period 😅

(also an unsponsored ad for 🔗 schengensimple.com which we downloaded PROMPTLY to avoid any future miscalculations)

This story is definitely part of a larger conversation about passport privilege— because I’m sure if we were holding a different country’s passport, we would have had a VASTLY different experience with this accidental overstay. All in all, I feel insanely fortunate to have only gotten a fine and I’m eager not to test the system a 2nd time 😳

—
#schengen #eu #travelstories #travelmistakes @schengen_simple
  • Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
  • sincerest apologies to the people of Norway for my pronunciation 😂
.
ABOUT THE FLÅM WINTER MAGIC PACKAGE ☃️✨
.
Several local companies have teamed up to offer the perfect bundle of winter activities: 
- RIB boat adventure with @fjordsafari 
- 1.5hr slot in the floating @fjordsauna 
- Viking Plank dinner + beer pairing at @aegirbrewco 
.
It was the perfect way to experience charming little Flåm and its beautiful fjord setting in a single day— easily accessible by scenic train from Bergen or Oslo!
.
Contact @fjordsafari to book
—
#flåm #norway #winterinnorway #flåmsbana #wintermagic
  • A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
  • magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
  • With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
  • a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
follow @brookebeyond_

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all destinations

  • I always thought I was a summer gal… but we spent 3 months in Scandinavia this winter and it was, without question, one of the BEST trips I’ve done in nearly 6 years of full-time travel.

Turns out, winter is MAGICAL!!! 

We hiked popular summits without a single other person, saw Northern Lights on more than 30 different nights, made friends with local reindeer (then ate their friends & family for dinner, very sorry), witnessed midday sunsets and complete polar night, and spent literally hundreds of hours in the sauna. 

It’s hard to even describe how amazing this trip was, but we’re already booked to go back to Norway & Sweden for 3 months next winter to do it all over again 😅

—
#norway #lofoten #sweden #winterinnorway
  • Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
  • 6 years of full-time travel and still not smart enough to correctly count 90 days within a 180-day period 😅

(also an unsponsored ad for 🔗 schengensimple.com which we downloaded PROMPTLY to avoid any future miscalculations)

This story is definitely part of a larger conversation about passport privilege— because I’m sure if we were holding a different country’s passport, we would have had a VASTLY different experience with this accidental overstay. All in all, I feel insanely fortunate to have only gotten a fine and I’m eager not to test the system a 2nd time 😳

—
#schengen #eu #travelstories #travelmistakes @schengen_simple
  • Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
  • sincerest apologies to the people of Norway for my pronunciation 😂
.
ABOUT THE FLÅM WINTER MAGIC PACKAGE ☃️✨
.
Several local companies have teamed up to offer the perfect bundle of winter activities: 
- RIB boat adventure with @fjordsafari 
- 1.5hr slot in the floating @fjordsauna 
- Viking Plank dinner + beer pairing at @aegirbrewco 
.
It was the perfect way to experience charming little Flåm and its beautiful fjord setting in a single day— easily accessible by scenic train from Bergen or Oslo!
.
Contact @fjordsafari to book
—
#flåm #norway #winterinnorway #flåmsbana #wintermagic
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
I always thought I was a summer gal… but we spent 3 months in Scandinavia this winter and it was, without question, one of the BEST trips I’ve done in nearly 6 years of full-time travel. Turns out, winter is MAGICAL!!! We hiked popular summits without a single other person, saw Northern Lights on more than 30 different nights, made friends with local reindeer (then ate their friends & family for dinner, very sorry), witnessed midday sunsets and complete polar night, and spent literally hundreds of hours in the sauna. It’s hard to even describe how amazing this trip was, but we’re already booked to go back to Norway & Sweden for 3 months next winter to do it all over again 😅 — #norway #lofoten #sweden #winterinnorway
1 week ago
View on Instagram |
1/5
Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰 Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️ — #iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
1 week ago
View on Instagram |
2/5
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
6 years of full-time travel and still not smart enough to correctly count 90 days within a 180-day period 😅 (also an unsponsored ad for 🔗 schengensimple.com which we downloaded PROMPTLY to avoid any future miscalculations) This story is definitely part of a larger conversation about passport privilege— because I’m sure if we were holding a different country’s passport, we would have had a VASTLY different experience with this accidental overstay. All in all, I feel insanely fortunate to have only gotten a fine and I’m eager not to test the system a 2nd time 😳 — #schengen #eu #travelstories #travelmistakes @schengen_simple
2 weeks ago
View on Instagram |
3/5
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨ We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️ Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with! — #finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
2 weeks ago
View on Instagram |
4/5
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
sincerest apologies to the people of Norway for my pronunciation 😂 . ABOUT THE FLÅM WINTER MAGIC PACKAGE ☃️✨ . Several local companies have teamed up to offer the perfect bundle of winter activities: - RIB boat adventure with @fjordsafari - 1.5hr slot in the floating @fjordsauna - Viking Plank dinner + beer pairing at @aegirbrewco . It was the perfect way to experience charming little Flåm and its beautiful fjord setting in a single day— easily accessible by scenic train from Bergen or Oslo! . Contact @fjordsafari to book — #flåm #norway #winterinnorway #flåmsbana #wintermagic
2 weeks ago
View on Instagram |
5/5

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