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brooke beyond

Europe / Iceland

Iceland Roadtrip Day 3: Fjaðrárgljúfur, Svartifoss & Svínafellsjökull

3 December 2016

Last Updated on 17 April 2026

Day 3 is really only our second day of exploring, so we make sure we cram in as much as possible. Unfortunately, the weather has other plans, so by midday, exploring outside is like taking a shower with your clothes on. We do our best not to be slowed down, because we certainly aren’t stopping.

Today’s drive takes us from Kirkjubæjarklaustur east to Hof, about 90km along Route 1. I didn’t mark too many things on the map for us today, so I do some quick googling in the car (thanks to the portable wifi we were given for free at the car rental place!!). Unsurprisingly, there are more things than we could ever hope to see during daylight hours along this short stretch of the country.

Fjaðrárgljúfur

A short drive from our hotel in Kirkjubæjarklaustur, our first stop today is a canyon that is surprisingly green considering all the black rock we’ve been seeing that looks like something out of a space movie. We are not so lucky with the weather today, so it’s drizzling on and off while we hike around to various points along the canyon to snap photos. I don’t know if it isn’t a popular spot or if the weather has put people off, but we only see about 3 other people the whole time we are there! A perfect opportunity to slip past the safety barriers and take some photos. Cal won’t let me do anything too daring, because he thinks I have the coordination of a spider on rollerskates, so I settle for photographing him.



Foss á Siðu

Just a short drive along Route 1 back to the east, we stop for a quick snap of yet another waterfall and a very glacial looking river.


Svartifoss

And this makes our third waterfall of the day. About a half hour from reaching our hotel in Hof, we stop for a quick hike out to another waterfall in Vatnajökull National Park. From the car, we walk 1.5km each way to see the unusual falls surrounded by strange hexagon lava columns. It almost doesn’t look real. Clearly my camera is upset by the moisture in the air, so it’s taken rather blurry photos, but in person it is just stunning.



Svínafellsjökull

Also in Vatnajökull National Park, just a few minutes from Svartifoss, we get back on the main road and then turn left onto a gravel road that takes us almost right up to Svínafellsjökull glacier. By this point, it’s approaching sunset and the rain is in full swing, so we don’t hike along the length of the glacier like we want to, but we do enjoy it plenty from 20 minute of sprinting around, frantically taking photos in the downpour.  It is still so worth it. The glacier is incredibly blue, quite similar to ones I’ve seen in Patagonia, but far better than the one we saw recently in New Zealand. It appears I’ve coordinated my outfit with Mother Nature today. Callum almost didn’t want to get out of the car because of the rain, but he’s running around taking photos like mad as soon as he sees the glacier. A fabulous end to another great day in Iceland.


Read more about our adventures in Iceland

ICELAND ROADTRIP DAYS 1 & 2: SKÓGAFOSS, SÓLHEIMASANDUR & VÍK

ICELAND ROADTRIP DAY 4: VATNAJÖKULL NATIONAL PARK & THE GLACIER LAGOONS

ICELAND ROADTRIP DAY 5: RIDING ICELANDIC HORSES & EXPLORING BLACK SAND BEACH

ICELAND ROADTRIP DAY 6: GOLDEN CIRCLE

ICELAND ROADTRIP DAY 7: SNOWMOBILING ON LANGJÖKULL GLACIER

ICELAND ROADTRIP DAY 8: BLUE LAGOON

Check out these posts for details on planning your own trip

LAND OF FIRE & ICE: A GUIDE TO PLANNING THE ULTIMATE ICELAND TRIP

A PERFECT 8-DAY ICELAND ROAD TRIP ITINERARY

And read my article on We Are Travel Girls for more inspiration

ROAD TRIP INSPIRATION: 10 MUST-SEE PLACES IN SOUTHERN ICELAND

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brooke beyond

Hey, I'm Brooke and I'm obsessed with getting off the beaten path, exploring backcountry gems & travelling beyond the ordinary! I left Australia 6 years ago after finishing a PhD in Biomechanics & have been travelling the world full-time ever since (joined by my husband/climbing partner, James). Whether it’s road-tripping through Mexico, climbing alpine peaks in the Andes, scuba diving in the Red Sea, or tackling epic via ferrata in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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hi, I’m brooke!

I'm obsessed with getting off the beaten path, exploring backcountry gems & travelling beyond the ordinary! I left Australia 6 years ago after finishing a PhD in Biomechanics & have been travelling the world full-time ever since (now joined by my husband/climbing partner, James). I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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recent posts

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    Complete Lofoten winter packing list: what to wear for hiking in Arctic Norway

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@brookebeyond_
brooke ✨travel & mountain gal

@brookebeyond_

  • I always thought I was a summer gal… but we spent 3 months in Scandinavia this winter and it was, without question, one of the BEST trips I’ve done in nearly 6 years of full-time travel.

Turns out, winter is MAGICAL!!! 

We hiked popular summits without a single other person, saw Northern Lights on more than 30 different nights, made friends with local reindeer (then ate their friends & family for dinner, very sorry), witnessed midday sunsets and complete polar night, and spent literally hundreds of hours in the sauna. 

It’s hard to even describe how amazing this trip was, but we’re already booked to go back to Norway & Sweden for 3 months next winter to do it all over again 😅

—
#norway #lofoten #sweden #winterinnorway
  • Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
  • 6 years of full-time travel and still not smart enough to correctly count 90 days within a 180-day period 😅

(also an unsponsored ad for 🔗 schengensimple.com which we downloaded PROMPTLY to avoid any future miscalculations)

This story is definitely part of a larger conversation about passport privilege— because I’m sure if we were holding a different country’s passport, we would have had a VASTLY different experience with this accidental overstay. All in all, I feel insanely fortunate to have only gotten a fine and I’m eager not to test the system a 2nd time 😳

—
#schengen #eu #travelstories #travelmistakes @schengen_simple
  • Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
  • sincerest apologies to the people of Norway for my pronunciation 😂
.
ABOUT THE FLÅM WINTER MAGIC PACKAGE ☃️✨
.
Several local companies have teamed up to offer the perfect bundle of winter activities: 
- RIB boat adventure with @fjordsafari 
- 1.5hr slot in the floating @fjordsauna 
- Viking Plank dinner + beer pairing at @aegirbrewco 
.
It was the perfect way to experience charming little Flåm and its beautiful fjord setting in a single day— easily accessible by scenic train from Bergen or Oslo!
.
Contact @fjordsafari to book
—
#flåm #norway #winterinnorway #flåmsbana #wintermagic
  • A few snapshots from one of our most unique adventures: a 4-day dogsledding trip through Sámi country (Sápmi) in Northern Sweden ❄️

For thousands of years, dogsledding has been an essential form of Arctic transport for Indigenous communities, used to travel, hunt, and survive in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Huskies are bred specifically for this environment, capable of running for hours across frozen landscapes + hauling several hundred kilos as a team.

To experience it for ourselves, we took a 15hr train from Stockholm to Kiruna, drove 2hrs deep into the wilderness, and then caught a snowmobile the final kilometres to reach a remote kennel with about 50 dogs. Our first day was spent learning the basics: how to harness the huskies, attach them to the sled, and steer + brake properly. 

And then, we set off into the wilderness with our team of 6 dogs, travelling through snowy forests + across frozen lakes. 

James + I shared the sled, taking turns driving while the other sat bundled up inside, eyelashes freezing into icicles in the -30°C (-22°F) chill for hours at a time.

It was unbelievably remote, the conditions were challenging, and the cold was brutal, but through it all, we formed a real bond with our team— particularly surprising given that I’m usually very scared of dogs (pictured several times here is my beloved Reisling, the best doggie 🐕🖤)

It was a surprising + unexpected adventure, but such a special way to experience wild + beautiful Sápmi*

*we learned that Sápmi is the traditional + often preferred term (over “Lapland”) for the region of northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia inhabited by the Indigenous Sámi people

—
#sweden #kiruna #dogsledding #sápmi #lapland
  • magical winter lighting delivering midday sunrises and northern lights before dinner ✨ 

—
#lofoten #winter #norway #northernlights #polarnight
  • With sufficient outdoor experience, sound judgement, and reasonable conditions, these 10 hikes are an excellent choice for safe winter hiking in Lofoten!

We personally completed all of these hikes in January 2026 with just microspikes + trekking poles (and no other technical climbing equipment), though it should be noted that conditions vary winter to winter— and even week to week. In the event of heavy snowfall, some trails may become impassable without snowshoes or simply unsafe altogether.

**It should ALSO go without saying that you are responsible for yourself in the outdoors; this list is based on our own personal experience and must be interpreted within the bounds of your own experience and current winter conditions.

For more on winter hiking safety and details on these 10 amazing winter hikes, check out my post 🔗 brookebeyond.com/lofoten-winter-hiking
  • a collection of some mind-blowing aurora moments from our 5 weeks in Norway 🤯 

*watch the videos with sound to hear me & @flyingcrepes screaming like it’s our first day on earth lol

—
#norway #northernlights #aurora #northernlightsphotos
follow @brookebeyond_

travel beyond the ordinary

Explore my travel guides, custom itineraries & blog posts with an interactive world map ✨

all destinations

  • I always thought I was a summer gal… but we spent 3 months in Scandinavia this winter and it was, without question, one of the BEST trips I’ve done in nearly 6 years of full-time travel.

Turns out, winter is MAGICAL!!! 

We hiked popular summits without a single other person, saw Northern Lights on more than 30 different nights, made friends with local reindeer (then ate their friends & family for dinner, very sorry), witnessed midday sunsets and complete polar night, and spent literally hundreds of hours in the sauna. 

It’s hard to even describe how amazing this trip was, but we’re already booked to go back to Norway & Sweden for 3 months next winter to do it all over again 😅

—
#norway #lofoten #sweden #winterinnorway
  • Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
  • 6 years of full-time travel and still not smart enough to correctly count 90 days within a 180-day period 😅

(also an unsponsored ad for 🔗 schengensimple.com which we downloaded PROMPTLY to avoid any future miscalculations)

This story is definitely part of a larger conversation about passport privilege— because I’m sure if we were holding a different country’s passport, we would have had a VASTLY different experience with this accidental overstay. All in all, I feel insanely fortunate to have only gotten a fine and I’m eager not to test the system a 2nd time 😳

—
#schengen #eu #travelstories #travelmistakes @schengen_simple
  • Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
  • sincerest apologies to the people of Norway for my pronunciation 😂
.
ABOUT THE FLÅM WINTER MAGIC PACKAGE ☃️✨
.
Several local companies have teamed up to offer the perfect bundle of winter activities: 
- RIB boat adventure with @fjordsafari 
- 1.5hr slot in the floating @fjordsauna 
- Viking Plank dinner + beer pairing at @aegirbrewco 
.
It was the perfect way to experience charming little Flåm and its beautiful fjord setting in a single day— easily accessible by scenic train from Bergen or Oslo!
.
Contact @fjordsafari to book
—
#flåm #norway #winterinnorway #flåmsbana #wintermagic
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
I always thought I was a summer gal… but we spent 3 months in Scandinavia this winter and it was, without question, one of the BEST trips I’ve done in nearly 6 years of full-time travel. Turns out, winter is MAGICAL!!! We hiked popular summits without a single other person, saw Northern Lights on more than 30 different nights, made friends with local reindeer (then ate their friends & family for dinner, very sorry), witnessed midday sunsets and complete polar night, and spent literally hundreds of hours in the sauna. It’s hard to even describe how amazing this trip was, but we’re already booked to go back to Norway & Sweden for 3 months next winter to do it all over again 😅 — #norway #lofoten #sweden #winterinnorway
1 week ago
View on Instagram |
1/5
Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰

Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️

—
#iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
Over a year since I’ve been able to climb in ANY capacity (since my very dramatic knee surgery last April), so I can’t tell you how sweet it was to go ice climbing in Sweden & Finland this winter. Like an enormous leap back to myself 🥰 Not setting any speed records or impressing anyone with my technique lol but just genuinely happy to be able to move my body again, to be outside, to spend even a few minutes focused on something other than the pain. Grateful for the progress I’ve made & hopefully for the progress still to come— we’ve got some big goals this year, an ice wall is only the beginning 🏔️⛏️ — #iceclimbing #finland #finnishlapland #pyhä
1 week ago
View on Instagram |
2/5
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
6 years of full-time travel and still not smart enough to correctly count 90 days within a 180-day period 😅 (also an unsponsored ad for 🔗 schengensimple.com which we downloaded PROMPTLY to avoid any future miscalculations) This story is definitely part of a larger conversation about passport privilege— because I’m sure if we were holding a different country’s passport, we would have had a VASTLY different experience with this accidental overstay. All in all, I feel insanely fortunate to have only gotten a fine and I’m eager not to test the system a 2nd time 😳 — #schengen #eu #travelstories #travelmistakes @schengen_simple
2 weeks ago
View on Instagram |
3/5
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨

We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️

Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with!

—
#finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
Finland photo dump 🇫🇮✨ We spent 5 weeks in Finland as part of our Nordic adventure this winter, and what a JOY it was to experience the beautiful north as it transitioned from -30C days where our eyelashes froze… all the way to the very beginnings of spring 🌸☀️ Thanks for all the sweet memories, the auroras, the moments of sisu, the tasty buns, and the friends we got to share it with! — #finland #finnishlapland #lapland #winterinfinland
2 weeks ago
View on Instagram |
4/5
@brookebeyond_
@brookebeyond_
•
Follow
sincerest apologies to the people of Norway for my pronunciation 😂 . ABOUT THE FLÅM WINTER MAGIC PACKAGE ☃️✨ . Several local companies have teamed up to offer the perfect bundle of winter activities: - RIB boat adventure with @fjordsafari - 1.5hr slot in the floating @fjordsauna - Viking Plank dinner + beer pairing at @aegirbrewco . It was the perfect way to experience charming little Flåm and its beautiful fjord setting in a single day— easily accessible by scenic train from Bergen or Oslo! . Contact @fjordsafari to book — #flåm #norway #winterinnorway #flåmsbana #wintermagic
2 weeks ago
View on Instagram |
5/5

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